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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 29th November 2006
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I also have the IR sensor but mine does not control the immobiliser so I thought you may be in the same boat
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 29th November 2006
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Firstly forget the key fob that came with the interior sensor as the sensors are not a search for re-syncronising pip keys and give that a go.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 29th November 2006 Thread Starter
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Thanks for replies.
I checked in the glove box, nothing there. Maybe the sensor just does the central locking but the immobilser warning on the dash stays on as well and no can start.

I've searched through the posts about resetting and most seem to involve holding down the central door lock/unlock for 5 or 10 secs. Tried all the various combinations, didn't get anywhere.

Other posts suggest a corroded wire or bad connection somewhere - will check this out again.

One thing that might be useful for me is to learn how to bypass the immobiliser. We need the car urgently and I wouldn't be too upset about losing the immobiliser.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 30th November 2006 Thread Starter
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Neither key works with either sensor. If the sensor is not coded, is it the immobiliser control unit that is particular to its key? Thus, if the key fob is at fault a new fob has to be programmed to the control unit?
I have located what appears to be the control unit under the jack compartment which did look a little wet but there is no obvious water damage inside. In the absence of any obvious failed wire/ connections/fuses or relays this looks increasingly complicated and expensive. I have seen an immobilser bypass module online for £85+pp, might have to do that.

Just found this info on another forum, might be of interest to all the seemingly scores of laguna, clio, megane, scenic and other renault owners that have suffered with this problem. Clarifies a lot on this issue, spread the word:

11-20-2006, 05:21 PM #20
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Re: Immobiliser
Hi there, I work for Renault and have been interested by the uproar caused by the immobiliser systems. I can however understand frustration caused when the key no longer works.

There are two main types of immobiliser sytem, the infrared which can be identified by the small glass ball at the base of the black part of the key and the ultrasonic or radio type system. These differ in two ways. The first infrared system relies on the button on the key being pressed to deactivate the imobiliser. The second has a seperate chip and a decoder ring around the ignition barrell and even if the key does not operate the central locking should have no adverse effect on the car starting.

If you have the first system which is the earlier of the two and was phased out around 1998 a good way to check if the key is still operational (even if the red light comes on) is to point the key at a mobile phone camera and you should be able to see blue light coming from the glass ball on the key. If there is no light then the key is usually unsalvageable and would require replacement. If there is light coming out of the key yet it does not start the car it is most likely that the key and the car have gone 'out of sync' and will need to be 're-phased'. On anything other than a megane or scenic it requires the Renault Diagnostic computer to be connected to the vehicle before the key can be rephased.

Over-riding the imobiliser is possible but you will need the imobiliser code which contary to popular belief is avaliable from Renault dealers (usually about £10+vat). Renault UK have issued a document to dealers that authorise them to pass on this information provided you have shown photo id and the V5 registration document (The code is obtained from the chassis number). For a Laguna you will need to use the pedal and wiper stalk method of code entry and for a megane or scenic the code is entered via the central locking button. Immolbilser codes are not inside the key!! The number on the key together with the chassis number when entered into a crypted Renault database then produce an immobiliser code.

If you have the later radio type key there are no 'cheats' to over-ride the system and a diagnostic routine will be the way to go. You could guess and replace coded ring around the steering lock but these rarely give trouble and are often incorrectly diagnosed as the fault.

There is not a design fault with these systems, perphaps what is more of a problem is that inside your key is delicate circuitry that is unfortunatley often over delicate and anything such as magnets, heat, cold, dropping the key or sitting on it could have an adverse effect on it. As such my advice to you all would be to treat your key like gold dust as in 90% of cases the key is the problem rather than the car itself.

I hope this provides some answers and whilst i'm not strictly defending Renault I hope it provides a view from the other side of the fence. By the way an honest and reputable dealer should not charge you more than half an hour's labour to 're-phase' the key and again if you are replacing the key (which is about £70+vat) the labour charge should not be more than half an hour (definately less then £50inc vat).
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Last edited by mkmly; 30th November 2006 at 07:03 PM. Reason: info from someone at renault
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 7th December 2006
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hi chris my son had the same problem/ what you have to do to reset it is turn on the ignition and wait 15 secs while thr the red light is flashing the start the engine and the light should stay on / back to normal/ also if you loose accleration and engine running normal pump the brake padel a few times and try the acclerlter again
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