Join Date: Feb 2008
Nominated 0 Times in 0 Posts
TOTW/F/M Award(s): 0
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Re: Renault - Scenic - Window Regulator Brackets/Clips
All fixed now. Following on from my post last week or so with a RX4 right-hand-side windows regulator plastic bits all broken with cables jammed and window sliding about. This is what I found and did,
I bought the Scenic <2003 regulator plastic parts and cables as a kit. No pictures but here is the whole job described,
1) Undo 2 x Torx screws low at bottom of door panel.
2) Undo the 1 x Torx screw on the door handle and the 1 x Torx on the Windows switch on the arm rest.
3) Lift up the winder switch/arm rest and unclip the electrical connector freeing the switch.
4) Pop off the Speaker cover and unscrew the speaker and remove.
5) Pull out the door cover from the bottom and lift it up (it stays in at the top as it has a lip that hooks over the top near where the window glass slides down. It is also held in by a black mastic and plastic pop fasteners.
6) Free the door handle and put aside the removed cover.
7) Have no idea what mess you will see but you now need to unbolt (10mm) the vertical slider rail. It has a bolt at the top and bottom and holds this bar in place.
8) To get more room unscrew the large black molded armrest that is right in front of you. It has torx screws holding it in.
9) Unclip electrical fitting on winder motor and unbolt the winder motor (3 x 10mm nuts).
10) As the mechanism may have unspooled itself then the window may slip down OK but if it is all jammed in place then you'll have to unspool the cables manually to release whatever pressure has jammed it. To do this ease out the motor out of the hole on the left and twist it over and then unscrew the 3 x torx screws that hold the motor gearbox to the metal frame that holds the spool in place. Don't unclip the cables clamps but just unwind the cables from the spool. This'll release the mess and allow the window to slid down to about the middle.
11) The vertical slider track can now be pushed up to unclip itself from the top.
12) You must also reach behind the window and remove a retaining clip - it has a finger-sized lip on it to do this.
13) Rotate the slider track clockwize so it has eased out a bit and then unpop the glass from the plastic slider that runs up and down the track. It is a bit hard but it should go.
14) Slide the window up out of the way and jam it (it may stay jammed naturally or as someone else suggested - use a bit of wood.
15) Remove this guide track. You do this by wiggling the bottom end to the left to get the top end to free itself to the top right. The whole lot comes out. You also slip it back in this way (with the motor/gearbox all assembled) when reassembling.
16) Make a note that of the two cables one is SHORTER than the other by an inch or so. The short cable goes to through the top guide and the longer to the bottom of the track.
17) remove all the old parts on the slider track. Keep the tiny rubber buffer on the bottom clip if it is not on the new part.
18) Clip in the new parts, which are a bottom, the slider and the top curve. They have lugs so pretty clear which way to lock in. Don't grease track yet.
19) Feed the loose end of the shorter cable through the top slider and slot the cable end into its position on the slider. Feed the loose end of the longer cable through the bottom slider and slot the cable end into its position on the slider.
20) Put the slider with cables into the middle of the track. With the metal frame that holds the spool with the 3 bolts facing up and the cable clamping points towards the bottom then click in the left hand (bottom cable) clamp (it has 3 slots to pick - try the middle to start with). Click the cable end into the spool and wind the cable onto the spool so that it has fully wound up. This uses up about 1/2 the spool.
21) Manually then wind the other end onto the spool. The last little bit is hard to get right.
22) Add a bit of grease to the top of the spool and then carefully screw the motor/gearbox back onto the spool. You may have to wind the spool a bit to get the lugs on the spool to align to the gearbox.
23) Now you must lock in the spring loader for the existing clamped cable end. Push it in and squeeze in the little tabs to lock. Now you must click the cable clamping for the right hand (top) cable onto its retaining slot. This is hard. I had to wrap a bit of solid core wire around the cable clamp and use molegrips and pull as hard as possible to get it to click in. I also had to scrap off some plastic covering the metal spiral cable sheild where it seated with the top and bottom plastic bits to get a few more millimetres of cable slack.
24) If you succeed with 23) then you now have a ready-to-install regulator. Put a bit of grease on the slider track.
25) Back to the car door you poke the bottom end of the assembled regulator in with the motor assembly and wiggle it around so that at least 1 bolt poke out of a hole and then you rotate the top of the guide up anticlockwize. Get the window around 1/2 way and then click in the slider. Rotate the guide and then lock in its top lug in the door frame.
26) Properly align the motor gearbox bolts and bolt up and then bolt up the guide (10mm top and bottom). I have no idea what torque it is but it is not much so 10Nm should do.
27) Clip in the motor power and the window switch mechanism so you can test this. Run the window up and down a few times (the RX4 passenger windows are not self-stopping/one-click -only the driver door is - so no special testing).
28) Keep window in middle and if all OK then clip on the plastic tab that locks the slider behind the glass. Remove the window switch (you only clipped that on to test).
29) Reinstall the big black plastic molding that you removed to get access.
30) Reassemble door panel by poking door release handle into its hole, window switch cable into the armrest hole and then slide the panel on the top left in under the little 1/4-light window plastic trim and hook the plastic edge into its slot near the window frame and then push down the bottom of the door to where it has the two screws. It should all click into place.
31) Screw in the door release handle, clip in the winder switch cable, screw in the two screws at the bottom of the door and then screw in the winder switch arm rest.
32) Attach the wires to speaker and then screw in the speakers. Click the speaker cover back into place.
That's all folks. It sounds like a lot of steps but it is a pretty methodical exercise with no real gotchas and as it is such a hassle having a broken window winder it is well worth the 2 hours or so effort to fix this. This is the first time I've fixed on of these.
Currently in openmtl's garage:
2000 Renault Scenic RX4 2.0 Petrol