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Renault Espace 1.9 dci oil leak

14K views 69 replies 7 participants last post by  rogerharris 
#1 ·
Good evening everyone!
Earlier this week the oil pressure light came on, I've had a slight oil leak since I got the car, but always kept an eye on it.
Today however I took the car apart to take a look at the EGR valve, which seemed ok, however we managed to break it in the removal process so going to have to replace that. There is a little oil inside the one of the air pipes and outside of the EGR valve was covered.

Down the back of the engine (where the turbo is located) the turbo itself isn't covered in oil but towards the nearside it is. The turbo whistles away as I expect it would, with no other strange noises.

Does anyone have any suggestions where the issue might lie? an oil seal in the turbo? I saw somewhere online that someone had a problem with the rocker cover gasket which created back pressure and caused an oil leak.

Any advice here would be very much appreciated right now! I've been told a new turbo is about £280 + VAT, but the location looks like a b17ch to get it replaced!

I've just had to replace the crank pulley, and since owning the car I;ve had to do all the brake pads, discs, electronic handbrake, and various other "little" jobs. I don't want to give up on the car!!

Thanks for taking the time to read my post!!!
 
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#2 ·
The pipe leading upto the turbo ,, (the oilfeed return pipe) this has a gasket at the top, ,
If this has a slight leak this will cause oil to splatter all over, as some can drop onto your drive shafts and spread the oil,,This pipe is held on by two pins, these fasten into the turbo..
( Think the engine you refer to is the 2.2 engine )
This pipe is corrugated,, careful, if upon closer inspection, this is where your leak is,, when taking the two pins out, you do not bend this pipe to much, as these can split..
Can not think of any thing else down the back of the DCI ,,, that will leak...
IT is awkward to get at, but it can be undone from under the car , surfaces cleaned, and a new gasket installed ,, make sure you screw the pins in by hand or using your small 1/4 drive socket, with an extension bar on, to screw the pins in, then use your ratchet to tighten up, cross a thread there, and you will be spending 280£
 
#4 ·
The oil level is showing as fine its the oil pressure that was the problem.

here are some pictures that we took when we removed the EGR valve ( which we ultimately broke in the process) do these give any clues?

I think you (ours2012) might be onto something with the pipe, but would this account for oil inside the air pipe?
 

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#6 ·
Hi Guys, Turbo came off today, the oil pipe joint is knackered, I purchased a new turbo and pipe kit at the weekend, my father in law managed to get the turbo off today for me. The pipe is obviously lose hence the oil everywhere on the outside, i was thinking that i might be able to reaplce just the oil feed pipe, but there is signs of oil in the air pipes, and the fronts of the turbo fins seem (just a little) sharp compared to the new one. should I refit the old turbo, or is the fact there is oil inside sings the seals/turbo is shot and should just replace it?

Thanks!

Karl
 
#8 ·
Evening all.
We've now replaced the turbo, the feed pipe, the EGR vavle, Oil filter and oil. however when the car goes over 2000 RPM the Oil and Stop light STILL come on! If I turn the engine off, and restart it the lights go off. They only come on if the engine goes over 2000 revs. Could it be the pressure switch or is it more likely to be the pump?!?!

Thanks
 
#9 ·
I purchased the pressure switch and went to fit it yesterday. When i removed the plug I thought I would see if the oil pressure light came on whilst it wasn't plugged in, and it did, would that suggest that it is infact an electrical issue, rather than an actual pressure issue?

Thanks.
 
#11 · (Edited)
With the ongoing saga with this car, the car was going into limp mode occasionally, the car also kept losing power AS well as more oil being expelled. We've removed the turbo, intake and exhaust manifold today but cannot see any "obvious signs" that "this is definitely the problem."

There does seem to be a lot of "oily residue" around the return pipe as noted on one of the pictures, however the oil seems old, the top\rear of the engine had a lot of fresh oil on it.

I've taken some pictures of the manifold's, and the gasket, can anyone advise on this at all please? I've got the point of despair with the car. Any help is appreciated right now!!

Also whilst the car is in pieces would it be worth doing the rocker cover gasket?


free upload
 
#12 ·
Id change the rocker gasket it's a cheap part and easily changed. I notice the flexi pipe on your egr is dry underneath so the oil is coming down I'd blame the rocker cover, is it tight?
 
#13 ·
Hi Everyone who might be reading this thread! Right, the Oil pressure light was down to the fact that the rocker cover wasn't biting down properly, so had to put that in a garage to get that helicored. whilst they were there I got them to replace the rocker gasket too.

Changed the manifold gasket, and replaced the manifold, all back together with no warning lights on the dash. great i thought. "Looks like we're onto something".

Started the engine and it was hesitant to rev, had to wait about two minutes for the engine to warm up before it would do anything other than idle. (slightly concerning)
anything over 1500RPM and there is a constant wooosh (i guess that is the turbo) as when i disconnect the Turbo solenoid it stops.

Took it for a drive, LOTS of black smoke! FANTASTIC!
Took it up a hill stressed the engine as much as i could..... into limp mode it goes.

I plugged in the fault code reader, and the code was
FAULT CODE - DESCRIPTION - FAULT
"DF301 - INLET AIR CIRCUIT - 1. DEF"

1.DEF is "Lack of air in inlet circuit."

Just opened up the air box and checked the filter, its reasonably clean so I got under the car and i can now see oil around the black pipe that enters the center of the turbo (I think this is the air intake) as well as on one of the alloy pipes that join a rubber hose that looks like it connects to bottom offside of the intercooler.

The turbo was replaced a few months ago, but i think this is now faulty. can anyone help or advise with this please? I've had the car now for just over a year, my wife has since become disabled, and this car has turned into a money pit. I cant afford to keep throwing money at it, nor can i afford to sell it. Should i find a replacement engine and find a garage willing to fit it?!

Please I really hope someone can help me!
 
#14 ·
Is egr ok,, if stuck open, loads of black smoke, the wooshing.
ALL the air pipes are tight, non lose,

This below, is def for your car, and not a generic interpretation of DEF 301

FAULT CODE - DESCRIPTION - FAULT
"DF301 - INLET AIR CIRCUIT - 1. DEF"

1.DEF is "Lack of air in inlet circuit."
 
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#16 ·
Have you done an egr reset,,, The original settings WILL be stored, if you have not told the car/ECU, its a new egr.
Not the same as cleaning, ( I know I am a sad tucker),
Find something new about these cars every bleeding day ...
( only found that out last week ), but by accident,,,not by design..
 
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#18 ·
Wooshing is usually a pipe loose, either off the intercooler, or the pipes going to the turbo.
These are normally easy to find,, can of brake cleaner, with the straw in place.
Spray around the joints.
Black smoke, egr, or air filter, first things to check

Egr is .
Click on the spanner symbol ( repair), and follow instructions ( hope I have that right),
 
#19 ·
I've just been out to the car, and on the tool there is a bit that says "EGR" and then there is an option to "validate" so i've done that, (i think i had done that before, but then i noticed there is a monitoring section. here are two screens shots, one of the car ideling and the other at about 2300 revs.

I notice the EGR is 73% on load, and 5% on idle, so I guess that is normal?

Thanks for the pointers!
 

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#22 ·
Can you post your vehicle type code,,
You should find it by doing this
Load software, ( dont connect to the car )
Sensor not found, close.
Top line FILE DIAGNOSTIC, click on diagnostic, then diagnostic report, click this.
Then consult, and it will show you four letters/numbers.
That.
Then can see if it gives a test procedure for you.
 
#24 ·
Ah,, Ok next time you do a diagnostic, fill out the diagnostic report,,
It will be on the screen that you can see the fault codes.
Bottom. diagnostic report associated with this car, or something like that.
Fill it in, tick at least one box, in each section, then next, follow to the end, then save.
Make sure you have your pdf creator installed.
These should then come visible to consult

..

Will switch partitions, as think you might need to enter another subsection also.
But will check back in 10
 
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