Renault Scenic II - Access the resistor pack in 5 mins. - Page 38 - Renault Forums :: Independent Renault forum

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post #186 of 367 (permalink) Old 26th July 2011
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Re: Renault Scenic II - Access the resistor pack in 5 mins.

this is an excellent thread.

I opened the dash to get through to the wires, but I couldn't find any fault by visual inspection.

Is there a way to measure that the loom and resistor pack are ok?

My problem is that I have lost the blower 1, but 2,3 and 4 works. However, the AC (manual) only works with the blower set on 1 (I can here the AC compressor turning on).

Furthermore, when checking the wires, I noticed that together with the possible faulty wiring setup there was two wires attached to a connector which was hanging loose. I fear that I have taken it off of somewhere, but don't know/can't see where. Any ideas on that?
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post #187 of 367 (permalink) Old 2nd August 2011
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Re: Scenic with Climate control

Originally Posted by dpeel View Post
As i have found, if you have a scenic with automatic aircon or climate control, the process as detailled by Aahbarnes is slightly different. The "Resistor pack" is a different design but is in the same location . It is held in place by one fixing towards the front of the dash and a clip at the back . It has two green connectors . Once removed you will see it looks more like an Amplifier. with a heat sink. There are no resistors or thermal fuses in it and nothing that looks user repairable ( its all microchips and very small ones at that !). It is a little more expensive as well at £82 . If you wish to help prove that this part is at fault (as was mine - no Aircon or blower motor ) then taking the larger of the two green plugs from it ,12v connected to the Red and Black wires in it will operate the blower motor, so you can check it without disasembling the dash.
I did the above,but,no joy from fan. I had this done in 2006 by Renault dealer.They said it was the fan,but,the resistor has a manufacture date of 2006.The car is a 2004 Scenic II. Just wondering how to check powering the fan directly to see if thats the problem.Have had to remove most of the facia as arm too big for hole via speedo.
Mine is climate control. Stopped working for about a week then suddenly started to work again.After a day it stopped.I have checked all the connections and they appear to be OK. Opened resister unit,but,nothing obvious.Any help would be great.Normally get by with the Haynes manual,but,this one has got me!
Currently in rory1968's garage:
Renault Scenic 2004, BMW F10 2011
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post #188 of 367 (permalink) Old 9th August 2011
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Re: Renault Scenic II - Access the resistor pack in 5 mins.

Hi Rory, I also have a 2004 scenic 2 with climate. I know what you mean about the problem with the arm...Ditto..! How did you find the resistor pack? I cant find mine and its damned annoying. Hope you can help...cheers bud.
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post #189 of 367 (permalink) Old 22nd August 2011
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Re: Renault Scenic II - Access the resistor pack in 5 mins.

Originally Posted by aahbarnes View Post
I don't know if this has been posted before. I just managed to access the resistor pack in 5 mins, maybe less. Haynes reckon the dash top fascia needs to be removed, massive job. I avoided this.

I simply removed the two digital dash surrounds, then to the right of the digital display is quite a large hole. I shone a torch in here and there in front of my eyes was the connector for the resistor pack. Reached my arm in, disconnected it, have noticed slight burning on connector, so need to replace this. The connector has quite long cables, so reaches outside the dash for repair.

Removed resistor pack with torx screwdriver, appears to be OK, put all back together and is working now. But will need new loom section.

EDIT: See post 17 on for pics.
I have read many posts on this and thanks to all those who have shared info. Given the service I received form Renault I wanted to make sure that everyone can do this repair without having to go to Renault so I have tried to draw together the info into one place with my experience. The quote from my local Renault dealer was over £400 to it fixed it.....not an option. The parts cost £120 and it took me 2 hours. My guess is someone experienced would do this in around an hour, not surprising that they had the parts in stock when I phoned! I think they are making money out of this design fault. (as an aside I have a 30 year old British car in the garage which has had less faults in recent years than a 7 year old Renault!

So, I too have a 2004 renault scenic with a/c where there has been intermittent blower motor with it randomly working on different settings and finally packing up completely. I removed the upper and lower display trim as per the previous posts – thanks to those who shared this, without this it is not possible to carry out a simple fix, but you need someone who can use wire cutters and a crimping tool and who has fairly thin wrists and forearms. I found the wiring plug was melted as per the previous posts. I contacted both the local Renault dealer and RCS and was very disappointed with both (that would be a whole separate post).

I chose to purchased the resistor pack and modified wiring loom Parts at £120 from Renault – I think this allows for a robust and simple fix which I assume should last. Both parts are modified with additional connectors on the resistor pack (I assume to spread the load and additional wires in the replacement loom) – I should add that the wiring loom is a complete rip off but it does make the repair easy.

In addition to the wiring loom and resistor pack you will need a small pair of pliers or crimpers (these need to have short handles) so you can fit them through the small hole and work inside the dash. You will need a torch, and torx head drive (sorry not sure of the size) again need to be short handle– my socket set (Halfords) has a small flexible extension and this was perfect – about 4 inches long. You will also need 2 additional large crimp-type wire connectors similar to those in the wiring loom repair pack. A small set of wire strippers or a small sharp knife is needed to strip the wires.

So, check you have the radio code, disconnect the battery. Remove the two trim pieces, place hand through hole and find the wiring loom in question and plug and pull out, this is to the right through the hole. This is the easy bit. You just cut the wires one by one and crimp on the replacement wring loom using the supplied connectors. Yes the wires on the new loom are all purple but if you make sure you do it one wire at a time and hold the original plug in the same orientation as the new and connect the wires up it is simple (mine had one spare wire on the original loom and new loom which didn’t have a connection on the resistor pack so must be for a function on a different model). Over all there are 6 wires on the original loom and 6 wires on replacement so just match them up with their location on the plug. This bit is easy because you can do it outside the dash. When finished I secured all the wires with some electrical tape to make it neat and secure.

Now the slightly tricky bit. Feel around further inside the dash for the resistor pack and use the torx head drive to remove the screw (mine only had one) this is quite simple. Then unclip, basically you have to wiggle it around blindly until is comes undone, then pull out. There are a positive and negative wires attached (you can see these before you start on the replacement part) these seem fixed but a firm pull releases something (thanks to previous posts!) and there is then enough wire to cut these as close as possible to the connections on the resistor pack leaving as much wire as possible. I then cut the connector of the new resistor pack and connected up the two wires with crimp connectors. The tricky part with this is its inside the dash so I ended up using small pliers inside the dash to do it. You can’t see what going on so you need to be patient and keep trying! Then you clip the resistor pack back in (only seems to fit one way up) and put the torx screw in place and twist by hand first to get it started and then use the tool.

Put all wires back in dash and connect the battery then check pollen filter is clean to ensure air flow is not hindered which maybe the start of the problem (hatch at the back of the engine bay above the top of the engine cover) and away you go. (reset radio)

I hope this explains it clearly and will save other time hunting around in the garage for different tools! Oh by the way I take no responsibility for anyone carrying out this repair using my instructions above! But I hope they help!

The one thing I did which maybe wrong is to cut the wires which go from the resistor pack to the blower motor – the only other option is to remove the dash which looks very difficult. However I connected these wires using similar connectors to those supplied by Renault in the wiring loom so I can’t see any problem with this. It would be interesting to know if anyone has had the repair done by Renault and if they can see if these wires were cut like mine. If they were then as I say I think it’s an hour or so job for someone experienced. So the labour should maybe £135 plus parts would be around £255. Anyone now reading this who is unsure can at least take it to an independent garage and see if they can do it for a reasonable price.
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post #190 of 367 (permalink) Old 23rd August 2011
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Re: Renault Scenic II - Access the resistor pack in 5 mins.

Good post.

I will need to do this job soon, so any help is great, but I'm not so convinced about crimping wires blindly. If the connection is not secure, it's going to fail at some point, just like the original design.

I'm going to have to try to see if the wires can come out any further to aid in this, especially as my hands just about fit in in the dash, let alone doing any work in there.

access , mins , pack , renault , resistor , scenic

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