HAD A PROBLEM WITH MY 06 1.9DCI TRAFIC VAN DONE 70K.
SYMPTOMS
First start of the day was a challenge to say the least, I could crank it for 20 to 30 seconds constant, possibly 3 or 5 times maybe more it was flat mostly and occasionally gave a slight indication that it was firing.
When it did start it was instant no lumpyness but there was plenty of smoke of the unburned fuel type.
Once running it would start all day (though not instantly maybe 10 to 15 revolutions) and ran great on the road.
live data showed rail pressure while cranking to be circa 120 bar.(dropping to 0 bar instantly when cranking stopped)
cranking speed 250ish, ambient temp, fuel temp, coolant temp within 3 degrees of each other.
battery voltage was +12v before cranking dropping to around 9.6v at worst.battery was very good could crank for +5 mins if required
These figures led me to think faulty high pressure fuel pump or leaky injector, air leak somewhere.
No swarf was evident in fuel filter,injector leakoff test showed all within 10%
no air in system and hand primer solid after 2 or 3 pumps (head scratch time)
CAUSE OF FAULT
On the end of the fuel rail there is a pressure relief valve that has a constant bleed to return via a connection to the injector return pipe.
(I assume this is a safety feature to bleed the fuel rail of its high pressure to prevent injury to fiddling fingers if a pipe is loosened)
I removed the connection to this valve and plugged the pipe then attached a lenght of plastic clear pipe to the fuel rail. disconnected the electrics to all the injectors (to prevent engine start)
on canking I got 120 bar fp and a good flow of fuel up the pipe from the fuel rail.
With nowt to loose I removed the pressure valve from the rail (it was tight )gave it a clean and a blow off, cleaned the seat best I could in the rail.
refitted it connected pipe and injector electrics then cranked her up.
let her run for a couple o mins to ensure system fully air free then installed the clear tube on rail again as before with injector electrics disconnected.
on cranking this time :d 280 bar fp on the rail :d and only a small seep up the clear pipe.
RAIL PRESSURE DROPPED TO AROUND 40 BAR WHEN ENGINE WAS STOPPED THEN BLED AWAY EVENTUALLY TO 0 BAR SO BE WARNED THERE MAY BE PRESSURE IN THE SYSTEM FOR A WHILE AFTER ENGINE STOP.
reinstated all parts, engine started almost instantly on key turn
an took her for a 10 min spin.
on return performed the above test again but we were back to original results.
a quick call and visit to the local breakers yard and only £30 lighter in me pocket I had a replacement rail from an unstripped engine with no swarf in the filter, removed it an checked this myself.
Its been fitted 2 weeks now and the difference is :d, from cold key straight in and turn now starts as expected even when not waiting for preheat, 2 or 3 turns only.
this fault was intermittent to start with, gradually over the last year getting worse but latterly with the colder weather to the point that it was a pain daily.
I haven't found any mention of this fault / fix anywhere on this forum so thought it may help a few others with a starting problem, its easy to check and costs nowt to do.
IS IT SOMETHING THAT IS OVERLOOKED GENERALLY ?
IF YOU READ THIS AND IT RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM PLEASE LET US KNOW HERE TO ASSESS IF ITS A FAIRLY COMMON FAULT.
SYMPTOMS
First start of the day was a challenge to say the least, I could crank it for 20 to 30 seconds constant, possibly 3 or 5 times maybe more it was flat mostly and occasionally gave a slight indication that it was firing.
When it did start it was instant no lumpyness but there was plenty of smoke of the unburned fuel type.
Once running it would start all day (though not instantly maybe 10 to 15 revolutions) and ran great on the road.
live data showed rail pressure while cranking to be circa 120 bar.(dropping to 0 bar instantly when cranking stopped)
cranking speed 250ish, ambient temp, fuel temp, coolant temp within 3 degrees of each other.
battery voltage was +12v before cranking dropping to around 9.6v at worst.battery was very good could crank for +5 mins if required
These figures led me to think faulty high pressure fuel pump or leaky injector, air leak somewhere.
No swarf was evident in fuel filter,injector leakoff test showed all within 10%
no air in system and hand primer solid after 2 or 3 pumps (head scratch time)
CAUSE OF FAULT
On the end of the fuel rail there is a pressure relief valve that has a constant bleed to return via a connection to the injector return pipe.
(I assume this is a safety feature to bleed the fuel rail of its high pressure to prevent injury to fiddling fingers if a pipe is loosened)
I removed the connection to this valve and plugged the pipe then attached a lenght of plastic clear pipe to the fuel rail. disconnected the electrics to all the injectors (to prevent engine start)
on canking I got 120 bar fp and a good flow of fuel up the pipe from the fuel rail.
With nowt to loose I removed the pressure valve from the rail (it was tight )gave it a clean and a blow off, cleaned the seat best I could in the rail.
refitted it connected pipe and injector electrics then cranked her up.
let her run for a couple o mins to ensure system fully air free then installed the clear tube on rail again as before with injector electrics disconnected.
on cranking this time :d 280 bar fp on the rail :d and only a small seep up the clear pipe.
RAIL PRESSURE DROPPED TO AROUND 40 BAR WHEN ENGINE WAS STOPPED THEN BLED AWAY EVENTUALLY TO 0 BAR SO BE WARNED THERE MAY BE PRESSURE IN THE SYSTEM FOR A WHILE AFTER ENGINE STOP.
reinstated all parts, engine started almost instantly on key turn
an took her for a 10 min spin.
on return performed the above test again but we were back to original results.
a quick call and visit to the local breakers yard and only £30 lighter in me pocket I had a replacement rail from an unstripped engine with no swarf in the filter, removed it an checked this myself.
Its been fitted 2 weeks now and the difference is :d, from cold key straight in and turn now starts as expected even when not waiting for preheat, 2 or 3 turns only.
this fault was intermittent to start with, gradually over the last year getting worse but latterly with the colder weather to the point that it was a pain daily.
I haven't found any mention of this fault / fix anywhere on this forum so thought it may help a few others with a starting problem, its easy to check and costs nowt to do.
IS IT SOMETHING THAT IS OVERLOOKED GENERALLY ?
IF YOU READ THIS AND IT RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM PLEASE LET US KNOW HERE TO ASSESS IF ITS A FAIRLY COMMON FAULT.