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1.9dCi Engine - EGR Removal, Cleaning and Installation with Pics

266K views 118 replies 65 participants last post by  bson 
#1 ·
Hello fellow D.I.Y mechanics:d

The aim of this thread is to hopefully give you enough information to remove, clean and re-install the EGR Valve on a 1.9dCi Engine.

My Car:- Renault Laguna 1.9dCi Dynamique 120Bhp
Difficulty:- **
Time:- 1-3 Hrs
Items Required:-
- Ratchet Set
- Medium flatblade screwdriver
- Large flatblade screwdriver
- Pick / Scribe
- Carb cleaner
- Gloves
- Overalls / Old Clothes
- Rags
- Old / New tootbrush

Time is subject to how stubborn the EGR is to get out and also how long you spend cleaning it up.

Before we start the information that follows is a narrative of how i went about cleaning my EGR and should you wish to use it its completley your own discretion and responsibilty.

Ok lets get to it start by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery.

Then remove the plastic engine covers secured in place by 3 bolts place to one side.



TIP:- Place the bolts back on the threads and finger tight them reducing the risk of misplacing them.

OK now thats out the way locate the black tubing on the right hand side of the engine going into the inlet manifold.



slacken off the jubilee clip enough to remove the pipe off the butterfly body move it out the way as best you can to give you room to get at the EGR.

There she is that cylindrical looking thing with the white clip and wires coming out of it



to remove the wiring clip using the picture for orientation on the top right hand side of the connector you should see the securing clip lift that up andf then pull the connector off.

Ok get the ratchet ready and remove the 3 retaining bolts which secure the EGR once removed you
should be able to freely pull away the solenoid portion of the EGR if it dosn't come straight away give it a wiggle.



NOTE:- My picture shows my solenoid covered in oil as opposed to carbon build up this is due to the
fact i only had my EGR out about 4 weeks ago for cleaning and yes it was covered in carbon build up
this recent photo only taken this morning is due to the fact my turbo blew up on sunday.

Ok so using the carb cleaner spray the solenoid and leave to soak in whilst that is soaking in
turn to the other portion of the EGR still inset into the inlet manifold.


Using a Medium flatblade screwdriver gently manipulate it between the inlet manifold and the EGR
and start to gently jimmy the EGR out



As the Medium blade runs out of leverage i upped it toa larger blade and continued the EGR slowly progressing out of the inlet manifold i did use a hammer aswell to help it on its way by placing the screwdriver at angle and gentley tapping it out when the EGR got about half way out then got my mitts round it wriggled it it out the rest of the way.



NOTE:- It will be coated in soot and carbon build up and will be quite stubborn to get out mine certinly was when i did mine but that was 4 weeks ago when i pulled it out to clean it just keep slowly leavering it out and spray some Carb clean on it to try and help it on its way.

Also note in the picture the metal gasket i found it was re usable providing you did not damage it on removal.

Give it a good coating of Carb cleaner to soak in and start cleaning the solenoid portion.
Use the Pick and scribe to get rid off largq build ups of carbon and use a rags and a stiff bristled toothbrush to clean some of the lighter build ups.

when you are satisfied you have cleaned both parts of the EGR up spray the inlet manifold where the EGR slots into with the carb cleaner as that will be pretty caked up in there aswell using your toothbrush and rags.

Installation

All of the opposite of which you have just done

Place gasket over EGR and slot back into inlet manifold offer up solenoid portion and hold in place while you re-insert the 3 retaining bolts finger tight then get your ratchet to tighten them off 5 white knuckles did it for me but your call.

Reconnect wiring clip

Connect black tube to inlet manifold butterly housing
Re tighten jubilee clip

Refit plastic engine covers

Re-connect negative terminal on battery

Ensure you have all your tools and none are left in the engine area

Fire it up!

NOTE:- You may have to get car connected to a VAG com to remove the error code as a result of carrying out this job but the car still drives i didnt bother with mine.

It might be worth noting while you are working on the EGR to check out the inlet outlet pipes and airbox pipes going to the Turbo checking
the pipes and the surrounding areas for any oil that shouldnt be there as mine started getting the hessitation upon accelerating which led me to
clean the EGR out guess what 4 weeks later and one blown turbo i did start to get the tell tale signs just wasnt expecting that to happen so definatly check for signs of your turbo goin and listen out for signs it may be going.

Well i hope this helps

If you got any questions or feel i have missed something out drop me a message and ill update

Otherwise

Enjoy

:mechanic: Now where did i put that bolt???
 
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#32 ·
Hi, I have a megane 1.5 dci and a few weeks ago i hit a large pothole, not sure if its related but since then, when i am reaching a speed of around 70 mph, the check injection light comes on and the car goes into limp mode. I had a diagnostic done which pointed to the air flow meter, so i replaced it (with a second hand one) i was told to remove and clean the EGR valve with brake cleaner at the same time, which i did, but it didn't solve the problem. Instead i noticed a noise start coming from the engine when i accelerated, a kind of whistling or whining not sure how else to describe it? Had diagnostic done again by renault in wolverhampton and they said it was the boost control valve, so i replaced this (again second hand) but it did not solve it either, had another diagnostic telling me its to do with the air intake so tried a second hand EGR valve. But i am still getting check injection light coming on at around 70 - 90 mph ( only going at these speeds to check if it still comes on) and i am still getting the whistling noise when accelerating, its only when the revs get quite high though, when i go gently it doesn't do it. i have had a visual inspection of the turbo and pipes made by a mechanic friend of mine and they looked ok. so now i am getting to the point where i am running out of ideas, and while hoping it to be something simple, i am bracing myself to expect the turbo to need replacing. car performs well with no loss of power. in the meantime i still need the car and i am taking it easy when driving so i don't overwork it. any input would be greatly appreciated! thanks
 
#33 ·
hi, i've got a 1.9 dci scenic 2001 130k i'm seeing a bit of black smoke when accelerating hard, economy slightly down around town, from some of the previous replies it seems like i need to check out the egr valve. does the inlet maifold also need removing and cleaning, anybody know if its difficult to do thanks :confused:
 
#34 ·
Right.

After putting it off for weeks, and after using the useless Wynns egr valve spray, I decided to do my egr valve today.

Taking the bolts and solenoid off was very easy, and to be honest, getting the valve body out wasn't too hard, but when I inspected the valve body, I thought it had a hole in it, but once the cleaning had started, it turned out to be one of the slots on the body that was virtually bunged up with carbon. Not good.

So a bowl, toothbrush and some brake cleaner, (Had no carb cleaner.) and much elbow grease later, it was devoid of carbon, and as clean as a whistle. I also used a very small screwdriver to scrape out what was solidified, especially around the seat of the valve end, and anywhere else that was too hard for the toothbrush.

While the valve was out, I took the liberty of scraping wet sludge/carbon out from inside the manifold as well. Disgusting.

Now refitting is easy, as there is only one way it can go in because of the offset of the holes, and about 15 minutes later, we were good to go.

Took the car for a spin, and the light came on briefly, but I will try it tomorrow when the engine is stone cold, as it seems that the light was more prevelant when just after start up on a morning. I'm hoping that now it has been cleaned, the ecu/light was still thinking that the valve was still bunged up, and may reset it's parameters after a short while.

I'll re-post soon.
 
#35 ·
Update:

Well, set off for work this morning, and the first thing I've noticed is that the engine is more responsive, and seems to pull a lot better, however, the light still comes on, but only for about 10 seconds max, and after the engine warms up a little, it doesn't seem to come on at all.

Now I'm loathe to take it to Renault for them to stick it on their code reader, but I'm now wondering if the light won't be extinguished even though the egr valve is clean, and that it's going to continue to show until it's been cleared.

It's a decision I might have to make soon though, as I'm off to France next month on holiday and don't fancy it coming on over there, however I wonder if disconnecting the ecu for a short period might clear any lights?
 
#36 ·
Well the mind boggles.

Been a week since the egr was done, and we now have fairly high ambient temperatures, the light hasn't come on, even when the engine has been stood overnight.

So I'm now thinking it could be temperature related, and hopefully I have seen the last of it until later in the year.

Fingers crossed.
 
#39 ·
Ok,first time here and looking for help.TIA

Renault scenic dci1.9

Followed instructions mostly to removing/cleaning/refitting egr valve(not has caked as i thought it would be)..refitted,started and missus drove round the block to see if any improvement and there was,she was well happy when she got back!
After cleaning my hands decided i`d give it a spin-Started up and then cut out-won`t start since.I followed everything except,i didn`t disconnect earth first - would this do any damage..?

Could any of the clogging hard stuff which might have dropped down the pipe done any damage..ie blocked anything..?

Hope someone can shed some light..otherwise its a joining the AA and see if they can suss it..Disconected the battery for an hr since, to no avail..Battery is now on charge overnight for another go tomoz...Any info- pointers much appreciated before AA tomoz..Thanks timbernot
 
#40 ·
Hi again,joined RAC anyway and got a diagnostics bloke coming tomorrow.Noticed a few times,after trying to start is that it kicks over for a second then cuts out.
This is me guessing again going off what i did -- I first tried to get the egr off early in the morning,removed bolts and found the egr solid-so i gave the egr a good tap whilst trying to prise with a screwdriver from the sides--to no avail.Then decided i`d look further on the forums for more info.Put the bolts back and started.Then,started OK.Thought i`d leave the connection off for a while to see if any improvement whilst watching the tripometer-Headed for Blackpool with the dog and missus,noticed the tripometer went down to 36mpg(lowest ever i seen it) when usually after resetting it usually knocks about 55mpg and then steadily lowers to more 51 for motorways and 44 for regular round streets.Then i decided to floor it for a short period(lots of splutters of black smoke at around 65 and suddenly there was a surge of power and the tripometer picked up and started heading up into the 50`s,then i lowered my revs and all tickety boo.Came off at the services,put the connection to the egr back on and all still fine.Came off the little round about in blackpool and the turbo/excelleration was like new.A few hrs walking and fish and chips later decided to head home.Car all back to sluggish on the way home - which made me have the second go at the egr but this time tapped a bit harder to get it out and it did come out--
My Q is ?,after the first initial attempt of tapping and the second attempt a bit harder-Could this be the reason there was hardly any crush gunge in the egr when i did finally get it out coff ! And if this gunge crushty stuff got in from the first tapping blocked anything...Sorry for this fiirst post0am a mithering bugger.Wondering also if only i kept it running once the missus found it running smooth and took it for a long run right then instead..anyway Thanks I Advance for any pointers :confused:
 
#41 ·
Ok,first time here and looking for help.TIA

Renault scenic dci1.9

Followed instructions mostly to removing/cleaning/refitting egr valve(not has caked as i thought it would be)..refitted,started and missus drove round the block to see if any improvement and there was,she was well happy when she got back!
After cleaning my hands decided i`d give it a spin-Started up and then cut out-won`t start since.I followed everything except,i didn`t disconnect earth first - would this do any damage..?

Could any of the clogging hard stuff which might have dropped down the pipe done any damage..ie blocked anything..?

Hope someone can shed some light..otherwise its a joining the AA and see if they can suss it..Disconected the battery for an hr since, to no avail..Battery is now on charge overnight for another go tomoz...Any info- pointers much appreciated before AA tomoz..Thanks timbernot..

-------------------------------------------------
Posted this yesterday..But before this happened i did try to remove the egr valve earlier on in the morning.I couldn`t budge it giving a tap at the same time whilst trying to prise from the side..So,decided cos early i`d need to make a bit of a racket so did it all back up again and went up the motorway with the egr disconnected.Once the tripometer got to where it should be 50`sh mpg for motorway, i pulled in services and re-connected egr.Car went fine and seemed completely fixed once in Blackpool but a few hrs later on the way back it went back to how it was...
A Q ? for anyone who might be able to shed some light- could the tapping lightly with the first attempt and the harder 2nd go caused the crispy stuff and gunge come loose (why there was hardly any gunge in the egr) and preventing it now from starting..
Anyway,joined RAC just incase for future failure and got a diagnostics guy coming tomorrow..Any help much appreciated..I use to repair cars years back int old days--Clutches on vauxhalls and cortinas in less than 20 minutes where you could fir your whole body in beside the engine lol:d

Mods if this is in the wrong place feel free to move..:confused: Thanks once again John.
 
#42 ·
Ok,hi again,sorry to not mention this is a 1.9 dci 51 plate.Maybe why i didn`t get any replies..?

Ok,AA (courtesy of neighbour) checked the car for none starter after cleaning the egr valve..which ran fine and better than originally before it was cleaned but then wouldn`t start.AA put it down to a dodgy low pressure pump fitted in tank.
Diagnostic guy came and fitted a solienoid on the back of the high pressure deisel pump..Which wasnt being activated but the new`n was.Still no start,now the diagnostics guy says its the fuel pump and an RAC mechanic confirmed too--(Fuel could fly through it)
So,i have got an identical pump 2nd hand ready to be fitted today.
A couple of Q`s to allay fears..
1.Does the ecu need anything or will a pump be straight forward on this model-Bosch pump.
2. Could there have been anything related from debris from the egr build up that i may have let slip anywhere-relation to pump going..?

Will post back when the guys fitted the pump :confused:
 
#43 ·
I replaced my Turbo and cant rev by 4K
The Shop that I got the Turbo from says its the EGR valve and asked how I cleaned it?
Cleaned it before I got the Turbo fitted by Garage with your How To Guide (Thanks :d)..

They said did the EGR come off in 1 piece or 2 pieces, told them 2 pieces they said it should come out in 1 and told me it needed an EGR valve ??

Is this true as the only code my friend gets is a 1815 for pressure on hos Snap On Scanner

help please :confused:

Car is : Laguna II 1.9 Dci 2002 Sport Tourer Estate
 
#44 ·
hello all , ive just cleaned my egr wot a mess it was had no problem getting off lets see now if this helps with my check injection light coming on ? will my car do better mileage now ? going to give car a quick blast down motorway fingers croosed .i have picture of egr taken off
 

Attachments

#48 ·
Hi, i have 1.9 dci megane 2001.
I was having trouble with it not revving over 2000rpm, i read about this EGR valve, so i purchased a blanking plate. In the meantime of it arriving i unplugged the EGR and it was running fine with no probs and no warning lights on the dash.

However once plate arrived i took the EGR out (mine doesn't seem to split) and cleaned inside the body, put the blank plate on with old gasket and tried to start the engine, but it would not fire. i took the intercooler pipe off to see if it was lack of air, it fired straight away. So i put pipe back on unbolted blank plate and refitted the EGR without plugging it in and it starts.

Can anyone shed any light on this please as i am pretty baffled as to why it will not work with just blank plate.:confused:
 
#51 ·
Hi guys,

Maybe someone can shed some light on this one for me.
I have a 1.9dci Convertible ('04). About 90k miles.

The check injection light message has been on for around 18 months, but historically it seems to have had no impact. 3 months ago I had performance issues and was burning oil. Error message suggested the egr valve.

I replaced this (well, the local garage did) and all was peaceful again - back to excellent performance.

However, a couple of weeks on, and I'm back to the lack of acceleration, etc.

Any thoughts on where I go next? Is it turbo related, or something else?
Any help appreciated - it's soo frustrating! (I was overtaken by a Micra on the sliproad this morning!)
 
#52 · (Edited)
Please can you clarify which version of the EGR valve the photos at beginning of this thread refer to? According to the Haynes manual for a Scenic there are 2 types of valve. Mine looks like Euro Car Parts part no.: 424740130 http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/R...199d12514f9e9d5c066dc8892de8d9546d09ec&000117 I.e. with a finned aluminium manifold which the manual implies is water cooled. Is this the one?

The other one may be http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/R...846db4e1cc4e088780cc3900bba0092848ae47&000117

Does the fact that my check emissions light comes up on about half my journeys imply that this valve is sticking so sometimes it opens and sometimes it does not? So the solenoid is presumably providing the necessary turning at the right time but the deposits on the valve are sometimes stopping it turning.

I have had mine since new and it has always been slow to pick up from a standing start. Even now 10 years later I keep stalling it if I don't give it lots of revs on take off. I just assume that despite being a diesel it has little low end torque until the turbo spins up.
 
#54 ·
Although I was only changing the MAF sensor on my Scenic 1 DCi today, I thought that as I had already got the airbox off, it would make sense just to check my EGR valve even though I cleaned it about 6 months ago, a kinda of pre winter maintainance check if you like, and it was still very clean, but I thought while it was out I would re-clean it with Carb cleaner.

That and the MAF sensor took half an hour.

Well worth it.
 
#55 ·
Hi All, Looking a bit of advice. I have a 2006 130BHP laguna which is experiencing surging. The issue started a few months back from around 1800-2200 Rpm then seemed to clear in the higher rev range. The car has since been remapped and of course with the additional power the issue is now worse. The EGR was replaced last year and all was fine, since then the new EGR has become faulty. The EGR valve has now been removed from the ECU and blanked off, the MAP MAF and Actuator solenoid have all been replaced with genuine parts. The intercooler has been removed with all connecting hoses, including the hose going directly to the turbo, everything has been pressure tested and no leaks have been found.
Now i am at a lose, can anyone maybe point me in a different direction?

When held at a steady rev, say 3000 RPM the actuator on the back of the turbo is pulsing up and down, in the same pattern the surging appears to be happening. Have applied a vacuum to the hose going to the actuator and it is staying in position and does not seem to have any kind of leak.

All the parts that have been changed always seem to help the problem a bit, making it not as bad, but the issue still remains

Anyone any ideas???!!?!

Cheers
 
#56 ·
Hi All, Looking a bit of advice. I have a 2006 130BHP laguna which is experiencing surging. The issue started a few months back from around 1800-2200 Rpm then seemed to clear in the higher rev range. The car has since been remapped and of course with the additional power the issue is now worse. The EGR was replaced last year and all was fine, since then the new EGR has become faulty. The EGR valve has now been removed from the ECU and blanked off, the MAP MAF and Actuator solenoid have all been replaced with genuine parts. The intercooler has been removed with all connecting hoses, including the hose going directly to the turbo, everything has been pressure tested and no leaks have been found.
Now i am at a lose, can anyone maybe point me in a different direction?

When held at a steady rev, say 3000 RPM the actuator on the back of the turbo is pulsing up and down, in the same pattern the surging appears to be happening. Have applied a vacuum to the hose going to the actuator and it is staying in position and does not seem to have any kind of leak.

All the parts that have been changed always seem to help the problem a bit, making it not as bad, but the issue still remains

Anyone any ideas???!!?!

Cheers
 
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