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Fault Code Reader - worthwhile investment for me?

19K views 22 replies 8 participants last post by  ours2012 
#1 ·
On startup, my car (details in sig) does its system check and then reports SERVICE in orange. When I bought it, I just assumed that it was telling me it was overdue for a routine service. D'UH!

Now I understand that it means the car has detected a non-fatal fault somewhere and I need to go to a Renault to check it out. Yuk, that's the costly option, I think.

Halfords quoted me £49 to do a one-off diagnostic check. But now I've seen that I could buy my own car fault code reader (e.g. 2016 Universal Car Fault Code Reader D900 OBD2 EOBD CAN Diagnostic Scanner Tool | eBay )for far less than that, and use it multiple times on multiple vehicles. Seems a no-brainer, as far as I can see.

My issue is that some reading around tells me that some/many of these readers struggle with diesel engines before 2004. My car is 2004, although obviously the engine was developed a few years before then.

Then there are various types - OBD, OBD2, EOBD, EOBD2, and possibly others. That's Double-Dutch to me, so could someone tell me what the differences are?

Which type is good for my car? I only want something basic, just so I can understand what the car thinks is wrong with it. A blown bulb or a potential engine failure? I'd really like to know!
 
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#2 ·
Have you checked, does it need a service,, windscreen wiper stalk, press the tip , scroll through, different things will appear..
Does the one you have linked to, cover your Laguna
 
#3 ·
Modern cars can be a nightmare without a reader.
Would always have one in my toolkit.
But a reader is not a substitute for thinking and generic can lead you astray as codes are generic and may not accurately define the problem.

Basics
OBD and OBD2 are the worldwide standards, OBD2 the latest.
EOBD(2) are the European equivalents and the protocol that Euro cars are produced to.
To all intents and purposes for the average DIY, the same.

The protocols only cover engine faults, ie what is in the ECU.
So forget airbags or bulbs and the like, not included.

Cheap readers will only cover the ECU and OBD protocols, more expensive will get you deeper into the car and into specifics for the make.
Pays your money, takes your choice. Professionals will almost certainly invest heavily into top range all singing and dancing.
DIY...cheap as chips do the same as more expensive OBD2 readers but are more likely to be clones that may not work, pays your money takes your pick.

Stick ELM327 into ebay, hundreds of the things.
The wifi and Bluetooth ones will happily connect to your mobile (smart) phone and turn that into a usable scanner.
With decent App, Torque on android, can get real time readouts that may help with what is happening as well as error codes.
Couple of quid from Hong Kong, fiver from UK... do a job.
Wifi enabled gets you into IOS and Android and less likely to be a cheap clone... if you can find a true V1.5 (don't trust the advert wording) can get into one app that is specifically for Renault and gets into other controls then the ECU.

Caveat Emptor but as good a starting point as any.

Whether they will get into your diseasal ??
While protocol only became mandatory for diesels after 2004, never an issue getting codes from my Scenic (54 plate) and though cannot get codes from my Kia (2002) can get some live readings.
 
#5 ·
Modern cars can be a nightmare without a reader.
Would always have one in my toolkit.
But a reader is not a substitute for thinking and generic can lead you astray as codes are generic and may not accurately define the problem.
Thank you for taking the trouble to give a succinct but detailed answer. The first learning point I've gleaned is that there's no point at all in me buying a cheap hand-held scanner, because an ELM327 thingie linked to a standard phone or laptop will be cheaper and do a much better job.

The protocols only cover engine faults, ie what is in the ECU.
So forget airbags or bulbs and the like, not included.
I'm fine with that. I can use basic common sense for much of the non-ECU stuff, I think (hope).

Stick ELM327 into ebay, hundreds of the things.
Jeebus wept!!! You're not kidding there.

The wifi and Bluetooth ones will happily connect to your mobile (smart) phone and turn that into a usable scanner.
I'm currently down to two from which to choose - both look like they're from the same UK-based seller. One uses Bluetooth and the description from the seller says "The bluetooth module is always the cheapest one available and gives limited range and stability"; the other uses wifi and the description says "The WIFI module is always the cheapest one available and gives limited range and stability". My head hurts trying to understand these boys.

In your experience, is Bluetooth or wifi more reliable, convenient, etc.? I'll probably want to connect to my old Android phone most (via Torque Lite to begin with), but it would be nice to have the option of the unit being able to connect to my iPhone (via dashcommander, most likely) in the future.


..... if you can find a true V1.5 (don't trust the advert wording) can get into one app that is specifically for Renault and gets into other controls then the ECU.
This comment has left me a bit puzzled, I'm afraid. I looked up the wiki page for ELM327 and it suggests in the section about pirate clones that there's no such thing as a "true v1.5". It says "Released software versions for the ELM327 are 1.0, 1.3a, 1.4b and 2.1 only. .... Most of the clones are reporting ELM327 v1.5, despite the fact that Elm Electronics does not have a version 1.5."
 
#7 ·
OK I Have the WiFi One. Works in Scenic & Trafic.
Reason for WiFi, is that my Lappy doesn't have Bluetooth. Therefore I can connect to my Phone, Tablet & Lappy without having to swap ELMs.
If buying from ebay, check which ones come with software. Also acquire from an English seller. There's a better chance of a good one & easier to return if not compatible. Mine looks like this one. But can't remember from whom I bought.ELM327 WiFi/WLAN CANBUS OBD OBD2 Interface Car Diagnostic Scanner iPhone iPad UK | eBay

With OhNo for Renault does EPB's & Airbags too.
OhNo! Diagnostics

Read Here too Car diagnostic interfaces ELM327 OBD2 - Outils OBD Facile
 
#8 ·
We're running Fiat MES with a cloned cheapo ELM327. It worked fine out of the box on the free motor ecu but when we paid for SRS and EPS access the thing sat down. Turned out some of these interfaces have resistors bridging pins in the plug that interferes with comms. You will see elaborate solutions with new components in the two legs in question. I desoldered the offending resistor and now it talks to EPS and SRS no problem.
 
#15 ·
I got my ELMS327 on Friday so a friend and I had a play with it yesterday. Got Torque Lite on my Android phone.

My car is reporting one fault on Torque Lite - P0380 - which apparently indicates "DTC Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" Malfunction" according to https://www.obd-codes.com/p0380

For some reason OhNo didn't install yesterday, but I tried again just now and it installed fine. Almost certainly an issue with the phone, which is the basicest of basic smartphones.

I'm wondering how important or urgent it is to resolve a P0380. Glow plugs only have any impact when starting up, and I've never had an issue with the starting unenthusiastically. They also are more important in cold weather, so as it's March, perhaps I should leave any fixing to about October or so? Is there any danger of knock-on problems if I delay fixing it? Might a problem with glow plugs cause my battery to discharge more than usual when the ignition is 'on' but I've not yet hit the 'start' button?
 
#16 ·
You've hit on one of the fault codes that often sends people in the wrong direction.
Many generic data bases relate this to a faulty glow plug module or relay.
Which people duly change and still have the error.

The glow plug circuit puts a continuous low current feed through the glow plugs and detects is any go faulty.
With that code I would suspect one of your glows is dead.
If two go feet up, usually get a service light as well.

Multimeter time.
Check each glow plug for resistance to earth from top connector (pull leads, similar to a spark plug)
Should read a low (couple of ohms) resistance.
Infinity (usual for a failed) indicates duff glow plug
Zero indicates a duff plug that has shorted to earth (unusual)
Is only the latter that will/may cause a current drain or fuses to blow.
To check relay, should be able to read a 12v feed, certainly when starting but probably at ignition on, on each of the lead ends.
No real worries until temps drop to zero when lack of glows can make a significant difference to DCIs.
Otherwise they are more to do with emissions control.
 
#18 ·
Buying a better scanner won't cure service light as it's NOT a fault. Get it serviced. Then do a long press on the wiper stalk button.
 
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#19 ·
I was lead to believe that the SERVICE light on Renault is like the engine management light on other cars.After having an O2 sensor replaced the mechanic erased all codes but the service light has come back on. He did reset the service interval as he thought that triggered the light.
 
#21 ·
Did the work on my Laguna yesterday with a friend having bought 4 new unbranded glow plugs from an eBay seller for £16.50. Might turn out to be a false bargain but I tested them first and all 4 showed resistance of just less than 1 ohm on my new multimeter (£6.99 from eBay).

Removed the plastic engine cover and set about dismantling the first injector unit. Then realised it was an injector unit so stopped dismantling it and looked for the glow plug instead. :)

Then realised it might be a good idea to disconnect the battery before going further, so did that.

Whipped out the old glow plugs and tested them. Three were less than 1 ohm, the other was through the roof. Chucked the duff one - kept the three that might be useful in future one day. Decided to put all four of the new ones in.

Putting the new ones in was easy enough, but the 'slim-jim' 10mm socket was annoyingly just too short to get good purchase on it to release it once the plug had been screwed in. Had to use a variety of pliers and a fair bit of cunning to get the socket detached from each of the newly installed plugs!

Reconnected the battery, ELMS unit in the ashtray, key card in, start button pressed ........ started fine! YAY!! But dash still saying 'SERVICE'.

TorqueLite on, still shows P0380 as logged fault. Cleared that fault. Now no faults showing up. But dash still saying 'SERVICE'.

Boot up OhNo!. Detects no faults in Engine element, but tells me I've got a "B1003/9003 - Computer" fault in the HID section and a "B1050/9050 CAN Network Fault" in the Airbag element. I'm not getting any airbag or lights related warning lights on the dashboard, so for the moment I'm going to assume that either these faults are historic and just haven't been cleared, or aren't impeding the operation and/or safety of the vehicle.

The lights seem to be working fine and the car passed its MOT test fine just a few weeks ago. As for airbags ..... I'll try not to crash.

BUT ...... one of the things we forgot when disconnecting the battery is that on reconnection I need to re-enter the radio/CD's code ..... which I don't have because I bought the car without the Owners Manual and related gubbins. Is the only solution to go to my Renault dealer? Will they charge me for looking it up?
 
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