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post #7 of (permalink) Old 17th January 2014
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Re: Scenic 2 electric parking brake HELP!!

Sounds familiar...unit working fine until rear pads done.
Had exactly that although in my case finding a siezed handbrake cable and trying to free it could have been as much the problem as changing pads.

Mines working fine now (touch wood) though a few trials and many frustratiing moments but no automatic replacement as Renault wanted or rebuild.

If your unit is making a noise it sounds like it is working but has become confused because things have changed. If it is a soft whine, that's normal. If it's a hard "hammer Drill" sound, it's cos the motor has stalled and there is a torque limiter in there same as most power drills these days.
mine was the hammer drill noise on applying the brakes, came off lovely.

Your clutch sensor would have been causing the warning and quite possibly stopping the unit trying to release the brakes automatically. They will (or should) still operate on manual with this switch faulty or fell off (it happens)

If it's the hammer noise, it's quite possible it has overstroked and jammed. And possible for the DIY mechanic to free and reset. I can talk you through it if needed.

Another problem area is the regulater assembly above the back axle. If you've stripped the unit off you've met this beast.
The secondary cables must be free moving with no hard points or the unit does get confused. It will also "learn" the hard point as normal so when the point moves it throws up warnings, possibly overstrokes or the torque limiter kicks in. That was part of my problem. Secondary cables are available from Renault (at a price) but they may deny local dealers did.
The passenger side secondary cable is a direct link to the primary from the unit. The driver's side cable is pulled by the sheath of the primary which should move freely in a plastic slot. Mine was rusty and sticking.

Calipers. Parking brake arm must be returning fully to it's stop. If it doesn't, again the unit can get confused and "learn" the wrong limits. Change pads etc can start tossing out warnings cos the poor wee thing can't tell between a fault and a fix.
One of my calipers seemed to be working fine but on a brake test (local MOT station did it FOC) was only 50% of the other side, so that was the last thing replaced. As I went through each item, either replacing or fixing, the frequency of hammer drill became less.
After that, I just drove it, operating the parking brake at every oportunity and it's seemed to have re-learnt where it should be. No warnings, no hammer drill, no slip on hills, just working as it should be.

Sorry to ramble but I'm hoping to show that it isn't always the unit and that the system has to be worked through.
Renaults approach is replace the lot. I tend to believe that the units have a poorer rep then they deserve simply cos people change them without looking over the rest of the system.
(except on the Grand Scenic where Renault have a system where the relatively cheap but commonly wearing part, cables, scrap the whole unit cos they won't make em available)

Point is, you may not need a new motor and if you do, whether rebuild or scrapper, you may still have the problems. And a unit from the scrapyards may well not only be on the point of failure but will cause issue when trying to communicate with a Can Clip.

Hope it helps sort out your thoughts, I'm happy to talk you through any specifics if I can.
Sticky from Gonnecille (SP?) in the brake section and one from Cardinal Sin give plenty of pictures of the inside of the unit. It is the same unit on the Grand Scenic as the 5 seater, just a different cable arrangement.

There are cases of failed units on here, burnt out motors or relays and dry joints but also plenty of others where unit was reset with a Can Clip after work done and all was well.
Currently in Dancingdad's garage:
Qashqai 1.6 spark driven, Kia Sedona 2.9 TDI, Scenic II 15DCi 2004 (SORN) not quite RIP.
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