I've just bought a 2001 Megane Convertible 2.0 IDE that was advertised as running but cutting out. When I went to collect it wouldn't even start !! and as suspected when I read the error codes it had a Fuel Pressure Regulator fault. This fix has sorted out the problem and the engine starts and runs really well now.
I can't take the credit for this fix as a mate of mine has found out how to strip and clean IDE fuel regulators having bought a Laguna Initiale 2.0 IDE that kept going into limp mode due to a faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator. His car was also giving an error code for a Fuel Pressure Sensor fault though he has found that when the fuel system over pressurises due to a faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator this often leads to the Fuel Pressure Sensor throwing up an error code as well when the fuel system pressure parameters are exceeded . The sensor is quite robust so in many instances it would seem that most Fuel Pressure Sensors get needlessly replaced. As once the Fuel Pressure Regulator problem is resolved the Fuel Pressure Sensor stops giving error codes.
Using a dremel or similar with a small cutting disk ( possibly a hacksaw ?) carefully cut a slit in the outer case being careful just to cut through the case. The case will release and can be drawn off the regulator. There is a brass plunger with a steel ball mounted in one end that fits down inside the nozzle end of the regulator. With the brass plunger removed from the nozzle use a cotton bud with T cut or even rubbing compound down inside the nozzle and clean out the nozzle until the inside of the nozzle is nice and shinny again especially at the bottom of the hole where the steel ball seals. Also clean the brass plunger with T cut or rubbing compound until it's also nice and shinny. Then remove all traces of T cut with thinners or similar. It's also a good idea to clean the upper plunger and housing.
A circular heater hose spring clip as shown in the photo is quite effective for holding the Fuel Pressure Regulator together again and excerpt uniform pressure which jubilee clips don't always do. You might get away without a clip around the split case as once the Fuel Pressure Regulator is fastened back onto the fuel rail it can't come apart.
Dirty Fuel Pressure Regulators tendto just rattle when shaken due to lack of movement of the brass plunger once clean there is a much more definite knock when you shake the Fuel Pressure Regulator as the brass plunger is free to slide up and down to it's stop.
The more aggressively you clean the Fuel Pressure Regulator it reduces the likely hood of the plunger seizing again which in part is probably due to close fitting parts and different coefficients of expansion of steel and brass also being coated from impurities in the fuel ?
How many IDE engine cars have been unnecessarily scrapped ?
I have a Megane IDE with the fuel pressure regulator problem. Have you solved your problem? Did you use the Polish guy, or what? Is everything working well?
Hello!!, yes the problem is resolved, and by the time the polish regulator works well. I have also found a way to settle possibly forever the pressure regulator, within a few months possibly fabricate it ...:sunny:
Thank you for your replies. I have replaced the FPR with a new one to no avail. The problem is a design fault and cleaning it is not sufficient. If you only warm the car up once every two weeks, you will not see the fault. You have to get the car on the road for an hour to know that it is working properly. I am trying to find someone that has had success with the various methods out there to modify the fpr. Various people have discussed methods of disassembling the unit - which was not made to be disassembled. Has anyone found a solution that works with a hot engine?
Thank you for your replies. I have replaced the FPR with a new one to no avail. The problem is a design fault and cleaning it is not sufficient. If you only warm the car up once every two weeks, you will not see the fault. You have to get the car on the road for an hour to know that it is working properly.
Mine was running fine the last time it was driven before christmas. It's not on the road at the moment as the road tax is out and I will not bother taxing it again until I've sold my another car.
When I bought it the car wouldn't even start until I replaced the FPR with one that I'd already stripped and cleaned.
My friend stripped and cleaned the FPR on his Laguna IDE and after a month he had to remove and clean again . I've read where people have replaced their IDE FPR with a brand new unit for it only to fail within months. Yes okay so it's a design fault though I wonder if it's not down to impurities in the fuel in the fuel rail that clog the FPR up.
At the end of the day it costs nothing if you can strip and clean the FPR yourself and a lot cheaper than spending £280 on a new unit that could fail in a few months.
The Polish regulator only took him since 3 months and as I have told you for the time being it works ok, what can last?, time will tell ... As I have said I am preparing the final solution and possibly a few months i hope to be ready. The Polish regulator is the best currently works, the Renault does not serve for nothing, which works best for the Renault is the German version. As soon as it is ready i will comment in the forum.It is very important the quality of petrol, this engine so that it yields the cv you have should be used only 98 petrol and petrol station the 98 that less sulfur content already has that not all 98 are equal .... Regards!
I have a fuel injection fault and ESP fault, in my 03 Laguna V6 LX7 engine.
On another forum, that is mentioned in this thread, it says it is a fault with the FPR.
I am wondering if anyone can confirm this.
I have had the car for 12 months, and use unleded 91 octane. Maybe this caused the fault, I see it mentioned on here to use 98. The highest we can get is 95.
I am also wondering if the polish man's FPR is the same as the one in the Laguna V6.
Polish FPR is for engine 2.0ide whith direct injection.Yours is multi point injection I think 3.0 V6 and fuel must be 95 octane,maybe its yours problem too,but maybe its something else about the injection or fuel rail.Whats happening whith the power?
Most of what you are rfering to concerns the f5R 2 liter IDE 4 cylinder engine that occurs in some Lagunas and some Meganes. I don't think this information applies to you.
I would agree. The IDE engine is an entrely different animal. The IDE engine is a multi-stage direct injection (straight into the cylinders) developed by Renault and Mitsubishi and is now longer manufactured.
I have owned the car for 12 months.
I have not replaced the FPR.
The car is now in at the local garage.
All the documentation for the engine number and vin number for the car is with the car.
I might be able to get those details later on today.
The first thing that will be done is to check and clean the 02 sensors to see if that makes a difference.
It did make a difference before when the car was getting servicing done and developed a similar fault.
All the fault codes refer to generalised motorised throttle signal faults, potentiometer and throttle body faults.
356.318,336,357,360, with some of those codes being repeated multiple times.
the FPR of 2.0 ide is only for F5R engine. If your country only have fuel 91 and 95 octane, used fuel 95 octane, it don´t have lead as fuel 91 and has less sulfur. Within 95 gasolines, looking sheet marks refueling stations that you can check which has less sulfur.
As for the type of car, what is a L7X L7X 733 or 731?, Tell me also the first letters of vastidor and if you put the clip renault fault code tell me and I can help you.
I have a Renault Megane 2.0 IDE and last year had the usual problems: after 10 minutes the engine light flashes, the car sputters and maybe stops completely. I took it to Renault who replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it worked well for about a week. Then I returned to Chicago and studied the various retooling recommendations for the fpr on this list and elsewhere. I purchased another fpr and came back to France in April ready to do some serious work. But first I dumped a can of carburetor/fuel injector cleaner in the car and ran it. It worked perfectly and has done so for the last 4 months ~300km. I did nothing else!
Has anyone else experienced this or have any explanation?
I travel 150 miles a day and have now done 29,000 in less than 12 months in a Megane convertible 2.0 IDE with the method I described in the 1st post in this thread. According to the trip computer the MPG is usually between 38 - 44 depending on how hard I drive the car.
I've had no problem with FPR whatsoever. The only problem I have had is with the EGR causing the engine misfire / to cut out. I've removed and cleaned it and all seems okay.
So far I have tried this method on 4 FPR's and it's worked on 3 of them. The 4th one was damaged inside and wouldn't energize the bobbin when I applied 12v to it.
Before I refit an FPR I turn the ignition on the so that petrol gets pumped out of the fuel rail by the electric fuel pump in the hope that if there is any debris in the fuel rail it's going to get pumped out ? Though I stand to be corrected if this theory is correct or not ?
With the FPR removed I haven't turned the engines over to make the cam driven high pressure fuel pump, pump fuel. I have wondered if this could be the source of possible debris as the fuel supply from mechanical pump is not filtered.
First, you should cancel the EGR valve electrically, simply to disconnect the vehicle is stopped and then check with the clip renault has been closed. I from 70,000km and many friends that I have advised the've canceled and the best that can be done to the engine as it creates carbon deposits on the butt increasing engine temperature (detrimental to the FPR), valves, etc ... and will not have problems emission vehicle inspection in your country.
As to check with the regulator removed if gasoline goes dirt would not advise it since fuel pressure will fairly and although gasoline evaporates quickly can cause a fire. The injection rail carries a filter internally and high pressure pump filter I mentioned in the post should be placed.
Unfortunately over the km pump gears loose metal particles goes to the injection rail. To see if the pump is damaged simply listen for beeps (tic, tic, tic) especially when starting a cold engine. If this happens the solution is to change it, but I'm looking for an alternative I'll keep you informed ... I hope I clarified the doubts, regards!
Have you read through the posts at all. This thread relates to the IDE petrol direct injection engine an entirely different animal and no longer in production.
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