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Sitting Clio now with multiple misfires

5K views 19 replies 4 participants last post by  Shippo 
#1 ·
Hello all,
Firstly apologies I know this is quite a common issue with these cars and it's been posted a few times. But I didn't get the results I needed from those so seeking some fresh help.
The story so far, I brought a 1.2 16v Clio sport mk2 nearly a year ago, let's say she needed some love. I fixed her up and running sweet as. I gave this car to my now ex wife, who after 3 months didn't want it as it wasn't nice enough looking for her. She now has a fiat punto:grin2:.
So I intended initially to sell it, but couldn't. So I'm now going to sell my VW which I hate and drive this beast.
Like I say it was running well but has since sat for at least 6months. Upon moving her for the first time I notice it has developed a leak (maybe the sunroof issue) as the foot well had enough water in it. God know how long that's been going for.
Now after running a few times it's running really rough. Checked the plugs, added fresh fuel, changed the coil pack and generally looking for loose wires and such. Still there, my simple code reader says 'random/multiple misfires detected'.
So I've used forums before and find them the best source for aiding fault finding. So any ideas? Could it be water related? I have a new cam belt to put on soon but would like to suss this out first. Any help will be GREATLY appreciated!!!!
 
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#2 ·
Kick the car in, Hold the revs at 2/3,000 rpm, for 30 seconds, allow to idle, do the same again for 5 or 6 times, see if it will clear itself.
Multiple misfires, usually coil, blocked/restricted fuel/filter, or cam sensor,,,,.
But if just kicking it in, and allowing it to idle for long periods of time,, this will also give multiple misfires,,
Going on the understanding, its not lost/used water, that is
 
#3 ·
could you just be clear on what you mean by 'kick it in'?
thanks for your suggestion, I did give it a little go yesterday but it wouldn't even turn. maybe ive drained the battery trying to start it so many times.
I will give it a jump tonight and let you know. as far as im aware it has not lost any water.
also it has a new coil pack, cam sensor was changed at service and the fuel filter is the one hidden in the tank if I remember rightly.
 
#5 ·
Ok, now I'm in a big mess.
She won't start! Won't even turn over. A few times it seems to 'click' like the starter motor engaging, from the sound anyway. But nothing more. I've tried jump starting it but no change what so ever.
The last time It was running it seemed a little bit worse.
I do also still continue with the intermittent starting issues, but resolved about 90%Of that with a bypass. Just further info but don't believe that to be the issue here as I say it does try to engage.
I am a little bemused, she started off fine after sitting for a while and has progressively got worse. I'm thinking fuel related? How long until fuel goes bad? I did top it up with fresh fuel but after, and it hasn't turned out to be the coil pack or plugs.
I have a day tomorrow on it, unfortunately on a hill, so not really getting under it!
Any one know of simular issues with starting? Maybe fuel related?
 
#6 ·
Do you now mean the starter wont crank/turn the engine...
Ignore the running issues, until you can get it to turn over off the key..
You say it has been standing..

Get your jump leads, place red on positive terminal of the battery, do the same with the other car,,,,...
Start the other car, make sure the side lights are on your VW, (if it has an aftermarket radio fitted, take the front off the radio, (on the VW,) if YOU have never had a diagnostic on it, if YOU have had a diagnostic done, ON the VW, it is safe to leave the front on)
Connect the black lead to the VW,.. On the Clio, find the engine lifting eye, usually attached to the head, this will be a good earth ....
See if it will now crank/turn the engine by using the key

This should eliminate an Earth fault to the starter,
If it cranks/turns the engine, check your Earth leads on the Gearbox/Engine..
 
#7 ·
Thanks, I did all that the other night to no avail.
But I sorted the starting, common issue - crappy starter solenoid connection. Why do these things all happen at the same time?
So she starting fine, I checked all plugs again. Cleaned all connectors I could find with electrical contact cleaner. Cleaned the throttle body, new inlet gaskets, cleared the breather hole. Put it all back, no change! What the he'll is the issue here!
I did a little vid trying the 'kick I'm was holding at 3000/3500rpm and it just keeps going up and down. When you first start it she seems fine but after about 1min the misfiring starts and progressively gets worse.
Timing? I should have checked the injectors but didn't really know how.
Anyway, vid link https://youtu.be/3EJNE0idmr4
 
#8 ·
Ok so I have just caught a vid of someone who appears to have had the same issues. Almost exactly. And has been solved with lambda sensor. Worth a go? Pre or post or both? A little pricy but not to bad. I guess, I just need this sorted!
At least when this is sorted there won't be much to go wrong for some time
 
#9 ·
So it turned out to be the Lambda sensor (front)
But it made me sweat! After replacing it I cleared the fault code, started her up (1st time :wink2:) and let it run to temp and 'kicking it in...........bloody starts misfiring again, eml flashing away. My heads in my hands!
So.........
Shut it off and had a cuppa, took off the stands and took it for a drive. 2mins down the road problem gone! No light, no misfiring. *FIXED* I believe.

NEXT JOB! :mechanic:
 
#11 ·
Sure, it was pretty much educated guess work. Just researching online, videos and articles on similar fault symptoms. A lot come up with the same causes. So it was kinda lucky. But it is not quite solved the issue, the EML doesn't return and she drives ok but I can feel a slight misfire only on idle. I took to a very helpful Renault specialist today and he run a diagnostic. In his garage there was a very eggy smell from the car, which he said is a sign of lambda sensor fault. Anyway, on his machine it showed that the upstream O2 sensor (the one I changed) was switching to active/inactive while idling but just couldn't pinpoint the cause. He suggested a new loom, but only as a good guess as he said they are a common failure. But he said they usually throw up many different faults. So I'm stuck again MOT is due soon and dont think it will pass as is. Any suggestions?
 
#13 ·
No no, I brought a NGK from euro car parts.
I don't know, is there a way to test the sensor? I wouldn't want to buy another. I suppose I could try returning it. Logic is saying the sensor was maybe part of the problem. Defiantly looking in the right place, but the true error is still to be found. Maybe there was nothing wrong with the original. It did have a little more of a fault not long ago and the error is recorded, so might take it to this specialist see what he makes of the code as he said Renault use different codes on there diagnostics. Going back to researching will be sure to keep you posted.
Think I will try to check the loom for that sensor tomorrow, maybe just resistance and see if there is the chance if a broken/weak wire.
 
#14 ·
Ok so I gave up. I give the car to the guys at the garage I found. They appeared to know what the issue could be so I will see what they come back with. Hopefully get it back Monday. They did find that it was misfiring on cylinder 3 & 4 through the diagnostic and mentioned something about resetting the tappets. So fingers crossed. Gave them the cam belt to do also. Will keep you updated with what happens.
 
#16 ·
Ok so here is an update,
Still in the garage. They said they checked all tappets plus did my cam belt (which was found the old one to be a tooth out). Still the fault, changed one injector and swapped to each cylinder, still fault. Tried different plugs, coil pack and checked the loom all which I had done too. Still the fault persists. Down to the result the ecu is the cause as it's an intermittent signal fault to the coil pack for 2 & 4. They are in the process of exchanging ecu details, something about needing to swap the EPROM???? Is this normal? I'm hoping this is it.
To top it off my vw just failed MOT:frown2:
 
#18 ·
They told me they found some belt material tangled around when changing the belt. So they assume that had something to do with the jump in tooth. Who knows, but obviously good I got it changed. I really hope this is the issue or I'm gonna be at quite a loss.
 
#19 ·
This must be linked to standing idle for 6 months, during which water getting in. Worked perfect before, then not after. My money's on corroded wiring / conectors. (?)


.
 
#20 ·
Hi all,
So it has been a while. And yet all this while in the garage!
I need some help on getting over this issue as even the mechanics are having enough.
They have narrowed it down(a while ago) to be the ecu as all other work was done. And the ecu had an intermittent signal failing to the coil pack which was giving my misfire. So I'm now at a stage where I need a specific ecu (which are apparently quite rare and not easy to find). We did source one but the breakers sent the wrong key with it so don't work. Does anyone have any solution? Where I might be able to find one of these or know someone who maybe able to do this a different way, I don't know reprogram an ecu, maybe even repair the old one?
Numbers I have for the ecu are 8200123939 / 8200138227. It's for a 1.2 16v mk2 clio sport.
Seriously any help or advice will be greatly appreciated. I don't want to send her to the scrapper after all this and be a fair few £ out of pocket.
 
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