3 days ago the nightmare with my 2006 Scenic 2 1.6 16V happend. The 30.000 km old timing belt jumped over and killed 8 Exhaust Valves and the rocker arms also the hydraulic lifters are damaged.
So my idea was to buy a used Cylinderhead instead of repairing the old one.
So my Engine code is K4M 812 but in Germany there is only one expensive 812 Head.
So my question is what is under the K4M the difference in the heads ok there are the VVT but for example a 766 have also VVT will it fit ? or is it in generall that all K4M engines with VVT have the same head ?
The K4J will fit too, but doesn't have VVT. All the K4 series blocks are the same.
Some of the engine numbers are slight changes. For instance, mine has a different dipstick arrangement.
There was a VVT upgrade about 2006, that may be why the 812 suffix. But you could use your existing one.
Gluck Auf.
So the Scenic is back since Yesterday evening in my Garage. The Exhaust Cam is on one cylinder with scratches destroyed. So I found now by Ebay used heads with exact the same Nr.
so I have found a Head is from a Modus with Nr. 790 but the Head Nr. is the same.
But it seems that the rockers and the lifters are not in. So I will check how many rockers by me are damage maybee all 8 from the exhaust site but only one lifter is mechanical damaged.
Do you think I can re use the old lifters ?
I have found a tightning plan for the valvecover but the seal for it Loctite 518 can I use another Car Silicon grease ?
you can buy the stuff from renault they call it sealing resin - got tube in boot of my scenic but not near car till saturday to get part number... cost GBP £20 - see end of this post
if you had been u.k got a fullset of lifters / rockers from my old broken head as was on tick over only damage was 8 bent exhaust valves rest look ok but would not be 100% sure
Should be no damage. Just clean, do not dismantle. As they are alien to the new head, they need resetting. In a vice, with wooden spacers to protect shiny bits, gently squeeze until they bottom out. Oil will be ejected. Once done, store in pot of clean oil until installed. There WILL be a rattle on start up, until they settle.
So I have now all parts odered. Also the 2 camshaft seals what will require that I dismount the Camshaft wheels. I have the rule for the camshaft on the gearbox site and also the MOT-1490 for locking the wheels. What is with the dephaser and the locking pin ? can I open and close the nut without destroying ?
locking pin ? do you mean flywheel timing pin this is not to lock flywheel but to use to set the timing the crankshaft there a tool for flywheel locking = sealey vs1284
do not use just the flat bar locking tool into slots, on camshafts to hold when undoing camshaft pulleys IT WILL BEND!!!.......... dont ask how I KNOW!
you need the tool with 4 pins into cam pulleys and bolts onto long stud out of cylinder head, Camshaft Exhaust pulley is solid and 18mm nut - very, very tight : Camshaft pulley on inlet is the dephasher and has a blanking plug to remove via Torq socket then is a bolt again very, very tight
I needed 2ft breaker bar and a hammer shock to crack these off and I'm a big guy and it was almost impossible for me to move.
The Dephaser is locked, until engine up to temperature & above certain revs. So when cold it doesn't alter position. You should be able to hold the cam & when moving the "gear", the dephaser should be in lock. If not, should drop into locked position by twisting a few degrees. Must be in this position to ensure correct timing.
Yes, you can remove the nut safely. But I decided it was better to leave it undisturbed, when I did mine.
As this system only relies on clamping the gears to cams & Crank. Absolute cleanliness of all mating parts is essential, especially free of oil or grease.
I decided to leave the intake camshaft with the VVT from the old head like it is and build them in the new head without change the seal. The exhaust cam is destroyed and the new one comes without any wheel so must mount the wheel from the old one to the new and here I will replace the seal.
Today the cylinderhead will arrive then I change the waterpump clean the surfaces and will mount the new head.
I have news. The Head is on the block , the new waterpump in , the timing pulley new , exhaust is also connected , all water pipes reconnected.
So then the suprise comes , my dealer lose the exhaust sprocket ok for this I have buyed the tool 1490 ok I fit in the 2 cams put the exhaust one in vertical position with the renault logo and the dephaser also with the marking on the top. Try to insert the tool not possible WTF.... the dephaser sprocket is one tooth to the left. Ok some thinking why ... maybee the dealer also removed it or is it not locked ... try to move it no not possible it must be in lock position. Ok not longer waste time I must remove the dephaser the cap and the screw seems to be untouched. Compare the Oil holes with pictures from the internet to be sure thats locked and it is locked... So today I will put in new camshaft seals refit the sprockets in the right timing position.
the crank and cams have NO keyways and are held by friction from very tight nuts - hence must be 100% clean and oil free
timing pin in block into crank - flat bar into slot camshafts - All 3 pulleys LOOSE - cam ex / cam inlet (depasher) and crank, the bolts that hold these 3 just nipped up - bolt on 4 pin lock to hold / set cam pulley AFTER flat bar in slot on camshaft, then fit belt tension and fully tighten pulley bolts - rotate by hand 2x, test timing pin / bar / tool still fits
depasher come locked and only unlock after certain revs and via oil pressure when engine running - so will be locked with engine off
But a little thing what I must look for... Today I have make the drive to work with the OBD2 Tester and have seen that the L.T. Fuel Values are over 19... so I think I have somewhere on the Intake a leak.
So found the leak somewhere around Cylinder 1 the gasket of the Aluminium intake or the injector seal ring.
Can see it on the OBD scanner when I use the brake cleaner