Hi James. This is not an easy job without the proper tools.
1. apply handbrake, chock rear wheels and jack up appropriate side of car. Remove wheel.
2. refit 2 wheel nuts to the hub & tighten. Remove the driveshaft nut.
3. Unscrew the 2 bolts holding the brake caliper in place, remove caliper from disc and tie to the suspension
spring to prevent damage to the brake hose.
4. if you have ABS undo the rretaining bolt, withdraw the sensor and tie up as above.
5. Remove the nut securing the track rod end to the swivel hub and release the ball joint (with ball joint separator if needed)
6. remove the nut and clamp bolt securing the lower suspension arm to the swivel hub and carefully lever the joint apart.
7. remove athe 2 nuts securing the swivel hub to the suspension strut. The nuts are positioned at the rear of the strut. Remove bolts and support swivel hub.
8. release driveshaft joint from hub, remove swivel hub assembly. if the splines are a tight fit in the hub use a hammer and soft metal drift or a hub puller to separate.
thats fairly easy and should take about 30 mins.
now the tricky bit.
support the swivel hub on blocks or in a vice.
using a tubular spacer which rests on the inner edge of the hub flange press the flange out of the bearing. if the inner race remains on the hub remove using a bearing puller.
extract the bearing retaining circlip from the inner end of the swivel hub assembly.
using a tubular spacer on the inner race only, press the bearing assembly out of the hub.
clean the hub and remove any burrs.
to refit the bearing (or a new one)
support the swivel hub and locate the bearing in the hub. pres the bearing into the hub using a tubular spacer on the outer race.
NOTE the bearing must enter squarely
fit new circlipand refit hub in reverse to dismantling. remembering to apply locking fluid to the driveshaft splines and any bolt threads.
Note a new driveshaft nut must be used.
finally check the hub spins freely, refit the roadwheel and road test.
from experience the hardest part is separating the bearing from the hub. They are an interference fit so are tight as hell. Add to this several years of grit and muck from the road and they are almost impossible to remove without a hydraulic press. If you know a friendly mechanic, take him the swivel hub and new bearings together with his favourite drink. It's worth at least £20 in time saved.
I have once when desperate resorted to getting a hub with bearings from a breakers for £15 and just swapped the hubs over. Took about an hour all in, then I took the original hub to my local mechanic and had a new bearing fitted ready for the next time.