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2003 clio 1.2 16v high revving issue

6K views 14 replies 3 participants last post by  Phil48 
#1 ·
Please can anyone help, my son has the above Clio and was driving along normally when there was a loud bang under the bonnet and the electronics fault light came on and the engine now revs at nearly full rpm.
All gears engage and everything else works and starts OK, no further bangs but since the noise it revs extremely high.
He lives in Newcastle and I'm in Yorkshire so wondered if anyone had come across this before and any suggestions so that when I go up to try to sort it I have a starting point. Me and my mates thought either a fuel pipe has split , carb blocked and the bang was excess fuel firing, accelerator cable,wire or connection or sensor faulty. Obviously its hard for me as I havn't had a chance to look and listen to it myself but weird that it was driving fine and the high revs only started after the bang. Would really appreciate any ideas for monetary and time reasons.Cheers Ian
 
#2 ·
Not that many things that would bang and still let the engine run.
wonder if he ran over something.
Look for the charcoal cannister behind front bumper and make sure it's intact and no pipes split.
An air leak could cause the high revs.

If you have a code reader, take it with you.
 
#3 ·
Great thanks yes I have an ob11 reader. I'll check for air leaks and the canister. Is it worth taking all the inlet off to check and clean the throttle body. I also wondered if it could be the lamda or oxygen sensors. Thanks for your help so far Ill let you know how I get on.
Bloody Kids EH!!!!!!!!!
 
#5 ·
Yes I think I've shown my true ignorance in that first thread. I think the bang was just a pot hole or something like, I'm going to check for any leaks first with the fuel or air as that would probably cause high revs, then clean the throttle body, and check all the sensors for fuelling etc. After that I think it'll have to go to a garage as he lives so far away from me.
Cheers though and I'll let you know how I get on.
 
#7 ·
As everything is working like it should and the car sounds fine other than the very high revs I'm going to check for air leaks first, what is the charcoal can for.
Cheers for the advice so far though. going up on Sunday after work so fun and games in the dark and cold working in the street.
Kids Eh!!!!!! If its not one thing its yer mother.:eek:
 
#8 ·
The carbon or charcoal cannister allows fumes from the fuel tank to be drawn into the intake to be burned.

Google it for a more technical explanation.

Older cars just vented fumes into fresh air which brought about the extinction of dinosaurs....apparently.:d

Anyway, if the cannister or the pipe leading to the engine is damaged, it can cause an air leak.

Don't mention kids and cars. Been there, done that, still at it.:(
 
#9 ·
Right an update I did a 10 hour shift then drove 2.30 to Newcastle after about an hour found the major issue the push fit pipe to the inlet intake manifold had snapped at the male connector on the housing so sucking loads of air. I cleaned it up and then carefully glued with a flexible gel type glue. but still a slight air leak. I've been looking and it looks like i am going to have to buy a new/second hand inlet intake manifold to ensure a good none leaking male connector for the pipe that pushes on.
Unless and this is the question can you buy replacement male connectors to fit the intake and pipe it looks like it is just a push fit. the bang had been when it snapped the pipe and connector hit the underside of the bonnet.
 
#11 ·
I've managed to get a 2nd hand inlet/intake manifold with a sound lug for the pipe. From all acounts you have to buy the whole intake as the lugs are part of the housing. While I'm stripping the throttle body of the bbodged one ill give it a clean as ive been told they get dirty and effect running. Also getting a colour matched boot from the smae place. Ren Parts , they have been really helpful friendly and cheap. £18.50 for the manifold and £35 for the boot.If you hear frustrated screams i may be back in touch for help. Cheers for the help and advice so far. Ian:d
 
#12 ·
Well to anyone interested I think the saga is nearly over and while I had my sons car I got busy and feel that I know the thing like a friend.
removed and cleaned second hand and inlet manifold, cleaned injectors and throttle body, repaired rear and right hand engine mount,repaired perferted oil sump,oil and filter change,checked the timing and valves,repaired blowing exhaust and hanger, cleaned and lubricated the gear linkage and selector, changed the coolant, replaced the cracked MAP sensor, fiited and rewired a new tailgate as someone reversed into the old one.
Have I missed anything?
Thanks for all your advice and help:moonie:
 
#14 ·
Problem sorted, It was a combination of issues I think. The throttle body was full of Carbon which I cleaned with carb cleaner and Kitchen roll (No abrasive paper) the plastic lug that the intake pipe connects to on the manifold had cracked and when fault finding it came off in my hand but looked ok initially. You have to buy a whole manifold for the part which is annoying also while cleaning inside the manifold which was filthy with carbon and oil I noticed that the MAP sensor which is on the top left of the manifold near the ECU was not seated right, when I seat it in the hole it came of in my hand so that had either cracked or gone brittle with age. By watching you tube clips and a manual it was a long but reasonably easy job to do, however, anyone with the same problem should note that you will need a female Torx socket for the for 4 retaining bolts that hold the manifold to the head. I think it was about 5 mm. The other tools needed were tools that most of you would have, it would be worth you getting a 14inch drive small metric socket set or you won't be able to get to the 8 bolts that hold the manifold on to the front of the cylinder head.
Hope this helps and thanks to the people that offered advice. Cheers Ian:d
 
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