1993-94 Espace front O/S window regulator cable frayed. - Renault Forums :: Independent Renault forum

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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12th February 2009 Thread Starter
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1993-94 Espace front O/S window regulator cable frayed.

Window getting stuck. Trim now off. The cable from motor to top of slider has frayed and I suspect is jaming in the motor. Window is near top so unable to get at spring loaded end of cable to release it from slider. Bottom cable lying loose and I can put cable end back in bottom of slider. Want to try and keep car in use. Questions:-
1. Can motor and cable be removed on their own to look at and possibly repair? and leave window in up position. If so how?
2. Is just cable available (suspect Renault will just about want you to buy an new door!!!!!)
3. If Renault do not supply cable, has anyone had one made up (there is a firm that does cables for classic cars for such things as speedos etc).
Hope someone can advise.
4. How do you put pictures on here in case I can fix and can take pics of process?
Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12th February 2009
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You could remove the widow regulator and jam the window in the up position with a couple of suitable legths of timber. Just hope you don't need to enter or leave too many paying car parks.
Fitting new cables can be a pain and very time consuming so a regulator may be the easiest option

Renault don't sell the cables but regulators or repair kits may be available on good old fleabay
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12th February 2009
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Renault will sell a complete new regulator and motor assembly,seperate cables aren't available from them.

There is a chap on eBay who repairs Laguna 2 regulators,it might be worth contacting him.

As for pictures,look at the list of things down the left had side of the screen and click on vBulletinImg,it should help you out.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 27th April 2009 Thread Starter
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A belated thanks for replys. I removed my electric window winding mechanism....quite easy and strait forward. I found one of the two bowden cables had an inner that was frayed and jambing up in the motor pulley. I managed to locate a local place in S Devon which was a family buisiness that makes up cables from 1.5mm thickness to large crane sized jobs. Note 2mm is too thick to fit on the winding drum and go inside the motor body.
I took the mechanism down and they made up a new inner to replace the broken one.....this involved cutting to length 1.5mm cable, swaging on an end stop, threading through the outer and swaging on the other end. They also made a spare for the good cable but with only one swage fitted so I can thread through myself and put the second swage end on + they did another one of each as spares (incase the passenger side goes) They charged around 15 for doing all this. Very frendly and helpful and they made a note of the sizes required.

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The relevent sizes are:- short one = 95.6cm between inner ends of end stops (or little bits of swages as they are called). Long one122cm.
When removing the door trim it is hooked over the metal at the top.....do not try to pull it away from the door without unhooking the rod that runs from the lock to the inside door release handle because the rod runs through a plastic support that is fixed to the door....the plastic bit brakes off if the pannel is moved away from the door by only a small amount. The plastic bit swivels on another plastic peg that fits in a hole in the door. That bit is held to the door by a forked bit that has a little right angled bit on the end, and is on the inside of the metal door skin.
Removing the bolted on roundish cover at the end of the oblong motor will reveal the white nylon drum that the two inner cables are wound round in opposite directions. I found that on the drivers door the short one was 3 turns anticlock while at the same time the long was half a turn clockwise
Before the last swage is squeezed onto the wire the inner cable has to be fed through into the end of the outer, through the spring at the other end and through the other end stop plastic. one swage sits inside the hole in the drum and the other sits inside the end if the plastic end which in turn goes onto the bracket fitted to the window. The swages may need a little filing to remove burrs to let them fit snugly into the holes in the plastic, and also may need to have the very ends filed down a bit so they do not protrude out of the ends of the end stops that slot into the bracket on the window. These two bits each have a spring between them and the bracket so they take up any small (tiny) amount of slack on the inners and at rest the ends but up against each other and hence the need to file off the ends of the innersto ensure they do not protrude.
It is fun winding the cables round the drum and getting them to stay put while you put it back onto the motor end and put the cover back on!
when putting the whole motor/cable assembly back onto the car it was necessary to let it all hang from the motor so there was a small amount of tension on the bowden cables to prevent them coming detached in the drum.
You will of course have taken photos or drawings of how it was all fixed together....ends of bowden outer slot into bracket on door frame while inner then goes round pully and end fixes onto window bracket. There are thin slots where necessary to allow the inners through.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 27th April 2009 Thread Starter
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I will attempt to add photos I took while repairing the window regulator cable.

Well thats a failure or is it???
I tried using the vbulletin rigmarole but not what I expected...there must be an easier way of putting a photo within the text??
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cable , espace , frayed , o or s , regulator , window

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