Hello Folks,
Ref: 2003 Laguna 2.2dci 'Privilege' Sport Tourer
After an extensive year long refit, with many 'upgrades' I arrive at starting the engine.
Most relevant changes are: Timing belt and clutch system. With regards to the latter, I had opted to convert from Dual Mass Flywheel to a Single Mass unit.
On starting, there was the understandable reluctance for the engine to start, mostly fuel bleeding issues. After an afternoon of turning over the engine, the battery (upgraded to an 85Ah/ 800cca Yuasa) run out of oomph. But just before it died altogether, there was one solitary 'cough'. Second afternoon, battery now fully recharged and continued the starting, which on around the fifth attempt resulted in the engine firing up. It spluttered into life and ran for 10 seconds, then stopped dead. The onboard synth voice informed me there was a 'Fuel Injection issue' - consult your Renault dealer. I ignored this and continued, the engine started to warm up and run smooth, but only for 10 seconds with the same warning (until I turned her off...). The engine would not tick over, but did rev out to around 2000 rpm, then died as before. This on each repeated attempt.
Now in reading various comments on one of our forums, someone had experienced a similar issue, which he resolved by changing what he called the TDC sensor at the rear end of the bell housing. Haynes call this item the TDC/Crank Speed sensor. I disconnected this device to see what happened. The engine would not start at all. On re-connection, the same thing happened, it would run for 10 seconds and stop.
Now there are two main sensors on this engine for determining the timing. One is on the fuel pump, the other being the aforementioned crank case sensor (...which I am doubting is a TDC sensor). However, if it is a TDC sensor, then how can it sense the TDC, when the flywheel is different? Let alone allow the engine to run at all....
Remember, the engine runs, more or less as sweet as a nut, but only for 10 seconds. During the refit, the ECU was removed, all electrical connections connected to the engine systems were cleaned and refitted.
Other 'upgrades' included the fitting of an improved Concentric Slave Cylinder, along with new 'aeroquip' hosing and Lockheed master cylinder. Alternator was replaced with a 180 amp unit. New stainless inserts/liners in the vertical intake ports (to resolve the oil leaking issues within the rocker cover), new Gates timing kit and gaskets. Full intake and EGR clean and the fitting of a coolant coil to the EGR cross pipe.
I suspect an ECU code fault. Although the onboard display does not verify this, during those ten seconds the display depicts a 'bar graphic' that counts up to around five or six bars and the words 'Test of Control System' are displayed. But the worrying aspect is this TDC sensor. Because obviously with a completely different flywheel, if this is the problem, then for me it is back to the drawing board. Though I cannot understand why the engine starts and runs, if this was the case.
Any 'professional' insights or advice would be extremely welcome at this juncture, as I really need to get this vehicle back on the road pronto. Thanks in advance,
Deebz
Ref: 2003 Laguna 2.2dci 'Privilege' Sport Tourer
After an extensive year long refit, with many 'upgrades' I arrive at starting the engine.
Most relevant changes are: Timing belt and clutch system. With regards to the latter, I had opted to convert from Dual Mass Flywheel to a Single Mass unit.
On starting, there was the understandable reluctance for the engine to start, mostly fuel bleeding issues. After an afternoon of turning over the engine, the battery (upgraded to an 85Ah/ 800cca Yuasa) run out of oomph. But just before it died altogether, there was one solitary 'cough'. Second afternoon, battery now fully recharged and continued the starting, which on around the fifth attempt resulted in the engine firing up. It spluttered into life and ran for 10 seconds, then stopped dead. The onboard synth voice informed me there was a 'Fuel Injection issue' - consult your Renault dealer. I ignored this and continued, the engine started to warm up and run smooth, but only for 10 seconds with the same warning (until I turned her off...). The engine would not tick over, but did rev out to around 2000 rpm, then died as before. This on each repeated attempt.
Now in reading various comments on one of our forums, someone had experienced a similar issue, which he resolved by changing what he called the TDC sensor at the rear end of the bell housing. Haynes call this item the TDC/Crank Speed sensor. I disconnected this device to see what happened. The engine would not start at all. On re-connection, the same thing happened, it would run for 10 seconds and stop.
Now there are two main sensors on this engine for determining the timing. One is on the fuel pump, the other being the aforementioned crank case sensor (...which I am doubting is a TDC sensor). However, if it is a TDC sensor, then how can it sense the TDC, when the flywheel is different? Let alone allow the engine to run at all....
Remember, the engine runs, more or less as sweet as a nut, but only for 10 seconds. During the refit, the ECU was removed, all electrical connections connected to the engine systems were cleaned and refitted.
Other 'upgrades' included the fitting of an improved Concentric Slave Cylinder, along with new 'aeroquip' hosing and Lockheed master cylinder. Alternator was replaced with a 180 amp unit. New stainless inserts/liners in the vertical intake ports (to resolve the oil leaking issues within the rocker cover), new Gates timing kit and gaskets. Full intake and EGR clean and the fitting of a coolant coil to the EGR cross pipe.
I suspect an ECU code fault. Although the onboard display does not verify this, during those ten seconds the display depicts a 'bar graphic' that counts up to around five or six bars and the words 'Test of Control System' are displayed. But the worrying aspect is this TDC sensor. Because obviously with a completely different flywheel, if this is the problem, then for me it is back to the drawing board. Though I cannot understand why the engine starts and runs, if this was the case.
Any 'professional' insights or advice would be extremely welcome at this juncture, as I really need to get this vehicle back on the road pronto. Thanks in advance,
Deebz