Renault Scenic 2 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement - Page 7 - Renault Forums :: Independent Renault forum

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post #31 of 108 (permalink) Old 20th July 2007
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Originally Posted by Cosmite View Post
Saved my day, thanks!

It took me about 3 hours to get the first side done (visiting Renault Forums after the first hour of frustration) and a half-hour to do the other.

Just a couple of things to add (sorry if it's been said and I've missed it):

The handbrake cable unhooks fairly easily, which then allows the caliper to be swung round for better accessibility. I laid my two wheels flat on top of each other and supported it on them.

I wasted a lot of time turning the cylinder, expecting it to screw itself in, but it doesn't.
Then, as suggested above, I used a 150mm wood clamp to put the pressure on; it needed quite a bit. Then I screwed the cylinder in with a super-wrench; adjustable crescent pliers would probably do too.
you have to get the rotating end as central as you can on the piston, the other end has to be parallel on the nut for the hand brake adjuster, as you start to wind, the piston will rotate if its all parallel.

cessante ratione legis cessat ipsa lex

"When the reason for the law ceases, the law itself ceases."
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Last edited by espaced?; 20th July 2007 at 09:00 AM. Reason: punctuation
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post #32 of 108 (permalink) Old 24th July 2007
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pads - using your own tool


Thanks for suggesting an alternative rear caliper "turner"
Did you mean one of these G clamp + foots:

And, many many thanks for all the other excellent contributors - especially as I'm on my haunches all day tomorrow, doing all four wheels. After many 100s of pad changes - i find myself nervous in front of Renault modern complexity :-)

A few ancilliary questions, if I could -

1) The pipes to the caliper appear solid type - so bending back or allow to hang is not an option ! Do you disconnect at the caliper of further down the way?
2) Renault supplied pads now come with a strange shaped clip .. (square section, a large and a small grip area, parallel to one another) any advice on orientation?
3) In the last 8 months there was a recall on Scenics for brakes ... what was the exact detail of what Renault changed?

many thanks

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post #33 of 108 (permalink) Old 25th July 2007
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Answering my own point (2) on post, via Gonescenile's kindly FRONT PAD Tutorial:

it was these little so and so's:

I will try and get a nice shot of the orientation I ended up with :-)

Last edited by johnny53; 25th July 2007 at 02:09 PM.
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post #34 of 108 (permalink) Old 25th July 2007 Thread Starter
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I'm glad the pics helped

Most of these things are straighforward enough as long as you take your time with them - especially if it's your first attempt with any particular car.


I think I have CDO. It's like OCD, but with ALL THE LETTERS IN THE RIGHT ORDER
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post #35 of 108 (permalink) Old 26th July 2007
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A few extra notes to Rear Pad tutorial

Having just completed - thought I would add a few notes to Gonescenile's excellent opener.

You will only find 2 caliper bolts in the full kit (official Renault) when you really need 4. I cannot imagine why they do that - idiocy is my first thought. Therefore you will have to source 2 more, or use the old (not really a great idea) with a touch of bolt lock.

There seems to be much more cr@p in the Rears - due to design or drive ... and more clean-down is required.

USE that bungie to keep the caliper out of your way - you'll be so glad you grabbed it before dismantle.

The Rear Caliper requires two spanners this time:

The Rear Pads are more jammed in than others - use a bit of judicious tapping.
The Caliper removed reveals the auto handbrake piston.
Clean it up ! - between splines as well!
You can leave the handbrake attached ... depends how you like to work.
The "screwing in" is not easy ... and it does resist on the final piston , unless you've bled a little fluid. G Clamp, unless quite large won't quite stretch to covering the piston and holding, centrally, at its back. I also found that a GClamp + foot didn't really turn as you tighten ... some other might. So, some strong arm + hand + longnosed robust pliers can do it - or get the special tool...

The clips aren't as snug and positive as the front - and may need a little moving around to snap in

Final assembly
A small surprise as the smaller pads here have a tacky glue area on the backs. I suppose they might overcome some engineering problem...squealing, or binding "on". I can only assume that Renault think the piston and caliper fingers will "stick" to this patch and therefore release pads a little better - seems a bit of a cludge. Nonetheless, I thought it wise NOT to put copaslip here (which you can) as it will ruin any effect that the tacky surface may have. Or is there some other reason for it??

Bad Wear - I found the warning light was actually responding to just one pad...which was at the very limit. I could've driven another 5000 on the rest of them!

Anyhow, the probable LACK of copaslip in the clip grooves/cleaning/poor clip seating on the INNER rear pad gave a severe uneven wear. The pad was much more jammed with cr@p and locked in to the disk surface, than the outer pad. Or maybe that's where the "tacky" surface comes in ?Both pistons were operationally fine

Worth keeping the rears cleaned through, occassionally
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brake , pad , rear , renault , replacement , scenic

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