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Turbocharger diagnostic page

63K views 37 replies 17 participants last post by  johnboyw 
#1 ·
#5 ·
My Nissan Primastar is showing a fault with turbo pressure sensor on OBD diagnostics. I've replaced the sensor and the warning light still comes on and the power is low. The engine revs freely when its off load but as soon as its under load it drops power and the diesel heater light and service light comes on until the engine is cruising on a light throttle. Its recently had a pipe replaced from the turbo to the intercooler after it split and blew off. I can't hear any obvious noises of air leaking from the intercooler induction pipe. Has anyone got any ideas where to look next?
 
#6 ·
Ok I don't know if I'm in the right section but need serious advice on my 2005 Renault Megane 1.5 diesel TDI.

Less than two years ago,within three months of getting it, turbo went in it completely; loss of power, check injection light etc... replaced it and was going fine until last week... (apart from windows problems, electrics usual!!)
Then last week, white smoke and burning oil smell appeared in car but no major loss of power or anything.
Then yesterday, driving and huge amounts of white smoke from exhaust and awful smell of burning oil. Had to bring car in garage and reckons its turbo gone AGAIN... :crazy:
Has this happened to anyone before? surely turbo's shouldn't go again within two years? is there a warrenty on turbos?
Plus payout of 1, 000 E again when I just want to get rid of car now at this stage!!
All advice needed asap!!

THanks a mill.
 
#7 ·
I have a Laguna II 1.9DCi 111000 mile on it but sadly the other day I ended up with large ammounts of what I thought was white smoke but possibly blue hint filling the road behind me. I managed to get home and the car stopped fine and seemed to drive fine. :mad:

I have checked the oil level which is now empty (was fine prior)

On looking under the lid I have found oil around the inlet manifold after removing the clip and pipe oil is also inside. I have oil on the outside of what I think is the cloth type pipe to the IC.

I guess the turbo has failed so needs to be replaced along with its oil pipes and the IC and pipes being flushed out.

Could this be anything else and do I need to check anything else prior to spending a load of money and it being another fault or more being wrong?

HELP ME PLEASE!!!
 
#11 ·
Well I have finaly managed to get the turbo off the car and have a quick look at it. I had expected the shaft to be unstable or blades destroyed but it seems in fair condition...

I have found a large ammount of oil on the back of the engine but dont know where it is from. Am I still looking in the right place the turbo or should I be looking at something else??
 
#9 ·
Well had my car at Renault today as was at a total loss as to what was up with it, it's had a new EGR valve fitted thinking it was that but nope, turns out it needs a varible turbo assembly costing £1416.01 :crazy::crazy: Just as well its just still under warrenty with garage I bought it from so awaiting a call from him to say when it's booked into garage he deals with.
 
#14 ·
Is it possible to run the engine with the turbo off and if so what do I need to do.
I am looking to run the engine to see if its still ok after loosing all of the oil and finding loads inside the engine bay.

Just after a bit reasurance prior to spending money to repair/replace the turbo
:eek:
 
#29 ·
You don't state the manufacturer of the turbo unit you bought but if it was not evident in the packaging I would suspect it was a Chinese product. I live in France and have found a British company - Melett, located in Barnsley - whom build turbo "center housing rotating assemblies" called a chra for short. I have installed six of them so far on a variety of vehicles and all of my customers are very pleased with the results. I have just ordered another to install on a Laguna I bought for my own use. Here in France I pay 230 euros for the unit. The Chinese units go for a little under 200 euros. I don't know about y'all but I trust you brits to produce a better product than the Chinese. If a person is adept enough to remove their turbo from the car they are probably able to install the unit. It requires disassembling the housing of the turbo, clean the housing well and install the new assembly. As mentioned in other postings the assembly contains all the moving parts and seals. One thing to note is the alignment of the two housings relative to each other. Usually the exhaust housing has a locating pin but the intake side can go any which way so I choose several locating points on the center housing such as the bolt hole for the return oil pipe and make paint or light chisel marks on both of the housings to correspond to those points. The new unit is exactly like the old one so it is easy to position the parts correctly. If you fail to do this you will probably find that the pipe from the air filter will not match up when you install it on the car. The only other possible problem area is if it is a variable geometry turbo. If the actuator lever works freely I just leave it all alone but if the lever binds or is seized you will have to disassemble and clean or replace the vanes. The whole process takes only a couple of hours and saves a wad of cash. DON'T FORGET TO CLEAN ALL OF THE INTAKE PLUMBING INCLUDING THE INTERCOOLER! Also make sure the oil feed pipe and return are clean and not restricted. Many people say replace the feed pipe but if it is clean to begin with I don't bother. If the oil has signs of coking you have much more work to do.
When I install this next chra I will take some photos and post them.
Cheers
 
#20 ·
I paid £120 for fitting this included cleaning out oil pipes and oil and filter change. but garage had not fitted a kangoo turbo before and it was a hell of a job apparently and I "had my moneys worth":d according to the mechanic....I paid up front as they had quoted not estimated so he didn't charge for the extra labour time.
 
#21 ·
Cheers, thanks ... I was looking into DIYing mine as it looks simple enough in Haynes, so long as I either get hold of a spring-clip tool or just plier them all off and replace with Jubilees. Oh and providing I can get the right O-rings, copper rings, and the pipe gasket it doesn't tell you about until most of the way through the "refitting" section. (Would liquid gasket do the trick, as it's just an oilway rather than the cylinder head?)

Their quoting £120 is encouraging in that case, though what actually then happened isn't. Might get on to my local spanner jockeys and see what they say, including difference between me supplying the part and them doing it, if they'd even consider the former. Given that the oil and filter need changing anyway I wouldn't mind if it was somewhat more than that anyhow. £320 all in is a touch more affordable...
 
#23 ·
True, true, but it's not going to be under so much stress once fitted and bolted up, and I haven't yet seen anywhere selling the pipes, let alone fresh gaskets for them. Best I could probably do so far is get a sheet of universal gasket (can you even get that?) and take a stanley knife to it after drawing on the pattern.
 
#24 ·
Use gasket material all the time from the local factors. When the Turbo on my P100 started oozing smoke, I got my friendly injection shop to buy a core unit, for far less than a new one or rebuild. BTW, there is alway a bit of play on the shaft. Around 1 to 2 mm float is fine.
Core unit is just the centre block with the inlet and outlet 'fans', You re-use the outer castings.
DW
 
#25 ·
Here's a ponderable for y'all...

If a TD was very poorly serviced and generally neglected, to the point of the mechanic carrying out the servicing it eventually DOES get commenting on it and advising caution... is it possible that instead of having its seals fail etc, a turbo would simply gum up and stop spinning?

And then, after an engine flush and some fresh oil, come back to life?

And if it did, would it be safe to drive or would the owner be strongly advised to, at least, have the seals replaced if not some more advanced work done?

I think I've now encountered and heard of at least two different cases where something similar has occurred, and ... well, maybe it's possible? :confused:
 
#26 ·
my 1.9 dci has recieved 3 turbo' s in as many weeks and evan after cleaning the egr valve and replacing the maf sensor it stil does not want to rev above 2000 rpm's. the renault expert just talks about replacing the turbo as the boost pressure is lower than what the ecu is looking for.You know, money does not grow on trees and turbo's are not cheap.
 
#27 ·
If you have replaced the turbo and the ECU is not getting
a sig telling it the pressure is high enough then maybe it is the boost pressure sensor or what ever it's called on you engine or the wiring and pipe work going to it.
 
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#30 ·
Have been looking at chra myself, loads on eBay but mostly Chinese thanks for the heads up on the supplier you use.I found a video on you tube showing the how to on a variable turbo. Looks intricate with all the levers controlling the vanes. But I will give it a go.I don't know if mine is variable or not until I look further. Regards Tim.
 
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