Renault Laguna II - Interiors - TomTom Go permanent install in Laguna II with 6 disc in-dash CD - Renault Forums :: Independent Renault forum

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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 30th December 2005 Thread Starter
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Renault Laguna II - Interiors - TomTom Go permanent install in Laguna II with 6 disc in-dash CD

First of all, apologies for not taking pictures during the install. It doesn't make sense to take the whole thing to bits just to take some photos.

These instructions are to install the TomTom GO "Permanent Docking Kit" in a post 2005 facelift Laguna II. They may also be of interest to anyone who wants to install a Parrot handsfree (on models that don't have the NavCom) or mount anything else on the dash without leaving visible wiring or any permanent marks. Instructions are for a right-hand drive car - left and right will need reversing in some cases for left-hand drive models. The instructions for removing the amp should also be valid for removing the sat-nav CD player on pre-2005 models.

Tools required:
T20 Torx screwdriver - a fairly stubby one (or one with a flexible drive) is needed when undoing the amp mountings.
Philips screwdriver.
Foam double-sided sticky pads or double-sided foam adhesive tape
Sharp blade or Stanley knife.
At least half a dozen or more small cable tie wraps, preferably black.
Radio code (just in case, though you shouldn't need it.)

First of all, read the manual that comes with the docking kit. It mentions the possibility of having to swap over a bullet connector on certain cars, and the Laguna is one of them. (Important, please see edit below.)

Remove the glove box lining as follows:
* Remove the T20 screw in the rear centre of the glove compartment.
* Use good old brute force (not too much) to free the top and bottom clips on the right hand side of the lining.
* Locate the top left hand clip (a small, square U shape cut-out in the plastic) and lever the clip down with a flat blade screwdriver while pulling at the top of the lining. Repeat for the bottom clip and the lining will come free.

Release the tuner/amp module as follows:
* Remove the four T20 mounting screws (there are two on each bracket.)
* Slide the unit forward and drop it gently through into the footwell.
* Turn the unit around so that you can see the wiring to the rear.

Remove the dash trim and centre air vents as follows:
* Use brute force to remove the trim strip that runs the width of the dash. The best bet to get a good grip is to hold the flap above the CD player at 45 degrees, get your fingers behind the strip and pull.
* Remove the two Philips screws that hold the dash vents in place.
* Lift out the dash vent.

Prepare a mount for the TomTom bracket as follows:
* Slide the head of a single cable tie into the gap between the top and bottom sections of the dash.
* Put the head of a second cable tie onto the tail of the first one and slide it all the way down (the objective is to have two tails protruding, one above and one below the trim strip when you put it back on, both secured firmly to the dash by the head that is trapped behind it.
* Thread the wires from the TomTom cradle through the air vent apeture and down into the glove compartment area. There is an opening that's plenty big enough and the wires go through very easily. Tuck the wires as far over to the left as they will go.
* Leaving enough wire to go around the back of the TomTom mount, re-fit the vent and screws, then clip the trim back into place.
* Apply foam sticky pads to the rear of the TomTom mounting bracket. These will not only help to secure it properly, but will prevent the bracket from leaving a mark on the dash when it's time to remove it. If the pads aren't very thick, apply multiple layers. Trim to the exact outline of the bracket.
* Stick the bracket to the dash with the tails of the two tie wraps protruding through two of the screw holes. Cut just the heads off two more tie wraps and put them onto the tails. Pull the tail tight with pliers and force the heads down as far as they will go with a screwdriver, making sure that the bracket ends up more or less vertical. The mounting should now be very secure. Trim the protruding tails down to size.
* Connect the control cable from the TomTom bracket to the control module.
* Disconnect both ISO connectors from the rear of the tuner/amp and plug them into the appropriate sockets on the control module.
* Connect the ISO plugs from the control unit to the rear of the tuner/amp.
* Re-fit the amp-tuner bracket and tuck the TomTom control unit as far back in the space as possible.
* Test all features on the TomTom and stereo. Use the fader controls to ensure that all speakers are working correctly.
* Connect up the TomTom remote GPS antenna and leave it hanging out of the bottom left hand corner of the glove box area so that it's accessible from the passenger footwell.
* Refit the glove box interior and clip the panel above the footwell back into place.

If you want to hide the GPS antenna wire completely, then remove the passenger sun visor as follows. (If you don't mind a tiny bit of wire showing around the top of the pillar, then you can skip this step):
* Unclip the sun visor from the right-hand mounting (nearest the rear view mirror)
* Use a screwdriver to prize open the cover on the left hand mounting.
* Use the screwdriver again to prize back the retaining clip. The visor will drop down and hinge towards the rear of the car.
* Hinge the visor further backwards to release completely.

Fit the GPS antenna into the hatched area of the windscreen as follows:
* Ensuring that the cable is not tangled or wrapped around anything, stick the antenna to the window using double-sided tape. I found that it seems to get a marginally better signal if it's fitted with the TomTom logo visible from the inside of the car.
* Route the wire along the inside of the head-lining to the passenger door A pillar.
* Go around the top of the A pillar and along the inside of the door edging trim.
* Tuck the wire away right the way down to the glove compartment.
* Re-fit the sun visor (if removed.)

It sounds a lot more complex than it is. The only problem I encountered was the velcro giving out on the panel below the glove box (that's why it's hanging down on one of the pics.)

Latest (and final, I hope) amendment. I have had problems with the unit keep switching itself off. This appears to be caused by non-standard pin-outs on Renault's ISO connectors. To correct, I had to make the following changes to the TomTom wiring loom:
1) Cut the orange/white wire from the TomTom ISO block and crimp a male bullet connector onto the end of it.
2) Plug the orange/white wire from the TomTom interface into the yellow wire on the TomTom ISO block
3) Plug the yellow wire from the TomTom interface into the red wire on the TomTom ISO block.

When wired correctly, the green LED next to the power button should only be lit when the car ignition is turned on. Then with the unit switched on, check that the battery icon is either flashing or showing as 'charging' on the 'route summary' screen. I recommend leaving the glove box lining out or loosely fitted until you are completely satisfied that your GO operates and charges correctly.

Final, final, FINAL edit (well, maybe.) I've tried and failed to find a decent power feed on the ISO block. All of the wired pins seem to cause the GO to spontaneously shut down regularly and for no apparent reason. I've eventually resorted to running a separate wire from the bullet connector on the ISO to the positive feed on the rear of the central locking switch. This means that the TomTom interface is permanently powered (and has the potential to flatten the battery) though I always wired my Nokia hands-free kits like this and never had a problem. Fingers crossed, eh?
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Last edited by Horatio; 9th August 2006 at 07:52 AM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 2nd February 2006
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Missed this one first time round but must congratulate you and a well written and very informative set of instructions - I would give you a rep point but apparently I have to spread some to others first..

Well done

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 2nd February 2006 Thread Starter
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Cheers L2O! I'd almost forgotten I'd written this.

Just a quick update: The GO is running and charging nicely with the modified wiring, but while the 'sticky pads and tie-wraps' mount idea is still holding, it's not as firm as it was when I tried the same trick on my Nokia kit for the last car. It's not really on a flat enough surface, and either needs building up, moving onto a home-made adapter plate, or for me to let the moths out of my wallet and buy a Brodit mount (though I'm not keen on things that block the air vents.)
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 2nd February 2006
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Mounting Kit

Not sure if that helps - I use a similar car mount kit for my Ipaq with Tom Tom 5

here's another

I guess you prefer not to have the windscreen mount ? Not sure ?
post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2006 Thread Starter
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I like the suction mount because it's completely 'stealth' when removed from the car (provided that you wipe the circle from the windscreen) but apart from that, it's a bit of a pain having to take it out and re-fit it each and every time you get in and out of the car. It appears that most crooks are on the look-out for the windscreen mount, and are even happy to steal just the mounts (probably to pair up with stolen GO's that they don't have the mounts for.)

So I'm happier with the dash mount - even if I can't hide it, it's going to take time to uninstall (unless they just cut the wires) and I think it's less of a blatant advert. I was originally hoping I could get the best of both worlds and fix some sort of bracket under the Carminat player flap, but I couldn't find a way of mounting even the smallest part of the bracket while still getting the flap to shut.
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