Independent Renault Forums banner

ABS Fault code Laguna II

43K views 28 replies 6 participants last post by  HelderMF 
#1 ·
Hi All,

First can i just say this site is great, and I am finding lots of usefull information on here, but cant seem to find anything on a problem i have with my abs. The fault code 5131 ( Internal supply / servo solenoid valve circut ). I am wondering if air traped in the abs modulator would cause this.

Any help would be very much apriciated.

Ben
 
#2 ·
That will be an electrical wiring problem. I suggest you clean connectors and open out harness and inspect and measure each cable. Perhaps you can contact a Renault dealer and get them to print out some pages of their workshop instructions that relate to that particular fault DF185.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ben P
#3 ·
Tolsen,
Can you tell me how you translate the original fault code given (5131) to DF185 ?


Cheers.
 
#4 ·
Tolsen,
Can you tell me how you translate the original fault code given (5131) to DF185 ?
Cheers.
Workshop instructions don't list any four digit DTC. All DTC's are DF followed by a 3 digit code. DF185 has same description as threadstarter's 5131.
 
#5 ·
Hi,
Thanks for the explanation.

I think I have the same 5131 fault code but the description of my fault is "BOOSTER solenoid or EV"

Is there anywhere I can find a list of the fault descriptions & DF codes?

I'll post the print out of my fault in my thread about the fault if you would like to have a look.

http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=102755


Cheers.
 
#6 ·
Description varies depending on where you look:

DF185/ 5131 Brake servo solenoid valve circuit/ internal feed.
 
#8 ·
Hello!

My parents have a Renault Laguna 2 1.9dCi Initiale 120hp from April 2001. Now the ABS/ESP System started to though this error: DF185 - Internal Supply/servo solenoid valve circuit.

This is the same error that people were talking about in this forum thread.

Did anyone found out what was causing this issue? The brakes feel great, but when this error occurs the ABS shuts down and the car shows a warning to stop the car and get it to a Renault dealer.

I already unplugged the electrical connector that plugs into the ABS/ESP pump and it is really clean. I used some electrical cleaner spray, nonetheless, but without any improvement. The error still shows up. With Clip I can actuate the pump and the 4 solenoids and I ear them working, but I'm still getting the error.

These Lagunas 2nd generation were the first ones to be sold and have the most expensive parts regarding the ESP system. Later modules have cheaper ESP computer/pump and sensors. I'm hoping to get some help on how to fix this problem, because Renault wants >1200€ for the pump + labor. I don't even know is this problem is really causes by the pump...

Can you help me with this? Attached you can see some photos regarding this.

Regards,
Helder (from Portugal) :)
 

Attachments

#9 ·
#13 ·
I looked into having my unit repaired at the time but the price was still high, so I decided to take a chance on a 2nd hand unit.

When my ABS was acting up the light would sometimes come on but then it would go off for a few days etc. I did notice on one occasion that the light came on as I hit a bump on the Near Side Front (Left), coincidently the same side as where the ABS pump is situated!

I had the car plugged in at an independent Renault garage but the Can Clip could not communicate with the ABS module.

My car did not have ESP.


I honestly believe that the problem is the push fit pin connections, I think they may loose their contact as the unit ages, I think if the pins were soldered the problem may well be fixed.

Unfortunately I never got to test this theory as once I fitted the 2nd hand unit and the ABS was fixed and working I didn't want to start to mess with it so I left well alone. If the ABS pump had been in a more accessible place I may have tried swapping the units over to see if my theory was correct.


Close up picture of the push fit pins...





Push fit pins soldered...







Cheers.
 
#12 ·
Hello,

It just shows "..." and not any other code. I know that in other errors it shows other sub-codes, such as "short circuit to earth, open circuit , short circuit to 12v, etc etc. But in this one, I don't see any other error code. I think it is unknown. I read the thread pointed out by TTT in the previous post, and I saw other people complaining about this DF185 and it was always the ESP/ABS ECU/controller (the black box where the electrical plug connects that has the solenoid valves + the ECU). Maybe the internal electronics are going bad, or the solders/ internal electrical contacts are becoming weaker and causing this. A few weeks before this error started to happen, the YAW sensor started acting up, and the car braked by itself pushing me to the right and almost thrown me out of the road before getting the ESP error. When I connected clip, I saw the ECU showing that the sensor was reading the car spinning around 60º/s. But what I found strange was that in other days the sensor reported correctly 0º/s. Then the error happened again, and before I unplug the sensor, for my safety, I made a simple test of turning the sensor left and right, and I saw that the º/s I was turning the sensor, was adding correctly to the offset the ECU was showing. Now I'm thinking that probably the YAW sensor is good, and maybe the problem was the ECU starting to show problems (bad electrical contacts or bad electronic components).

Thanks!
 
#15 ·
If you have the mechanical skills to remove and cut open the ECU and to solder the connections it's well worth a go, you have nothing to lose.

It would be nice to see someone fix their ABS problem with a little soldering....and of course it would also either prove or dismiss my theory of these push fit pins being the problem. :smile2:





Cheers.
 
#16 ·
If you have the mechanical skills to remove and cut open the ECU and to solder the connections it's well worth a go, you have nothing to lose.

It would be nice to see someone fix their ABS problem with a little soldering....and of course it would also either prove or dismiss my theory of these push fit pins being the problem. :smile2:

Cheers.
Today I saw some youtube videos of people repairing ATE ECUs just by soldering/re-soldering) those pins or other components that had cracks in the solders joints. I even saw a push pin version, just as the ones that are installed in the laguna 2, and the guy just bent the back of the pins for them to make contact again. If I will do it, I'm thinking of cutting open the ECU box with a heated blade, and also bending and soldering the pins. I think it is worth the trouble, taking in consideration the amount of money that I will save. And buying a used unit just to happen the same thing... not my intention.

Well, I think it will be the second time I will take the bumper off this year. One time to repair the headlight washers before MOT, and now the ESP/ABS ECU.

Thank you TTT for your invaluable help!
 
#17 ·
You're very welcome to the help :smile2:

I've had a look on youtube and I think I've seen the video of the pin repair you mention where the guy is giving the pins a squeeze with pliers.

Soldering the pins as you intend to do is a much better connection, if the ECU had been soldered from new you probably would not have to repair it now.

No need to bend the pins if soldering, just use a good quality electronics flux and a quick dab of solder on each pin.

Be careful when cutting the ECU open that you only let the blade go in a little way so as not to hit any components inside.


I look forward to your progress with the repair, I'm sure others as well as myself are interested in this and hopefully it will help other people in the future.



Cheers.
 
#19 ·
I used rosin flux from a flux pen.

I thought that maybe the push fit pins had been used to keep heat away from delicate electronic components so I wanted to solder the pins with as little heat as possible. I find by using a separate flux that you don't have to hold the heat on the joint for as long to get the solder to flow, just a quick dab and it's done.

Most solders have a flux in the core and in most cases when soldering that will be enough to get a good clean joint.


Just make sure you don't use acidic plumbers flux as that stuff stays active and if not fully removed can eat away at the circuit board.




Cheers.
 
#21 ·
You're correct, it could be something else, wiring etc,... just going off my own and other members findings that are in the the thread linked to in the posts above.


Could you tell us what the basic checks are as that would be handy to know.





Cheers.
 
#22 ·
Well, in my case the ESP ECU is throwing the following error:

DF185 - Internal Supply/servo solenoid valve circuit.

I don't see any sub-error code associated. just "...". Maybe it's unknown.

It is an intermittent error. Now it is occurring more often. When this error occurs, the STOP light shows up on the dashboard and the car talks about an error with the ABS/ESP system and to avoid to brake hard and go to a Renault dealer.

I have removed the electrical connection and all seems OK. with the contacts outside the ECU.

I've read many cases on the internet, with this exact same error, that were solved by replacing only the ESP/ABS ECU, or the full pump+ECU assembly by a used/repaired one. I have read also other cases of people that attempt to repair it by bending the pins/ soldering them. Sometimes the problem is in other solder joints of the circuit board. We have to look very carefully with a magnifying glass and search for cracks, etc.
 
#23 ·
Any progress?




Cheers.
 
#24 ·
Any progress?

Cheers.
Hi TTT,

No, not yet. Hopping to have some free time soon. The weather conditions, and then the lack of free time, has forced me to postpone this intervention. Lets see if the next weekend is an option... I also depend on the availability of a friend's (leveled) backyard to lift the front of the car to do the work, and leave the car there while repairing the ABS/ESP ECU. In where I leave, I don't have a place to perform this work.

Last week I went to a Renault dealer, and they want 800€ for a new ABS/ESP ECU unit, of 1300e for the ABS/ESP + pump assembly.... not an option...

I also have a problem with the rear hight sensor that levels the headlights that is acting up... They wanted 190€ for a new one... I was shocked...

Regards,
Helder
 
#25 ·
I look forward to your findings and hope soldering the pins fixes your problem.


Yes, unfortunately the price of parts from the dealers is always a shock.



Good luck and let us know how you get on with your ABS.





Cheers.
 
#26 ·
How you getting on.... any update?




Cheers.
 
#28 ·
Did you ever resolve the problem?


Cheers.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Hi TTT,

No, not yet! I guess my free time evaporated, and it keeps getting worse! This problem evolved to a point where the error is permanent, and remained that way over the last years. But now the MOT rules changed and they don't approve cars without a working ABS/ESP, even though the car still brakes very well as any other older car without ABS. So I need to fix it or the car is scrapped... unbelievable.

I found a company specialized on this kind of jobs that gives a 2 year warranty on the repair. I'm thinking of giving them a shot, since this is a safety related issue. I don't want the car to brake itself out of the road/lane again when the ESP starts working, as it happened before on a strait road. We were lucky that there was no obstacle or incoming traffic when it happened. I don't understand how they were not forced to do a recall on this, given the potential fatal danger it represents. I wonder how many people have died due to these kind of problems, without living to tell that the problem was the car braking itself abruptly to the left or the right due to an ESP error. People often forget that it is possible to steer a car with the brakes alone, and the potential danger of it due to a dodgy reading of an accelerometer or gyroscope caused by a faulty connection or solder joint.

Regards,
Helder
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top