TDC Sensor Replacement (with pictures!) - Page 21 - Renault Forums :: Independent Renault forum

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post #101 of 308 (permalink) Old 30th December 2007
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Thumbs up What a thread!

Now that's what I call a bloody good thread. Started 02/09/06 & still going. So to add my two-penneth. My 2001 1.4 Kangoo Helios started with the bad starting problem, (bought new, now 55,000 mls. ) at around 30,000 & I'd heard about this TDC sensor. Managed to locate it (just) no way can I get a finger on it let alone a spanner. So I blasted it with compressed air. Never had a problem since.
(oooer, that's torn it) The Kangoo might be a box on wheels, but it's one of the most practical motors I've had, & I've had a fair few.
Cheers
BeeJay
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post #102 of 308 (permalink) Old 3rd January 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scouser-07 View Post
hi

i have just taken out the tdc sensor and cleaned it with a wire brush, wd40 and a cloth and put it back on but still i cant get the scenic started

any ideas???

Could be problems other than sensors..ur starter motor, battery..

And check the other sensors...somebody pointed out there's another sensor at the camshaft area apart from the TDC 's crankshaft..

Another sensor is at the gearbox.. which is called gearbox speed sensor.

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post #103 of 308 (permalink) Old 3rd January 2008
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Here's the difference between the new type of Renault's TDC sensor and the old one..

New


Expensive shunt cable


Old one just like you guys'


After conversion, the sensor only cost 10 here while the shunt cable is 30..yes you heard it right, I hd no idea why the shunt cable cost so much more than the sensor itself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hypermount
Top Dead Center sensor is also known as Crankshaft Position sensor, Crank Angle sensor, Magnetic Speed sensor. It's known in Proton inventory as Engine Speed sensor.


A video on TDC aka Crankshaft Position sensor. Our type of sensor is inductive type.
YouTube - Crankshaft position sensor

Symptoms of problems related to TDC sensor.

1. Hard to start problem especially in the morning. Sometimes need many turns then can only start.

2. Second gear jerking at low RPM. ( A minor symptom that will lead to more serious hard starting No.1 and stalling No.3)

3. The engine will suddenly stall at traffic lights. Needs many turns to restart the engine.


The causes of the Problem
1. Small metal filings from the flywheel/clutch area will stick to the magnetic tip of the sensor and corrupt the signal.

2. The bleeder screw is directly above the sensor. The coolant from the bleeder could contaminate the sensor area which does not seal against the hole. After removing the sensor, you could actually see the rusty coloured flywheel/sensing teeth while peeking into the rectangular hole.

3. Loose connection of the sensor's wire socket.

How to solve the Problem
1. Claim for a new sensor from Proton if your car is still under warranty,

else

2. Clean the sensor.


How to locate, remove and clean the sensor.


Firstly, need to remove the stock airbox. A step by step instruction on how to remove it is shown in the link. The area we're going to work on is between the engine and battery.

Proton Savvy Owner Club :: Log in


Tools needed, a ratchet, an extension bar, 10mm socket to remove the bolts. A pocket magnet pickup comes in handy to insert the bolts in such a lack of space engine bay.



Remove the 2 big white clips fastening the small and big coolant hoses. Try locate the sensor which is under the coolant pipe and thermostat housing. Remove battery for easier access (optional).



Remove the metal bracket that's holding a wiring loom which directly obstruct the sensor. The bracket is bolted on the back of the engine block using 1 bolt.



You can pull the wire loom to work on the sensor's two bolts. Use and extention to unscrew the bolts.





Clean the sensor, especially on the magnetic tip with a clean cloth.



The rusty colour flywheel inside the hole.






How to install the new type of TDC sensor

New TDC sensor with Shunt Cable package. Pictures were contributed by fhartzli from Savoc NRU. Thanks bro!




Remove and unsheath the TDC sensor wires.


Cut and strip the wires of its insulator.


Join the two pairs of wires, yellow to yellow and green to pink. Insert the protective tubes that come with the shunt cable package.


Wrap with insulator tapes. Then sheath the wires back with the corrugated tubes. Done and it's that easy.
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post #104 of 308 (permalink) Old 14th January 2008
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Just to give my input on cleaning my TDC sensor, which is so damn rusty, as is the sensing wheel. I guess theres been a coolant leak previously.

my sensor:



inside.. yikes

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post #105 of 308 (permalink) Old 18th January 2008
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Thumbs up

just thought i'd put my bit in, top how to thread

i changed this on the friends motor and was a doddle, made simpler by the excellent contributions to the thread. you lot made it easier.

alas it didn't fix her problem, but at least she wont be having the tdc fault any time soon
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