Renault Scenic 2 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement - Page 14 - Renault Forums :: Independent Renault forum

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post #66 of 108 (permalink) Old 17th September 2011
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Re: Renault Scenic 2 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

I wish I'd found this before I tried to change the pads on my car. Google led me to some idiot that said it was a five minute job - it took me 3 hours to do one wheel!

The biggest problems I encountered were (1) getting the piston back - I would definitely recommend buying / borrowing a tool, (2) fitting the new pads between the shims that were present on my version and (3) finding an 18mm socket.
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post #67 of 108 (permalink) Old 28th October 2011
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Re: Renault Scenic 2 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

a) Piston wind-back tools as illustrated are a VERY worthwhile investment and will pay for themselves time over. Availabale for a few 's from most Halfords.

b) During piston wind-back, it is often recommended to loose off the bleed nipple and expel the excess fluid that way. The fluid in the cylinders will be heat affected anyway, so its usually worth changing it at the same time. This also avoids pushing fluid back up to the reservoir and the overflow danger that entails AND it makes piston push back a shed-load easier
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post #68 of 108 (permalink) Old 12th November 2011
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Re: Renault Scenic 2 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Done mine today..

Since the weather is 'nice' - warm enough and not raining I decided to renew the rear brake pads. I had done the front a week ago due to the last MoT advisory and found them to be OK, but what the hey.

First think was to turn the car round in the driveway and run it in nose-first and then put the ramps under the front to act as chocks.
First problem - the ramps wouldn't fit under the bodywork, so some improvised chocks out of wood later and we have the handbrake off and in P.

Open bonnet, take off the top of the brake reservoir, and put it into a little plastic tray that started life in a Chinese order.

Oh - and take my ring off.

Loosen wheel nuts - surely these should be called wheel bolts by now? (easy compared to steels since they are only done up to 90Nm) - and don't forget to use the security adapter for one of the bolts, at least I know where that is kept :-) (apologies again for not mentioning that before leaving you)

Next find one place for the trolley jack and another for the axle stand. First one is easy but the second isn't happening. Ah - turns out the sill has hollow bit by it's jacking point, just the right size for an axle stand, and the rear axle has a nice lip that will stop the trolley jack from rolling out form underneath - excellent..
Now for the offside - bugger! the fuel tank gets in the way (a few more buggers are uttered) ah, if I turn the axle stand top around and put some weight on it we're good to go.

Right - wheel bolts are loosened so now it's take them out and put them in a safe location.

OK - a quick look at the manual and then disconnect the handbrake cable (with the aid of mole-grips) and take out the two bolts holding the calliper to the pad holder. Then tie the calliper to anything to stop it falling, luckily there is a screw end above that does the job.

Take out the two pads and the anti-squeal plates (easy - especially with a screwdriver) and then attack the piston to get it back into place. This is a little tricky since they are attached to the handbrake and therefore have a ratchet mechanism to take up the slack - this needs to be wound back. Luckily I have a special tool which I whip out and lubricate up.
OK (after much faffing around since it's the first time I have used this tool) so the key to using this special tool is to take the large plate off the device and get the plate with the lugs lined up with the notches on the piston. Then (after making sure it's wound in all the way) you can push the large plate back into place so that it rests against the calliper - then start turning.
Easy-peasy - the rear pistons obviously displaces less fluid that the fronts since winding them back doesn't cause any fluid loss from the reservoir - in fact I only took out a little to make sure the cap, which has a level sensor in it, can go back OK.
Right - piston is pushed back, now time for the new pads - but I need to fit the anti-squeal pads first, which involves a few taps with a small hammer. after that the pads just push into place, the calliper can be swung back (after taking out the holding wire - doh) and done up with the two supplied bolts.
Then it's the torque wrench - 32Nm on the calliper bolts.

Put the cap on the brake reservoir back on, re-attach the hand-brake cable, and get in the drivers seat to press the brake pedal a few times and make sure the handbrake is working.
Put the wheel back and out with the torque wrench again (90Nm seems hardly anything compared to steels).

Undo the brake reservoir cap and then do the other side.

Then it's using the trolley jack to take the weight off the axle stands so they can be removed (taking the pin out makes that a lot quicker) and once the car is back on rubber it's a good idea to make sure the handbrake is released and done up again, since if it was on when the car gets lowered the cable gets put under tension by the suspension moving back into place.

All the tools go back and after a quick scrub and change of clothing (and lunch) I take the car out for a very quick check. It will take a while for the pads to wear in, but at least the slack is taken up and the reservoir is full.

I also took the opportunity to clear the 4 drain slots in the sill with a tie-wrap - no gush of water though.

And that's it - brake pads renewed, geometry all checked, new tyres on the front and everything working.

Next thing will be a 'service': engine oil drain and re-fill, spark plugs removed and gaps checked, air & oil filters replaced.

Now for the professionals to start saying 'no - you don't do it like that!' :-)

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post #69 of 108 (permalink) Old 9th January 2012
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Re: Renault Scenic 2 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

So another problem,

fitted the new discs and pads to the rear and the ABS warning has come one, someone on here mentioned I may have knocked the ABS sensor.

Which side is the sensor on? I have a grand scenic 54 plate and is anyone has a photo that would help out a lot.

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post #70 of 108 (permalink) Old 7th February 2012
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Re: Renault Scenic 2 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Originally Posted by madnoel10 View Post
Only two bolts are supplied as you only need to remove one each side to replace pads you undo one bolt and guess what the calliper swings upwards rotating on the bolt that is left.
OK, thread revival time !

Just an observation and I could be wrong, but it's removing one of the guide pins that allow you to swing the caliper up, not the caliper mounting bracket bolts as supplied in the pad set.

I'm just about to start the job of changing my discs and have fallen at the first hurdle.

The previous owner has mangled the caliper mounting bracket bolts, so I can't even get to start.:loser:

Only available from Renault, cheap at 1.10 but not a stock item and have to wait for delivery to dealer, then drive 12 miles to pick them up.
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brake , pad , rear , renault , replacement , scenic

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