Renault Laguna II - Phase 1 - Engines - Turbo Diesel Engine Problems - Page 4 - Renault Forums :: Independent Renault forum

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post #16 of 100 (permalink) Old 24th August 2005
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It's worth bearing in mind there are some things you can do yourself to minimise the risk of turbo failure. A lot of people don't know the procedure for starting and stopping a turbo engine.

As a turbo 's bearings are oil fed from the engine sump, the oil drains back to the sump when the engine is stopped. So when you start the engine you should let it idle for about 30 seconds to allow the oil time to get up to the turbo bearings. If you drive off straight away and have the turbo spinning then you risk starving the bearings of oil .

Similarly, when in use a turbo can be spinning up to 100,000 rpm. If you stop the engine straight away the free spinning turbo vanes can still be spinning, but starved of oil for a few seconds after you've stopped the engine.

So before you stop the engine, you should again allow the engine to idle for approx 30 seconds, to let the turbo spin down before turning the engine off (which will lose the oil pressure and allow the oil to drain away back into the sump).

I make sure I do it religiously to my car (no guarantee the previous owner did, but it all helps), and did to my previous turbo car.

I tend to try to let the engine revs die down and don't give it loads of throttle for the last quarter of a mile before I know I'm going to park up. This should ensure the turbo is spinning minimally, so it's safe to stop the engine when you stop.

Turbos do make a whistling noise, that's normal. A way you can check for wear is to take off the air intake hose where it attaches to the turbo and get hold of the shaft in the centre of the turbo vanes (engine stopped obviously), and see if there's any side to side play. There shouldn't be any, as they have very tight tolerances.

I've changed turbos that have had bearings, so badly worn that the turbo vanes had been catching the turbo casing (not on cars, on heavy vehicles).

The first thing I do is start the engine, and let if idel while I put my seat belt on, turn on the CD etc, and make stopping it the last thing I do after I've turned the other stuff off. That should help prolong the life of your turbo , just make sure it's never starved of oil .

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Old 28th August 2005
This message has been deleted by Laguna II Owner. Reason: Applies to petrol engine not diesel - member agrees
post #17 of 100 (permalink) Old 26th September 2005
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If your are experiencing problems or issues with you dci turbo engine please go read the link below FIRST as I hope the other mods would agree that this is currently the best place for up to date information on the subject.

I am looking to offer readers a summary of the best solution to what seems to be a a very popular cause for concern. If you would like to contribute with your stories of how best to deal with this problem please feel free to add your pennies worth here.

Remember though first be sure to check out the excellent advice offered by antmat and crew over at parkers forum.

Be prepared for a long read
post #18 of 100 (permalink) Old 13th January 2006
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Originally Posted by Laguna II Owner
Bloody good point Badams I didn't fully explain that one at all ( **** it )

I am afraid the credit must go to Honest John who first reported this following feedback from the trade...

"On 1.9DCIs EGR valve should open to allow carbon dioxide, which acts as a cooling gas) into the combustion chambers when the engine is under load (>30% boost). This allows the combustion chamber temperature to drop and thus the temperature of the exhaust gases. If it sticks in the closed position the exhaust gas temperature will rise causing a) the turbo bearings to fail and b) engine oil into the induction system. This will cause the engine to go on running until it has consumed all its oil and then it will go bang.Problems with EGR valves in Renault dCi engines are often the cause of rough running when the valve is stuck in the open position as well. In several cases turbos have blown but the EGR valve has not been replaced. Inevitably the new turbo unit will not last long. "

Honest John
I believe that Honest John quotes from a piece that Antmat had written elsewhere and e-mailed to him. Antmat is also responsible for the technical input in the "AUTOEXPRESS" piece about problems with used cars titled "Hidden Horror Stories".

Garrett turbos are the most reliable in the world but if they are to operate in a safe and efficient manner then two things are required:

1. Clean air and

2. oils that will withstand the rigours of lubricating a bearing that supports a shaft spinning at more than 100,000 rpm!

I understand that Don of Performance Oils (AMSOIL UK Distributor) might be looking for someone with a Laguna ll 1.9dCi that is out of warranty who is prepared to run AMSOIL Euro spec and a supplementary filter. This is a good idea but I think that there might be a problem in finding a suitable take off point. An ideal test vehicle would be one that had just had a new (not refurbished) turbo and where the owner was going to be doing high mileages and keeping the car for some time.

Supplementary filters are frequently run in the States and there are factual accounts of engines running more than 100,000 miles without an oil change. Of course the oil is tested for its structural integrity every now and then!

EGR valves are frequently mentioned and I would suggest that Antmat's piece on these valves (Parker's FAQ Forum) is posted somewhere on here. I am sure that he would be agreeable. Pierburg has introduced a modified valve for the dCi engine some time back with the object of reducing its sticking.

Power loss is usually down to the valve sticking open. It is this "stickiness" that can point to failing turbo seals for oil passes through and makes its way into the induction system. Burnt oil residue will condense in the EGR valve and cause it to stick open or closed. Sometimes a good blow out will raise the exhaust gas temperatures and temporarily relieve the sticky condition.

Renault has done much to try and alleviate the situation and this has helped the later cars. There should be no similar problems with the new 2.0l engine.
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post #19 of 100 (permalink) Old 14th January 2006
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Originally Posted by Xileno
My Renault dealer uses a Castrol fully synthetic.
Amsoil is good stuff as well:
Amsoil UK website is at

and theres a 10% discount for club members
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post #20 of 100 (permalink) Old 25th January 2006
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Replaced Turbo on 1.9dci Lag 2

Long story short as I've been posting on Parkers for the past few weeks.
Car purchased from leaseplan at end of 3 yr lease with 1 year warranty (ends 31st Jan 2006). 1 month ago turbo whistling, taken to Martins Renault Basingstoke, confirmed turbo kaput, replaced and Leaseplan paid the bill.
Suggestion from parkers forum is that Intercooler, turbo pipes, oil and filter 'must' be replaced when new turbo fitted and EGR cleaned or replaced.

Since turbo replaced, around 10-15% reduction in mpg which parkers suggests could be EGR issue...

On asking Martins whether they checked EGR - NO! and it appears only the turbo was replaced, nothing else, full stop! They also state that mpg issue nothing to do with new turbo but can investigate for me if I like (and pay).

I understand that a yellow flag OTS exists for turbo 's?!?

Question -

Should Martins have done more than they did, i.e replace Intercooler, pipes, oil & filter and clean or replace EGR . Is this mandatory instruction from Renault or just a 'suggestion' or idea that has been created on 'parkers forum'.
What rights/leverage do i have to get Martins to check the EGR valve or do I take it to a small local Indy Renault garage. What are the turbo warranty issues IF they did not replace the oil & filter plus the other items mentioned above...

Any advice welcome, particularly if anyone has any 'formal' Renault feedback on the turbo issue OR any further info on the yellow flag OTS issue...

Thans in advance
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diesel , engine , engines , laguna , phase , problems , renault , turbo

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