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Aux belt

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aux belt
5K views 42 replies 9 participants last post by  shaunys1210 
#1 ·
Hi all has anybody on here changed an aux belt, pump and pulleys on a megane iii 1.4 tce? Please share your experiences with us, was it easy?hard? Mine needs doing so I'm just wondering wether it's a diy job or garage job.

Thanks
 
#4 ·
Wish I had young eyes,, can not make any of that out..
If I said it was easy, would that be, 1, because I have 3 trolley jacks, and lots of pairs of axle stands, 2 a vast array of different spanners, 3 very small hands, Or 4 I know what I am doing.
To me it is a straight forward job,,, But as Brendan has pointed out, if it went pear shape, could you put it right... With the tools you have, with the patience needed, not to spit the dummy out.
Most jobs are straight forward, if you have patience..
Without this, not a chance........
A weekend ,,,, will do it , if you give yourself this amount of hours, easy.
if you try and do it in book time of 3 hours, you could become unstuck..
I would be the last to put anyone down from having a go.
Work out if you have the tools, and the patience..
If yes, then go for it, taking plenty of photos of each part you have removed,
 
#5 ·
True, patience is something I'm limited with but I never give up lol, looking at it from the top of the car it looks pretty straight forward, it's getting the pullleys off, would they be tight to get off? Would I lose a significant amount of coolant? Would the car really need to be jacked up? I'm thinking you've got too many jack stands and jacks ;) it's my birthday soon lol care to share? No I'm only joking, when I put my mind to it I can get things done, wether I'm all cut up and running out of swear words to use lol I can never find anything on google about my car, just the same problems, no help though I swear by this site now ;)
 
#6 ·
If never been touched before, all these parts WILL NOT be tight.
If already replaced, they will be tight.
You have at this point, the chance to change all the antifreeze, do it.
It is a missed service part on cars, and causes rust to build up.
You will always need to get the top mount of the engine off..
How will the water pump come out.
Aux belt only goes on, with the letters/numbers being able to be read, when fitted,, from over the drivers wing..
Make sure the area, that the water pump bolts to, is clean, no gasket left on.
Check the water pump is correct, not by numbers, but by your eyes, double check length, width, and depth of impeller , .....
Is your thermostat good, once water pump is replaced, thermostats can play up.
Be ready, and expect this to happen. Dont take it for granted, it is something you have done, when changing a water pump, that thermostat is ok afterwards..
We will all help, just be ready for the unexpected bill. It does happen
 
#13 ·
If never been touched before, all these parts WILL NOT be tight.

.........Check the water pump is correct, not by numbers, but by your eyes, double check length, width, and depth of impeller , .....
And that's the big problem with doing these things, you can't tell if the part you have bought looks the same until you have taken the part off, by which time given what you have undone and destroyed in the process, you are kind of stuck, particularly so when you have not another vehicle.

I didn't use to baulk at jobs such as this, I have rebuilt engines and even pulled an engine at the side of the road to fix a clutch release bearing but these days, I just don't have the bottle to even think to attempt jobs such as these, and I no longer have the tools anyway, where I will say, the loss of one's tools is a massive confidence destroyer ergo, the purchasing of tools inspires confidence or at least adventure and learning.

So what I do now is just get the parts I need and entrust the job to a local work from home mechanic. As to parts, that water pump, what I have bought looks the same as what was fitted last to an earlier Energy 1390 to hope it fits a later K series 1390, where my timing belt job is booked for the week after next, where here's hoping **** doesn't happen in the mean time.
 
#7 ·
Have an explore before removing old belt.

Jack up and support belt side of car (I assume driver's side)
Remove wheel and inner wheel arch cover(s)
Should be able to have a good look at belt now.
Photos......
Find tensioner and how to release, often stick a socket/spanner on and twist against spring.
Have a look at pulleys, can you see how to undo or is there a dust cap that needs popping out.... got the tool to undo? May be a socket or a large torx bit.
Do you need to remove anything else to get belt off and access pulleys?
If doing the water pump, got access ?
Take more photos.

Once you have the bits and tools and did I mention photos? plan on getting started..... plan for when you have time and weather on your side.
Looking at the engine pic, should be straightforward but access is likely to be the bugbear, hence the reconnaissance before starting.

If including water pump, plan on complete coolant change as Ourkid says, 5 years is good life even with modern anti freezes.
 
#8 ·
Cheers, so it would be good practice then to change thermostat at same time to prevent it failing after doing all the work? How do you flush the old coolant out of the system? I've seen YouTube videos where they empty the radiator and fill up the coolant res with water, drain radiator again and fill with water, keep doing this till the water is more or less clean then go ahead and fill with proper coolant, is this right or a big no?
 
#11 ·
Dunno about changing the thermostat but deffo worth keeping in mind. Ourkid will have better experience on whether must, should or think on changing.

Draining coolant..... if what you have in looks clean and bright, don't fuss overly much on getting all the cr4p out, there won't be much.
Drain, fill with water, run up to temp, let cool, drain, fill with coolant at right concentration.
If looking a bit mucky, drop a dishwasher tablet in expansion tank, run up to temperature and go for a drive, give it a couple of hours to work, let cool, drain and flush well, couple of fill, heat and drain with clean water. If fancy type with powerball, take the ball out.

Always let cool before opening system.
Never put cold coolant/water into hot system.

Not sure where bleed points on your system will be, may be on heater hoses, almost certainly one on thermostat housing. You will need to open when filling system.
If heater is higher then fill point an extension to raise filling point may be needed, cut end off 2ltr soft drink bottle to make a tall funnel, duct tape to seal into filler.
 
#9 ·
Thanks, I'm presuming the coolants the same as when it came from factory, nothing in service history or receipts to say it's been done, and nothing to say belts or pulleys have been done, photos are a big help we all know that ;) on a plus pics will be there to help others too ;)
 
#14 ·
I ain't that confident lol, wish I could do that by the road if I needed to, the motor place I go to say they have everything you need, they look in their massive book or quick look on their computer and off you go lol, shame fitting it isn't like that, can I really go wrong with buying a water pump and it being a straight swap?im confident I have the tools I need, full socket set, torx bits, spanners, jack, axle stands, anything thing else you think I may need? How much do you think a decent mechanic would charge for this kind of job, how many hours labour? Thanks
 
#17 ·
I suppose it's like anything else, always learning but gets easier I think the most tricky part of doing this is the space you have to work with :/ does the engine mount really need to come out as everything's under it? What is the need to remove it? More room from top? Or will everything be accessible from wheel well?
 
#21 ·
Hi mate I'm changing water pump because the renault service schedule says at a certain mileage/year the accessories belt and pulleys need changing, with the wp running off this belt I presumed it would be classed as a pulley? There for a serviceable item, Also it's making a whinding noise that follows the revs, wether it's the belt, pulley or water pump
 
#20 ·
Ours2012. Hi. I'm at my wit's end! Kasta is not replying anymore and you also left me? Please read my last post, About the cable and if there are sensors on that cable because the part that clips in at the box that you can see when the bonnet is open. That is burnt and not even looking like anything in the picture. Please help.
 
#25 ·
Dont go near there yet, lets try and sort one problem out first, if anything goes wrong, as in a non starter, we wont be able to help, as we wont have a clue, what area to go at,,
Not much point worrying over this, with a roaming misfire
 
#27 ·
As long as it's universal OAT type. Doesn't really matter as hopefully you'll flush the system while you're at it. I bought 2.5 Ltr of concentrate. Save the rest for topping up.
NFI How much it needs. Just mixed up a watering can full & kept filling till up to level, ran it a bit, vented & topped up again.
 
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#30 ·
Thnink the only bleed point is on the thermostat housing.

And yup, drop bottom hose to rad.

One question.
Are you sure you can get water pump out without disturbing timing.... I'm not familiar enough with the engine but some are behind and some are tucked slightly behind crank pulley/timing belt.
 
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