If it scans Ok - can Admins move to appropriate place ? - ta
This is a fairly detailed guide to changing a front Window winder on a Scenic 2. If you have your window glass propped up with wood, rubber wedges or a cable tie – then read on
It applies specifically to driver’s door, but the principle is the same for all
Assemble some sort of kit - you’ll need:
1) “persuaders” (Flat screwdrivers/levers)
2) Mini-socket + min extender
3) Long nosed pliers
4) String or stick
5) Spirit / Cleaner
6) Waterproof wrap
7) Small bladed drivers
8) Grease – optional
9) Wire kit – maybe, if you’re replacing cable
10) Renault Torx star screwdrivers
Prize up the mini storage box … note hole – this is where a plastic slug will be been inserted. Try and wiggle the slug out first …before lifting, or simply be aggressive and break the slug off anyway
This box cavity will give you half-a-chance to study the switch assembly…. if some nice soul has trapped loom
Lever out the Switch assembly. The small plastic “catches” that hold it in are to the rear. So lift from the front first
The switch assembly will be wrapped in cack (waterproofing) which you will have to rip up, to pull it out and unplug the 3 sockets
Prize off the Door Handle cover and take out the top screw
The bottom part is not a screw – it’s a small bolt. It is recessed 8cm – so you’ll need a micro socket with a little extension. It’s dark in there … so don’t assume it’s some weird fitment and drill around it to remove….like some idiot would/did
Now you can lift the small panel away. Man-handle by pulling evenly around and popping the lugs out from the bodywork…. and lifting upward to clear.
This is a good time to make a chart … screws differ
Take off the main panel
Remove one screw from the moulding behind the small panel you have just removed
Flip the little cap and take out the door latch screw:
Take out the x2 screws from the bottom of the door panel
The only thing that is now a possible obstacle to getting the main panel away, is the Mirror Control.
If some kind soul has not taped down (inside) the cable that supplies it, then it MAY have enough play in the cable, to manhandle/pop off the panel, lean it away and undo the Mirror Control properly.
Alternatively, forcibly removing the panel will make the top half of the controller “pop” away from its internal body anyway. Below is the control and the body circuit inside.
Note, this is a good time to consider the cr*p circuit design: broken dirty tracks, arcing etc Clean with some spirit ( see other threads, re: Fire Hazard of Mirror Controls)
With no more fittings in the way, “persuade” the panel to pop and lean away from the door… there are a multitude of white friction-fit lugs to persuade ( as with any door) - you will likely snap one... Remember the lugs have a bottom lip of plastic. So the trick is to lever/pull/curse etc., but realise that the panel has to be lifted UPWARDS, a little. Pulling like crazy, horizontally, will only snap a few more.
Hopefully the panel will play nicely and lift away with just a loom clip to free
And the door opening cable – still holding on
Pop the lid to this cable housing and unhook it It’s just a Hammerhead stop.. and it will not fly away down the cable guide.
Cable now unhooked …the main panel can nearly
come away. Ease away the Speaker cable from its little route, and, if you haven’t popped it off accidentally (see above), take the back of the Mirror Control away from the switch above it.
There may be some bits of loom / tape /Clips etc, that are tied in, but essentially the main panel will now swing out of the way.
Now you can see the rabbit
after a cuppa and a biccy, you can get at the Winder
Consider securing your window glass, before you disembowel your winder assembly
The Winder is held on by 3 screws … one of which is already out, because that was the longer of the bottom panel screws ( great design !)
An the bottom No 3 is already out
Now, pull off a small plastic retainer + grub and push the nipple….to get rid of a weird, waterproofing/plastic useless object thingy:
The only thing stopping the winder from coming out is that your window glass is likely still attached to a broken bracket.
Push/pop out the remains of the bracket from the hole in your glass , secure the glass if necessary ..
unplug the motor
and swing the winder assembly to clockwise/diagonal… to remove
Now you can see the guts…Many owners will have a different cable type from the one shown (early model)but the principle of the motor, slider, cables applies.
Time to study the spaghetti you have from an exploding carrier.
Unwind the spaghetti and repair wires. Take the whole unit away to the kitchen table, because it requires some patience to unravel the kit and re-build properly
3 screws on the reverse of motor( see above). By pulling the motor from its housing and releasing tension etc, you have opportunity to re-wire the motor/regulator’s cable guides.
It is too difficult to take pictures here. But the essential advice is that the cables are in two distinct parts. One cable has one of its ends secured into the reel inner;, the other into the reel outer. ( front/back, if you like) The cables then wrap in opposite directions, approximately 2.5 turns toward the middle of the reel. They exit the reel in opposite directions; go over tensioners and lock into the carrier you’re replacing. Cble(s) should be very taunt, once they are both in place.
Take drawings of which wire goes on the inner/outer of the reel, before you pull the spaghetti apart.
You will have to insert the wire ends into the reel, wind them round and THEN return your reel to its housing, while keeping them in their guide rails (3 hands !)
You cannot wind any wire around, once they are in the housing
You must pass the wires, through the gap in the housing first - and work on the winding procedure, there,… otherwise you will have incorrect orientation ( it will be obvious , once you have studied the layout)
Make sure the wires are nicely in their guide rails, otherwise, remove and start again.
Check the guide rails for severe wear … it they are shot – then it’s a new motor.
If you have exploded the tensioner, then look at the photo to see orientation
If you look at the “line of force” from the motor reel to the tensioner … you will not believe that an engineer would have designed such an angle to be “carried” by some plastic guides …. Just curse, and live with it.
If you have older type wheels/tensioners to handle – then, once assembled, you will have a struggle to “clip” over the cables over the tensioner Think of easing an inner tube over a bicycle rim…..
Remember the new slider slides on from only one end
Remember to put all 3 motor screws back, before you re-fit assembly !
If you are simply fitting a complete replacement
Winder Assembly – then you can forget the above
Bring your newly assembled, lovely Winder assembly back outside.
Hook up the motor power & window switches
TEST YOUR SLIDER BEFORE YOU PUT EVERYTHING BACK !
Do not worry about jerky movement … the control has to have a software re-set at the end.
It is your decision
IMHO, we are dealing with an imprecise plastic carrier running in cheap, pressed steel. The metal where the carrier slides; the metal mini guide-flange for the tensioner (not the cable guide itself) and the FRONT of the black plastic reel body, as it meets its housing are valid points of lubrication
. No lubricant, should, imho, get in contact with the cables themselves = . Other lubricant experts may comment – please.
Present you Loveley Working Slider back to the door. Put a couple of screws in … not tight down… and pull you window glass down to the new carrier.
The Glass still has to “clip” into the carrier …
Be sure you have everything right, before you clip, and screw in the mini-supporting post - unclipping from the new carrier is a bit of a fuss.
Note – the glass does really “clip” into place …. Glass will not just drop into the carrier… some pressure required.
Tighten up your x2 winder assembly screws ( the 3rd has to wait until panel is on) Put on the power and switches again … and again TEST THAT YOUR WINDOW OPERATES Do not worry about jerkiness … you will be re-setting at end.
Reverse all your disassembly :
Stoopid triangle of black plastic
Present main panel
Get long-nosed pliers - pull the door lock cable hammerhead out … and slip into the door latch cradle.
Get the speaker wires tidy
Ensure other looms are clipped and are not fowling
Hook up your Mirror unit
Ensure your window switch plugs are loose/available
Press-on the main door panel – by sliding down from the top first and then persuading clips into door holes
Panel bottom screws in
Door lock release screw in
Main panel mid screw in
Check it’s all snug and tight
Present and pop in mini panel – top in first then pop in the bottom
Screw in handle top - bolt bottom
Plug up your window switch … and wrap some new waterproof spongy cack, if you can be bothered
Pop switch and box in cavity
– wind your window to the top, and keep the button “on” for 10 seconds more .. this will re-set it, to stop it jerking.
Think about the beauty of £5 + a few hours ….versus £300+ charge from Renault.