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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 26th August 2011 Thread Starter
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Surface Scuffs

Hi All,

Just after a bit of advice after reading conflicting stories about how to remove surface scuffs. In the past on my non-metallic paint cars I've used T-Cut to remove light surface scuffs, however I've read it can't be used on metallic paint - is this true? If so what could I use?

There are a number of very light scratches on the paintwork all over the place and I would like to clear them up. I imagine using a touch up pen would be overkill and messy as these are not deep at all, just very light abrasion. I'll attach a few photos and hopefully you'll see what I'm talking about!
I'm planning to do this tomorrow with polishes etc having to be bought locally rather than bought online as a lot of people advise.

Also - after the scratches have been repaired could I use Turtle Wax car polish (I'm thinking Turtle Wax Nano Tech Wax) the same day or is it best to leave any repair to key for a few days?

Any advice would be appreciated.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 26th August 2011
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Re: Surface Scuffs

i would try some t-cut color fast on a small area as a test first
then some polish with added color this worked on my metalic paint work
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 26th August 2011
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Re: Surface Scuffs

Speaking as someone who repairs this type of damage professionally, this is the product I use;

It is the Mutts Nuts, at removing surface imperfections, all done by hand. Naturally, if the paint has been chipped/removed, it will need some applied, but use this first, and you will be absolutely amazed with how much seemingly 'shot' paintwork can be restored.

Apply a small amount onto a soft cloth, and rub into the damaged area, keep making circular motions until the polish buffs clear & repeat if necessary - then apply some normal wax-polish onto the area you have worked & buff up again.

Don't worry about this one being 'out of date', I have used the remains of a bottle a few months out of code, and noticed no difference at all - but it'll put some folk off & you can grab a bargain.

Don't apply it onto hot paintwork, or use it as part of a regular cleaning regime, but you will end up doing the entire car, so good will the paintwork turn out.

Don't mess around with the stuff you can buy in the shops, what the bodyshops use is a world apart.



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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 26th August 2011
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Re: Surface Scuffs

Professional Tcut , I dont know about but

For "home use" I vent air in the general direction of T cut(from accessory shops) for any paint finish.
Its like milder version of Cif or Jif or whatever its called ,the household "cream cleaner"
The consistency is more like "brasso"

Even for non metallic finishes if u cut thru the oxidised layer the paint underneath will be a slightly different colour(I used to find)

Vel would know more about this but metallic finishes used to be a base coat of paint with metallic particles embedded in it followed by a clear lacquer coat/many coats on top of that .
If u cut even the very top layer of the metallic base coat the rubbing will allow metal bits that were just below the surface to reflect the light differently in a wider and wider circle the more u rub and u get a "feathered edge" spot,or at least I have .
Paint guys can do "blending" but thats over a large area.

For me,depends on your definition of scuffs/scratches/stone chips.

If a scuff is like: hasnt broken thru the lacquer then like lots of polishing should do it.
If its a scratch where your down to metallic base coat,use your renault lacquer clear coat touch up bottle.
If youre down to the primer use the touch up bottle "colour coat" followed by the lacquer,
If its a bit lumpy looking ,dont worry it will shrink a little a few days after application and its much much better than letting "scuffs" stay.

If down to the bare metal,you need to catch it fast to prevent rust .If u dont u will soon see what I think of as "rust varicose veins" which is rust spreading under good paint.
I use , well used ,prior to the new car. "loctite rust remedy" as a primer then the factory supplied touch up colour then the lacquer.

Over a period of time your paint finish is gonna pick up a myriad of at least lacquer scratches from bushes on narrow roads n all sorts.Its a "sheet happens" thing.

Me personally I found a once a year run with "simoniz" the original hard work wax kept most of it at bay.
Aside from that just hope someone crashes into you as the repairers do a great job,, not kidding.

The only detachable body parts I dint have replaced on my previous(metallic finish) car were the lhs front wing,the lhs door and the rear hatch.
The bonnet replacement was rhe best cos of the slight salt n pepper effect on the "old one" due to stone chip damage repairs.

As an aside.. after 2 months the "touch up kit" (2 bottles) I ordered for my car on the day I bought it still hasnt arrived.
When I was in to check on my plastic painted body part/metal painted body part mismatch the service manager told me renault are changing over to all "water based paints" and this was accounting for the delay.

Im as keen on saving the environment as the next guy.. well not really , but this seems over the top.

Water based metallic paints!
Could be that all my bodywork maintenance techniques are out the window

Another aside.
One thing that brasso/metal polish of that type is great for is plastic/perspex scratches.
It will blend the plastic to a totally clear finish.
The only problem is on for example headlight plastic covers : There is supposed to be a "special finish"like a lacquer/coating also
Vel would have more info on that.
Real glass scratches.: Get" Jewellers rouge", no its not some kinky makeup, its what jewellers use to remove minute scratches on watch faces or a final pre polish on metal items.
Yes I do have some and used it to remove a windscreen scratch.Got it from my friendly neighborhood jeweller.
Rambling post probably but wth.
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Last edited by coup; 27th August 2011 at 12:07 AM.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 7th September 2011
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Re: Surface Scuffs

an update:
The genuine renault "touch up paint" eventually arrived , and its like nothing ive seen before.Altho very interesting.
I cant link/ post a pic of the actual copyrighted information sheet that came with it but its mainly diagrams anyway.
It looks great and would seem to be ideal for anything but very large "scuffs".
2 pot kit and yeh it is water based or at least the base coat is.
roughly it goes like this.
a.Wash yer "scuffs/scratches" and rinse to make sure theyre totally clean.

b.apply your paint leaving it proud of the surface,like a little tiny rivet head if its just a spot,("stone chip").
If its a scratch/scuff you will just have to extend the raised profile along the length of the scratch.

If its a very wide scratch,I dunno youll just have to experiment a little,perhaps apply 2 base coats.

c. then comes the cool bit. mho
Wait 10 min for the base coat to dry( I suppose this will vary like 7-12 min depending on oat,humidity) etc but theres just a picture of a clock indicating 10 min.
Then u soak the cap of the base coat pot with water,its like a miniature pin cushion,.Then u use this to "sand" the base coat flat with the surrounding paint..
Then u rinse out the cloth head of the base coat pot to make sure there is no paint residue in it.Perhaps u will ahve to do this often .Maybe just do one area first then make sure everything is kept clean and go on and do the lacquer coat ,

d. wait a further 10 min then apply the "lacquer coat".You can also leave this a bit proud of the surface,well u cant really avoid it if the surface u apply it to is totally flat..

e.wait 20 min,then the lacquer will be dry enough to drive away..without picking up insects n dust/getting damaged by rain I assume?

f.Then u wait 48 hrs and apres that u polish the repaired area to remove the lacquer "lump".The picture shows the lacquer "lump" substantially ruduced after polishing but not totally flush with the surrounding bodywork.
Hopefully It would be virtually unnoticeable unless u ran your finger over it.
I cant wait to try it out as soon as I get enough time, on the couple of chips I have already.

Maybe I will revise my opinion of water based paint.

A>If the scratch/scuff is extensive/wide ,I doubt u would get an "invisible " repair without a respray.
Vel/Paul would know for sure.
B.On plastic parts,if the damage goes thru the primer,who cares , even if the fix isnt invisible it wont rust .Metal bodywork scratches if they are thru to the metal its like a disease..
Mr steel is just waiting for a tiny exposure to the open air and then woohoo party time for rust .This is on my last 10 year + car .
Its just when u think the damage is only down to the primer and u repaint ,a year or so later.yeh varicose veins and underneath that the rust area will be 5 times larger.
Once again Vel/Paul could advise but I suppose anything over 5-7 years you would expect "sheet happens".

Course then there are things like "what were u thinkin dood" such as an aston martin db5 (goldfinger, ejector seat car).
Aluminium/alloy body panels and a steel chassis, the contact between the alumininium and steel, they used felt washers to prevent different metal to metal contact and subsequent corrosion, but what did these washers do.. yeh they soaked up water like a sponge and so accelerated corrosion on both metals

back on topic..
I do have a few other numbers that came with the paint pots aside from renault TE HNK (stone UK)(ash grey IRL) beige cedre in general.if people cant get an exact colour from accessory shops.
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