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Renault clio 1.4 1999 issues **Sorted**

15K views 148 replies 8 participants last post by  Kamikazzee 
#1 ·
Hi all, I have an Renault clio 1.4 1999 that has has recently started playing up and now is unusable. The car initially had a idling problem which caused the car to have a very rough idle to (attempt to fix this) we replaced the TPS sensor, Map sensor and the ICV, on the intake. But sadly that never fixed the issue to we replaced the coolant temp sensor and that two did not fix the issue. We then had to use the car so we just turned up the revs to 1000rpm to get by so that we could use the car for a bit but at the end of the week the car didn't want to start. The car would start and when it did it would start at 4000rpm then after about 5-10 seconds would fall to 2000 and keep bouncing up to 4000 and down to 2000. Prior to I'd doing this the car (in the week that it was working with turned up revs) began being lethargic at acceleration and due to this I have decided that the fault could be to do with the crank position sensor so I have ordered this part today (25/10/16) and hopefully this can solve the issue. If anyone can give any insight or ideas that would be great as the car is amazing otherwise when it runs and it's much cheaper then my alternative car to fuel. If you have any ideas that would be great, thanks for reading it all anyways. Regards Kamikazzee
 
#3 ·
Hi, Thanks for your reply.
The issue isnt a "rough idle" the issue is that the car revs between 2000RPM and 4000RPM image the car dropping to 2000RPM them stepping on the throttle till it hits 4000RPM then letting go of the throttle and repeating the process over and over. That is what is happening to the car. On initial startup of the car it starts at 6000RPM before dropping the the "Bouncing" loop of 2000RPM to 4000RPM, The plugs and oils of the car have been replaced, also the coilpacks have been tested.

Kind Regards Kamikazzee
 
#5 ·
Yeah sorry about that my wording of the problem wasn't the greatest, anyways to answer your question the spark plugs, the coil pack , leads and the oils were all replaced about a week ago (just prior to using the car for the week) so the car has barley done about 200 Miles on the spark plugs and rest, just in case i have just checked them to make sure that they are dry and that they have not broke off ar anything of that sort and they all look still brand new.7

Regards Kamikazzee
 
#6 ·
Can we go through one section at a time,...
See if we can get the idle back first,
The car initially had a idling problem we replaced the TPS sensor,
This position sensor, is it the one that is held on by a couple of torq screws?

We will come back asking about this (Map sensor and the ICV, on the intake. the coolant temp sensor) ,...

We then had to use the car so we just turned up the revs to 1000 rpm ,,, How was this done?
Regards Kamikazzee[/QUOTE]
 
#7 ·
Hi ours2012, alright so the throttle is cable driven (so you can physically bring up the idle of the car by turning a screw on the tension er of the butterfly valve on the intake) the car is the PHASE1 MK2, just to clarify. And yes the sensor (TPS) is held onto the throttle body with 2 torq screws. I have uploaded a picture of the sensor that has been replaced (Picture from google just FYI)

Regards Kamikazzee
 

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#9 ·
Hi, i have an entirely different throttle body, its one of these... and the screw has been since set to minimum (meaning the butterfly valve is compeltley shut and i have also been setting the screw bit by bit to open the butterfly valve but this just caused the bouncing to go from 2k-4k to 3k-5k)

Regards Karol
 

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#13 ·
So you have changed the TPS, and the ICV,,
But you have also turned the screw.
The TPS is just a screw on so not much adjustment,,,
You need to get the screw you have adjusted back to as close as damn it before you started...
Now disconnect your accelerator, take it off, or make sure it is that lose it can not in any way interfere,,
Your ICV. now needs undoing and taking out, .
This needs an initial setting point,, See if the internal valve is all the way back.
Do not , under any circumstances, switch the ignition on with the connector connected and the part not in place.
Look at the opening that this valve has come out of,,,
Is it all clean, get a torch and have a good look, and with one of your fingers.
Feel if it has a ridge inside, from wear,....
If it feels worn, then you need that part.
If not really worn, and is now clear, then screw the Idle control valve back in,,
But leave it slightly lose, that is not tightened and you can slightly wobble the valve, Put the connector back on. Switch the ignition on, but dont start the car.
Switch the ignition back off, now tighten the screws holding the valve in place.
Once done, now switch the ignition back on, wait for the valve to stop moving.
You need to do this 5 times, on the 5th time, Start the car, do not touch the accelerator, allow to get to operating temperature...
See if that will give you an idle and power..
Then start looking at other things giving you problems....
 
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#14 ·
Hi, ours2012.
So i just got back from trying the entire list, and sadly im still at square one. I have checked the throttle body to make sure nothing is damaged inside where the actuator is and it is clean. I completed the list and started up the car, upon starting up the car the car revved to 6000RPM, and then whent back into the loop of "bouncing" after about 2 mins the engine got to temperature due to the higher revs, and the car stopped "bouncing" and idled at 3000RPM. So what ive realised from this is setting the screw back to where it was it caused an increase in RPM's and has increased the bouncing from bouncing from 2k - 4k to bouncing from 4k-6k. IM honestly so confused by this car and because its a phase 1 mk2 the documentation on it is ridiculously poor. Anyways thanks, if you come up with anything else give me a shout.

Regards Kamikazzee
 
#18 · (Edited)
Need to ask, your IACV, You have not let its internal parts at any time come all the way out, in testing.
Having it connected but not in place,
Can you take it back off, and make sure the internal plunger goes all the way back.
P.S. the oring is still fitted, that seals the IACV to the throttle housing...
 
#19 ·
The IACV was not pulled out all the way when testing, i tested the plunger and it goes in all the way back and yes the orings are still there sealing the IACV, I never connected the IACV outside of the throttle body as i have had experiance with IACV's shooting out before. Sadly there is no OBD data as the obd computer i have does not want to read any of the data on the car, and when the car is taken to the mechanic there are no "faults" that show up or the mechanics have the older OBD tool that no longer work with the car.

Regards Kamikazzee
 
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