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1.5 dCi starting problems check list

128K views 84 replies 36 participants last post by  allanboland63 
#1 · (Edited)
There seems to be a recurring non-start problem with the 1.5 dCi; there have been numerous threads regarding this recently. Rather than type the same thing in response to each new poster, I thought it'd be good to make a check list of basic, initial tests to narrow down the problem. The thread can be linked to in future when a new non-start thread pops up.

This list is not exhaustive and is not necessarily designed to find the fault. It is designed to furnish you with a better picture of the health of various components of your engine that can affect starting. This thread is a starting point only: further research may be required by you after running these tests to determine the exact nature of the fault.

To anyone with a reasonable level of mechanical knowledge, this information will be teaching granny to suck eggs so it is not designed for you. I'm well aware that you know all of this information (and more) already. This is to help people who may not know about these things to check.

Much of the data has come from my (2001-2005 Clio) Haynes. If you haven't got a Haynes, buy one: it's cheap and will help you.

One last thing: the below is only to be used and acted upon if you have more than 2 brain cells. Please check to see if you're an idiot or not before trying any of these tests. If you find that you are an idiot, please do not procede any further. If you break your own car, it is your fault. You are an adult: make an informed, reasoned, balanced decision to continue. If you get a kick out of fixing things that are broken and enjoy saving money, please continue.




So, your dCi didn't (or struggled to) start this morning and you've just posted a thread about it on the forum.

Did it turn over fast or slowly?

Put a multimeter across the battery terminals with the engine off. What is the voltage? It should be ~12.6v (Haynes, 2010) or more.

Now put the multimeter across the terminals with the engine idling. What is the voltage? It should be between ~13.5v and ~14.8v (Haynes, 2010). If it is, congratulations; your alternator and auxilary belt are working well.

If your voltage is low at rest, your battery *may* be at fault, you may have a parasitic drain or your charging system may have a fault (which should show up in the idle test).


Are there any DTCs?

Diagnostic Trouble Codes. Ideally use CAN Clip or DDT2000 to read the Renault-specific codes. Alternatively, use a cheap eBay ELM327 wireless/bluetooth adapter and a free app (Torque for Android or something similar for Apple) to interrogate the car's ECUs.
If there are DTCs stored, what are they? Google the code to find out more.
The code could be a red herring! Delete all of them and run/start the engine again. Now reconnect the code reader and check for DTCs again. Are there any there or are they all gone? Any new ones now are likely to be genuine codes, not red herrings. Investigate these.

If a code points to a particular sensor, the resistance readings of that sensor can commonly be found in Haynes or online. Before condemning the sensor, test it with your multimeter!

Clean the TDC sensor.

Top Dead Centre.
This is recommended commonly on the forum for any non-start issue, including petrols. As the sensor collects ferrous particles over time, the signal to the ECU can become weak/erratic. A quick clean may solve your problem.
The sensor is located in the top of the bell housing.

Clean the EGR and intake pipe.

Another commonly recommended course of action is to clean the EGR and the inlet pipe, at the back of the engine. They can clog up and cause running issues. An ill-functioning EGR will likely (but not always) throw a DTC.

Are your glow plugs working properly?

Your engine prefers working glow plugs in order to start. The injection pressures in a DI diesel are usually enough to start the engine without glow plug assistance in all but the coldest climes, but having the plugs working properly certainly helps.
Using your multimeter, measure the resistance between the upper wiring contact and the glow plug body. You can do this in situ to save breaking out the socket set and potentially snapping a plug off in the head. Each plug should have a resistance of 0.6 ohms (Haynes, 2010).

*Check the inherent resistance in your multimeter leads before this test, then remove this number from the indicated glow plug resistance to get their true resistance!*

This is a good video of how to test your glow plugs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Po_1pNHE1Y
Yes, it's for a D5 engine but the principle is the same.

Have you got a voltage supply to your glow plugs?

Put the multimeter back to VDC and check that the glow plug supply wire is receiving voltage when the ignition is switched on. It should maintain a voltage for several seconds after the glow plug light has extinguised, too.

Carry out a leak off test.

If your injectors leak back too much fuel they will rob the rail of pressure and the car will struggle to start (if at all). This is a known mode of failure for DI diesel engines, especially ones using a common rail.
You will need 4 lengths of tubing to attach to the return line output of each injector and 4 bottles for each to drip their fuel into. This equipment can be bought for very little cost. I've used tubing from a DIY store and drinks bottles with holes cut in the caps before to run this test and it has worked perfectly.
The return lines are under no pressure so you won't cut a limb off with high pressure spray, don't worry.

Start the engine (use Easy Start if you have to) and allow it to idle for a few minutes, max. The permissible fuel leak back differs between manufacturers but if one (or more) of your bottles looks like this, you have a failed injector:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gaqx9ATOg3A
The other three injectors in that video are leaking back agreeable amounts and are fine.

Enjoy that video? I thought so. Here's another:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9pTdgxk20Y
After idling for ~1 minute, that guy has very little fuel in each cup. Did you notice how quickly and easily the engine started at the beginning? That was not a coincidence.

You are looking for consistancy here, not necessarily outright volumes. Searching Google and Youtube for 'Leak off test' should furnish you with all the information and examples you need to carry out this quick, easy, cheap and illuminating test.

If one or more of your injectors fail this test, they require refurbishment (specialist) or replacement. You can buy new or take a punt on a used one from a known-good engine. New or used, it'll likely require coding to your ECU. This can be done in CAN Clip or DDT2000, I believe. A suitably equipped garage or the main dealer can, of course, also do this.



That's the quick, basic list done.
Other faults can and will stop your car from starting, the above are just some common examples for the 1.5 dCi.

I've written all of this in relation to my 2003 Clio dCi 65 engine. I'm sure many are the same/similar but care should be taken with considerably different units (much newer, higher power output etc.) to ensure correct procedure and data.

If there are any Renault-specific glaring errors with any of the above or if you would like to add some more points for owners to check, chime in by all means.

:)
 
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#12 ·
Hi, does any one have a location of the TDC sensor on the 1.5DCI, our car is turning over with the odd fire. I am hoping the TDC sensor is at fault otherwise I'm thinking the Fuel pump could be the issue. Although the only code present is Glowplug relay, I know this wont help but it should start in this mild winter.
Ive looked in the obvious location which is middle of Engine/Gearbox.... please help so I can get to work in the new year :-(
 
#13 ·
I haven't found cause to look at mine just yet but understand it to be located in the top of the bell housing. Remember that it takes its signal from the flywheel so you'll find it around the periphery. You may need to move the hoses and wiring in the area to find it.
 
#14 ·
Carry out a leak off test.

If your injectors leak back too much fuel they will rob the rail of pressure and the car will struggle to start (if at all). This is a known mode of failure for DI diesel engines, especially ones using a common rail.
You will need 4 lengths of tubing to attach to the return line output of each injector and 4 bottles for each to drip their fuel into. This equipment can be bought for very little cost. I've used tubing from a DIY store and drinks bottles with holes cut in the caps before to run this test and it has worked perfectly.
Quick query on this, trying to do it on a 1.5dci 110ps 2008 Laguna engine as there is some random faults (ill put up a separate thread if this doesn't give answers). The issue is that the return line nearest the pump has a double outlet and the pipes are the hard plastic ones on it so don't pop off easily. Is it ok to man handles these off or are they under high pressure too?
 
#17 ·
Hi experts!
1.2 clio 2009 done 48k miles
Realised vehicle was using oil
Then did diagnostics and did coil packs and plugs..then did a couple of tanks of fuel..only getting average of 36 mpg .compression test good . Did exhaust splatter test..fuel being emitted ..any ideas?
Thanks in advance
 
#80 ·
im not having much luck with my 2007 1.5 dci kangoo mechanic has had it 3 weeks !! had me buy injectors which i doubt are the fault and he still has no clue what's wrong .....okay was driving along and the thing just cut out would turn over no problem but just will not start then red stop light comes on so gets towed to this garage and i dont think he knows his stuff too well any ideas??
 
#23 ·
Hello,

This is my first post on this forum, signed up to ask this question. Last week I bought megane (2005), 1.5 dci (60kw), ~250000km. This is first diesel that I own. What cause car shaking for ~30 seconds after it just started? Shakes are not very strong, and they are not constant, I mean it might be OK for five seconds and then shake once, then two seconds OK and shakes again, etc. After ~30 seconds it goes away and works without those shakes.
Maybe related maybe not, when I turn off the engine, the whole car shakes for a second (maybe because it's a diesel? or maybe a worn out engine mount?).

Thanks for your help!
 
#24 ·
The large shake when the engine shuts down does sound like a worn engine mount. They take a little more abuse on a diesel, when compared with a petrol.

For the overall shaking problem, I'd advise posting your issue as a separate new thread in the engines forum so other members can see it and hopefully help you. I'm not too sure what it could be at this stage.
 
#26 ·
Hi Guys I'm new. Got a bit of a sticky situation... Starters dud on my clio (2003 1.5Dci) (I've checked the battery, electronics, everything pretty much). When you go to start on the key all you get is the 'click' from the relays and occasionally the starter solonoid attempting to pop in. So decided to remove the starter. Annoyingly unlike other clio's on the 1.5 the starter is at the back, under the EGR and turbo... So i've removed the EGR, all the pipework and everything inlet wise besides the inlet manifold and turbo its self, also moved the coolant res and unclipped quite a few hoses! Managed to get to the starter and took out 2 of the 3 bolts holding it in, now i believe theres a 3rd one holding the starter underneith, i can't see it, i can't feel it, had my head squeezed into all kinds of nooks and crannies in and underneith the engine bay (even got it jacked up to see if that helps). Anyway after looking at pictures of other K9K starters it would appear there is a 3rd bolt. so was going to ask, does the starter on my clio have this 3rd bolt, and if it does, where is it and is there any easy/ logical way to get it out? as so far it would appear to me that renault really don't want people to get the starter off this engine! i'm a bit stuck at the moment, got it jacked up, parts off, tools everywhere and covered in oil so much help would be appreciated! oh yeah another thing worth mentioning, the whole entire engine bay, engine, gearbox and near enough everything is covered with either oil or coolant so i'm aware its got a very tiny minor slight leak on it... think the oil could be coming from the oil cooler! but yeah much help would be appreciated!
 
#27 ·
Give it a tap with a hammer shaft, see if it moves.
Some have a locating dowel on the gearbox, this might have it.
What pins have you managed to take off, one towards the top, and one at the bottom.
Have a look at this link, you will see two threads for starter motor pins, but the middle is a dowel locator , so if one in the middle, the bolt will come from the starter , not the gearbox, as the pin will have to fasten into the gearbox


FITS RENAULT/NISSAN 1.5 DCI K9K DIESEL MODELS BRAND NEW STARTER MOTOR | eBay
 
#28 ·
I've got the two pins out, tried tapping it from the top and bottom, wiggeling it, knocking it sideways, but it seems really stuck in there, and it doesn't help that the whole thing is covered with oil so i can't get a grip on it. tried cleaning it up but its quite hard to do in the limited clearence, so should i just keep tapping it like? other thing is theres no lip between the gearbox and starter plates so i can't get a screwdriver in there to prise it :/
 
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