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Espace IV 3.0 DCI Timing Belt Renewal

18K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  Paulfie 
#1 ·
Hi, I am new to the Renault Forums and need some advice please.
I have recently purchased a 2003 Espace IV with a V6 3.0 Diesel engine.
Has anyone done a replacement timing belt?, how easy or difficult is it?, or what is the estimated time etc charged by a dealership,

Many thanks
Mark
 
#3 ·
Just done mine. Managed it without removing engine. Engine mount plate is a pain to get off as bolts are long and very little room against the suspension strut. Had to bend the fuel filter pump bracket down to get plate out then bend back after. Also had to remove top drive belt pulley. Also need to remove dipstick to get plastic upper cover off. Actual cambelt is very easy to do.
Have got some pics of anybody needs them. Fuel filter and PAS reservoir need to be pulled forward for access and quick release fuel lines need disconnecting.
 
#4 ·
Hi Rachel, I would be interested in seeing the photos of the job. I was quoted £3k by a Renault main dealer to change the cambelt on the 3.0 DCI, they reckon it's an engine out job. I managed to do one previously on a 1998 Grand Espace diesel but it was a pig of a job. I can well believe that the Espace IV is worse!
 
#5 · (Edited)
It was a pig of a job without any instructions. Once plate was off actual belt and all Tensioner very easy. Will upload pics later. Profile name is actually from when I set up an account for my sister when she had a scenic. Timing is done by a chain for the valves the inner most cams are just timing the fuel pump in so will last ages. My old gear all looked fine when I removed it.
 
#8 ·
Here are the pics. Intake plenum is already off in all of them. Have some more pics somewhere.
 

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#10 · (Edited)
The bottom left bolt in the last picture is the hardest part of the job. It fouls on the suspension turret as its very long and the plate can't be extracted without withdrawing the bolt a long way to clear the head threads. I jacked the engine up and down until I got enough clearance. Well worth removing the drive belt early on as it gives clearance to drop the plate down when its unbolted. Also removed rear engine mount to allow a bit of swing. I removed the studs not just the nuts from the plenum. This allows it to be slid out without removing all the turbo bracing.
 
#11 ·
Thanks, these are useful photos. You must have removed the front OS wheel and panel behind it to get access to the crankshaft pulley and the water pump (assuming that the water pump is driven by the timing belt, as it is in the Mk3). What is access like from underneath also? Sorry these may seem like noddy questions, but I've only had the Espace IV for 6 weeks.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Remember to select neutral before you start or you can't rotate engine to check timing marks after a couple of rotations. The back bolts really are very marginal to remove in terms of clearance but it is doable. I also removed top auxillary belt roller to allow metal plate and plastic cover to slide out. If you remove plenum well worth blanking egr off with a plate off eBay. Mine is solid and did not trigger any lights on dash.
 
#17 ·
To close this one down got a few final notes having been back to the job recently. Everything is gear driven except the inlet cams which are driven by the belt from the pump. No chains anywhere. Pump and inlet cams do rotate in opposite direction to crankshaft. Timing marks on my contitech belt where not in right place so mark up whilst old belt is on.
Taking inlet plenum off as well as rear engine mount helps greatly. Jack engine up as high as possible to remove mount over cam belt cover. Be prepared to lump hammer or bend the PAS and fuel filter bracket down to get mount out. Bend back after. Start to finish possible in about 6 hours. Hope this helps someone. My old belt and tensioner all looked ok.
Should add there is no combustion chamber in head just flat surface with valves so you need to get belt on accurately to avoid valve chatter.
 
#24 ·
Hello? Anyone change the oil on this thing? I've basically got almost everything off for pullies. Just to get the cover off from the cam shaft to the injector pump. The thing is I had to take the oil sensor pump off to get oil out. It"s as low as you can go if not at the bottom. Still it seem like 3 L is not too much oil.
 
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