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Re: stone chips
Your starting point will be determined by whether the stonechipping has exposed metal which has then started to corrode.
If it has, (but there is no bubbling to suggest it has travelled), then apply a small drop of Kurust/Jenolite or similar, then after allowing the appropriate time to dry, you can move to the paint stage.
Source the paint from your dealer or the internet.
Decant some thinners into the bottle and give it a good shake to help thin it down.
Get a small spot of paint onto the end of an open-ended paper clip and start filling the chip from the centre, working out to the existing paint.
Don't apply too much in one go, as although the paint will shrink and level off as it dries and the solvent evaporates, it is a much easier task to do this with multiple coats.
Once it is almost flush and had an hour since the last coat to completely solidify, apply some thinners to the clearcoat lacquer and follow the same process for application.
That should be you.
The purpose of the thinners is because touch-up paint is made 'thick' (so it doesn't run), and has probably sat on the shelf for some time. If the paint is too thick, it will look like you have used a crayon, and be obvious from the moon.
Take your time, and have a steady hand - you'll have a job you can be rightfully proud of.
This job should never be complete - the day I think I've done it all, is the day I resign.
Currently in VelSatisfied's garage:
2005 FIAT Ducato 2.8JTD LWB Gran Volume, 2000 Kawasaki ZZR 1100 D7 'fullpower' in black + full GIVI & KAPPA luggage, 2007 MB R-Class 320 CDi Sport LWB uprated by Brabus to 300Bhp don't know if there's a 155mph limiter - will be fun finding out! 2004 Mercedes Vaneo 1.7 CDi Ambiente 7-seater