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1.9dCi Engine - EGR Removal, Cleaning and Installation with Pics

266K views 118 replies 65 participants last post by  bson 
#1 ·
Hello fellow D.I.Y mechanics:d

The aim of this thread is to hopefully give you enough information to remove, clean and re-install the EGR Valve on a 1.9dCi Engine.

My Car:- Renault Laguna 1.9dCi Dynamique 120Bhp
Difficulty:- **
Time:- 1-3 Hrs
Items Required:-
- Ratchet Set
- Medium flatblade screwdriver
- Large flatblade screwdriver
- Pick / Scribe
- Carb cleaner
- Gloves
- Overalls / Old Clothes
- Rags
- Old / New tootbrush

Time is subject to how stubborn the EGR is to get out and also how long you spend cleaning it up.

Before we start the information that follows is a narrative of how i went about cleaning my EGR and should you wish to use it its completley your own discretion and responsibilty.

Ok lets get to it start by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery.

Then remove the plastic engine covers secured in place by 3 bolts place to one side.



TIP:- Place the bolts back on the threads and finger tight them reducing the risk of misplacing them.

OK now thats out the way locate the black tubing on the right hand side of the engine going into the inlet manifold.



slacken off the jubilee clip enough to remove the pipe off the butterfly body move it out the way as best you can to give you room to get at the EGR.

There she is that cylindrical looking thing with the white clip and wires coming out of it



to remove the wiring clip using the picture for orientation on the top right hand side of the connector you should see the securing clip lift that up andf then pull the connector off.

Ok get the ratchet ready and remove the 3 retaining bolts which secure the EGR once removed you
should be able to freely pull away the solenoid portion of the EGR if it dosn't come straight away give it a wiggle.



NOTE:- My picture shows my solenoid covered in oil as opposed to carbon build up this is due to the
fact i only had my EGR out about 4 weeks ago for cleaning and yes it was covered in carbon build up
this recent photo only taken this morning is due to the fact my turbo blew up on sunday.

Ok so using the carb cleaner spray the solenoid and leave to soak in whilst that is soaking in
turn to the other portion of the EGR still inset into the inlet manifold.


Using a Medium flatblade screwdriver gently manipulate it between the inlet manifold and the EGR
and start to gently jimmy the EGR out



As the Medium blade runs out of leverage i upped it toa larger blade and continued the EGR slowly progressing out of the inlet manifold i did use a hammer aswell to help it on its way by placing the screwdriver at angle and gentley tapping it out when the EGR got about half way out then got my mitts round it wriggled it it out the rest of the way.



NOTE:- It will be coated in soot and carbon build up and will be quite stubborn to get out mine certinly was when i did mine but that was 4 weeks ago when i pulled it out to clean it just keep slowly leavering it out and spray some Carb clean on it to try and help it on its way.

Also note in the picture the metal gasket i found it was re usable providing you did not damage it on removal.

Give it a good coating of Carb cleaner to soak in and start cleaning the solenoid portion.
Use the Pick and scribe to get rid off largq build ups of carbon and use a rags and a stiff bristled toothbrush to clean some of the lighter build ups.

when you are satisfied you have cleaned both parts of the EGR up spray the inlet manifold where the EGR slots into with the carb cleaner as that will be pretty caked up in there aswell using your toothbrush and rags.

Installation

All of the opposite of which you have just done

Place gasket over EGR and slot back into inlet manifold offer up solenoid portion and hold in place while you re-insert the 3 retaining bolts finger tight then get your ratchet to tighten them off 5 white knuckles did it for me but your call.

Reconnect wiring clip

Connect black tube to inlet manifold butterly housing
Re tighten jubilee clip

Refit plastic engine covers

Re-connect negative terminal on battery

Ensure you have all your tools and none are left in the engine area

Fire it up!

NOTE:- You may have to get car connected to a VAG com to remove the error code as a result of carrying out this job but the car still drives i didnt bother with mine.

It might be worth noting while you are working on the EGR to check out the inlet outlet pipes and airbox pipes going to the Turbo checking
the pipes and the surrounding areas for any oil that shouldnt be there as mine started getting the hessitation upon accelerating which led me to
clean the EGR out guess what 4 weeks later and one blown turbo i did start to get the tell tale signs just wasnt expecting that to happen so definatly check for signs of your turbo goin and listen out for signs it may be going.

Well i hope this helps

If you got any questions or feel i have missed something out drop me a message and ill update

Otherwise

Enjoy

:mechanic: Now where did i put that bolt???
 
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#58 ·
hello just click on reply to thread , click paperclip this will open another box up , press browse button this open up files, find photo u want click it so file no comes up in file name press open this should then come up on browse button you just clicked then go down for each photo you want , good luck
 
#59 ·
Hi,
I have a 2001 Scenic DCi. I opened the bonnet this morning and was greeted with this.
Auto part Vehicle Engine Fuel line Automotive fuel system


Have been meaning to give the EGR a clean. Seeing this kind of forced the issue. I had recently noticed on occasion a lot of hesitation when changing from first to second when cold. Not sure if this is related to the two parts separating.

Anyway EGR removed and cleaned, the reason why the valve came away from the solenoid is a broken roll pin

I don't suppose anyone knows what the diameter of these pins are (micrometer has gone walkabout!)

Cheers.
 
#61 ·
I don’t think lube would help as it runs at such a high temperature that it will just turn lube into a sticky mess.

Poor access makes it a much harder job on my Scenic 1.9dci. Haynes says drain the coolant to replace the whole EGR assembly. But I have just removed the solenoid without draining and cleaned out as much powdered soot as possible.

I can’t remove the actual EGR valve from its body using the recommended screwdriver lever method as it just bends the lugs on the flange without shifting the valve. Tried boiling water to heat the more expansive aluminium body compared with the steel valve but did not work. Suspect the only way to shift it or do further cleaning would be to remove the whole assembly which would need the draining. As I only get the check emissions message occasionally am hoping that the limited cleaning done so far is enough.

The valve feels free to press in and out so does not seem jammed or stiff. So much soot came out that it is possible it was being restricted by the build up between the valve and the solenoid.

When does the solenoid actually activate as I did not see it move in a quick engine run with solenoid off? Only when hot?
 
#65 ·
Hello fellow D.I.Y mechanics:d

The aim of this thread is to hopefully give you enough information to remove, clean and re-install the EGR Valve on a 1.9dCi Engine.



Thanks for the very informative post.

Unfortunately for me when I tried to remove mine the inner EGR valve was jammed solid and wouldn't budge. I tried a piece of wood and then a screw driver to move it with no luck even after 2 cans of EGR cleaner. The only movement I got was when 2 of the 3 bolt hole sections snapped off.

I had no choice but to buy a new EGR and I have asked a mechanic to remove to old EGR for me and fit the new one for me hoping he will have better tools than me.

When I decided to give up trying and put the solenoid half back on I accidently dropped one of the mounting bolts into the engine compartment. I think it dropped straight through to the catch tray under the engine but I couldn't find it. Do you by any chance know the size of the bolt and and where I can get replacement from?

Thanks
 
#68 ·
I guess that is the earlier model of Scenic to mine so can’t really say. Mine was somewhat similar to the pictures but access to a 1 of the 3 Allen headed solenoid bolts was very difficult. Only ball ended Allen keys would fit and to replace the bolt I had to grind the head down to a hexagon and use a spanner on it to get it started off straight. Once started the Allen key finished it off.

Sadly my car, after a month of mostly behaving, seems to have gone back to its old warning messages so I don’t think my efforts have really done much at all. Will have to replace the whole valve. As stated before I could not dismantle the whole valve to do the recommended cleaning as the inner part was seized.

I wonder if dismantling might be easierwith whole valve off the car, e.g. one could then carefully play a blowtorch on the outer part to see it that would free up the inner bit. In that case it may be feasible to do off car cleaning, saving the not inconsiderable cost of a new valve.
 
#69 ·
when i took my egr vaule off i never took it apart as where the bolts go through the egr they seemed as if they was riveted together so i never tried to force it apart , on the same time have you tried cleaning the bend pipe as well going from egr to turbo easy to get off once on do bolt just pulls out it will take time to clean on bend , there is clips on you tube when cleaning he used oven cleaner to do .
 
#70 ·
have you tried cleaning the bend pipe as well going from egr to turbo easy to get off once on do bolt just pulls out it will take time to clean on bend , there is clips on you tube when cleaning he used oven cleaner to do .
In a Scenic that pipe bend is behind the engine and so hard to get to the bottom fixing as space is very limited down there.

I find it difficult to see how soot in the U bend would cause this error message unless >50% of the pipe area is blocked and that does not seem likely.

I thought about running a pipe brush through the valve, which is possible in situ, but was worried about large chunks of carbon thus ending up in the air intake which might damage something when engine is started.
 
#72 ·
i've recently cleaned out my '05 1.9L trafic's EGR ... full of sludge. i did the 180 degree rotate trick.

just thinking, if i was to blank off the EGR pipe AND remove the EGR (it has 2 halfs, so keep the solenoid and wiring part bolted on, but have no half that goes into the intake manifold ... the solenoid being there still should mean no errors etc, but the flow of the intake manifold will be increased greatly (the EGR inside blocks a lot of airflow ive noticed).

being new with diesels, im thinking
pro's of course would be better airflow, thus more responsive and better economy and such.
con's would be that more air, running leaner, thus EGT's would have to be monitored.

any insight guys ?
 
#74 ·
1.9dCi Engine - Low power, Low revs

Recently bought a a 2002 Scenic 1.9 dci (F9Q engine). It has been off the road for a couple of weeks while I changed the O/S driveshaft, both lower ball joints and track rod ends.

When I took it back out on the road it would not accelerate above 20mph and stationary it would only achieve 2500-3250 revs. I had an associated electronic malfunction warning (the heated plugs indicator). This is a bit like the description of limp mode.

Out came the Haynes manual, for port of call change the fuel filter, no difference. Rather than take the fuel route (injectors etc) Then I looked on this forum and took various options in mind.

Next was check the EGR valve. It took only a few minutes to extract from the engine (1 electric connection and 3 bolts). It looked as though someone had filled it with tar and it took a good hour to clean it, I used an engine de-greaser first and a toothbrush, then I used a brake and clutch cleaner and blew it clean with compressed air, result- a nice shiny as new EGR valve. While it was off the engine, I cleaned the inlet manifold as best as I could with old rags and cleaner (removed a lot of tar like gunk) Put the EGR Valve back on and it made little difference apart from the engine would reach 3500- 3800 revs when stationary.

So next port of call, check the Mass Air Flow sensor. Struggled to remove the wipers at first, so I could remove the scuttle, TIP: if wipers are stubborn to remove, use a ball joint separator but protect the windscreen from damage- easy!. Once I had access to the air cleaner etc, I removed it with the MAF sensor, removed the sensor from the air box and sprayed over cleaner into it left it to rest for 15 mins. Whilst this was off, I looked at the wastegate valve (below where the MAF sensor is) to see if it was working freely, it seemed a little stiff and slow to return under spring pressure. I de-greased the area and lubricated the waste gate actuation arm. I also removed the waste gate actuation vacuum pipes and blew them out with compressed air. I then removed the inter-cooler pipes and they had residue in them so cleaned them out too. I noticed the inter-cooler looked filthy inside, so removed that too and applied a liberal amount of de-greaser then blew it out with comp air.
Mindful not to touch the thin wires in the MAF sensor, I blew it clean with comp air and also a bit of brake and clutch cleaner.
Put all the bits back together and the result is it now goes like a rocket, good revs, turbo kicking in correctly, loads of power.

Hope this help someone else.
 
#77 ·
To disable the EGR valve you would just need to disconnect the electrical connection but you may get an ECU or other warning by doing this. To blank it, you would need to remover the EGR valve and manufacture a blank to cover the hole. I understand that blanking is not recommended for any length of time as it may affect the way the turbo works by causing increase temperatures in the turbo, maybe someone else can shed some light on this.

To quote from a technical manual
"An EGR, or Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve is a means of reducing NOx (Nitrogen Oxide) emissions from your engine. The EGR valve, as its name suggests, re-circulates exhaust gases to act as a coolant in the combustion chambers.Over time EGR valves become sticky and will eventually seize open or closed. If seized open the engine may idle poorly or even stall. If seized closed the engine will operate at increased temperatures under load and may cause "engine knock". This is especially bad for turbocharged vehicles, as the increased exhaust gas temperature can lead to premature failure of the turbocharger also.

A new valve is less than £50 from europarts.

Regards

wasaloadie
 
#78 ·
I don't know if this will solve my problem but I looking to replace this split hose and I don't even know what it's called. Can anyone help please with what this long black hose is called so I know what I'm looking for. You see that the top end where it joins the EGR valve is duct taped. I have a part number but it's not turning up in online searches as yet.

Auto part Fuel line Pipe Engine Automotive fuel system


The tape only held for one day which I suspect may be due to the oil coming through the split.

The car is a 2003 Lag II 1.9 dci

It loses power between 60 and 80 mph especially going uphill and I hear a hissing noise on high revs in between gear changes, so any pointers on the noise also please.
 
#79 ·
It looks like the induction hose from the intercooler. I have 2, one from the turbo to the intercooler and one from the intercooler to the EGR valve before it goes into the engine. Mine are not flexible but fairly rigid plastic. Hope this helps, see if you've got a renault dismantlers nearby and get one form them.
 
#80 ·
Thanks for the quick response. Yes it is fairly rigid and have no idea how it broke probably about 1/3rd of the way through.

Any ideas why I might have a fair amount of oil coming through the split as I'm presuming from what I've read here it should be air passing into the EGR from the intercooler?

Cheers
 
#85 ·
I am baffled. Turbo on laguna 2 blown. Replaced with recon, all pipes fully cleaned and intercooler fully cleaned. replaced oil & filters, primed turbo.

Car ran lovely for 30 or so miles with no smoke. Then engine went mad again on full revs and i had to stall it to stop. Stuck in gear now.

What else could it possibly be? old turbo didn't seem to be damaged but had little oil in.

Help

Regards

Daz
 
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