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CLIO UCH controlchip *** Fixed ***

75K views 38 replies 17 participants last post by  Ivan P 
#1 ·
can anyone help out on identifying what the Sagem E34707A chip is inside the UCH on a 2002 clio sport.
ive an indicator problem. being fluent at component level repair, all other associated ic's relevent to the indicators have been identified. There seems to be nothing on the web about this chip and no datasheets.

It would appear the stalk switches run into this ic which feeds the main controller which in turn feeds a smart driver to run the bulbs.

Any help would be appreciated.
Many thanks
John
 
#30 ·
Just to answer the original poster's question, I've researched this E34707A chip on board another UCH (Kangoo 2009) a while back and have identified it's functionality as having two serial communication channels. One is used to talk with the transponder antenna (which itself has a microprocessor and talks via serial protocol with the UCH) while the other one is used for K-line communication with a diagnostic scanner.
I have identified several pins functionality but haven't identified the chip itself. If it helps identifying the chip as a standard part, I've found that the RxD (receive data lines) for the two channels are pins 14 and 26. Maybe someone has access to a parts search engine that has advanced search features such as specific pin functions filtering so that we can finally identify this chip.
Cheers!
 
#31 ·
Hello you lovely Renault fixers!

Normally I wouldn't have bothered but well, it's a low mileage 1 owner car

I have been given a 2000 Clio 1200 with a mere 29K on the clock. It was owned by my mate's boss' mother who at 80+ drove it sparingly (though she knew how to find a gatepost!) Anyway, drives tight, no squeaks rattles or bangs. Went over to his a couple of weeks ago to pick it up. Battery was flat but no biggies - it jump started & ran nicely straight away except it was like a swimming pool inside & neither the indicators not hazards worked

So I've been slowly drying it out so I can sell it without it smelling like a slurry tanker and last Thursday got more or less a full tank of water out of it using my Vax. I sealed the sunroof so it wouldn't let in more water until I sort that problem out. Anyway, after that I've used plenty of cat litter to absorb the dampness, all whilst the engine's been running up to temp so I can use the heater blowers to dry the carpet out too

Now every time I go to it, the battery's flat and an indicator is lit (not flashing, just on all the time) even though the stalk is central but I changed the battery for a fully charged one and all was fine once again.

yesterday it started & ran up to temp and was looking dry & smelling not so crusty & everything was working so I booked it in for an MOT this morning. So off I went to my workshop this morning & put on a new pair of wipers as the old ones were non existent. Of course when I go to start it there's nothing so I replace the battery again with the original fully charged one

Except this time the glowplug/engine light flashes rapidly. The engine catches but immediately dies. The wipers, lights, heater, horn, radio & heated rear screen work but the indicators, hazards & windows don't. Also the clock is winding itself forward at a rapid rate of knots.

Disconnected battery. Off with the fuse box lid under the bonnet. All dry but checked & cleaned them all plus the relays & other electrical plug connections. All earths looking clean bright, tight & shiny.

Still no joy. So I do the same with all the fuses in the end of the passenger side of the dash. Same. Next thing is all the relays & connections under the dash. Still nothing.

Now a LOT of the connections I cleaned were quite furry & generally in a corroded condition on their surface so my question is this:

Would you knowledgeable folks assume like myself that damp has got into the UCH and making it do silly things and if so do I wait for it to dry out OR do I take the UCH out & give it a good going over.

If so, how the HECK do you get it out from under the dash?

Sorry for the epistle but I've done more or less the same with Citroens before and they have been equally as temperamental if not quite as epicly frustrating......
 
#32 ·
Now every time I go to it, the battery's flat
If the battery is always flat, there is a high-impedance short-circuit somewhere. It is consuming energy at a rate lower than the fuses melting point.

and an indicator is lit (not flashing, just on all the time) even though the stalk is central but I changed the battery for a fully charged one and all was fine once again.
The UCH unit controls the indicators.

The engine catches but immediately dies.
If the connection between the UCH and ECU is not working properly, that will happen. When you insert the key and in one movement turn the key all the way to the crank position, the ECU will crank the engine (and let it possibly start) but it will run for like 2 seconds and then ECU will shut it down. During those few seconds, the ECU and UCH are negotiating for authorization. If the UCH is toast, then it cannot authorize. So in other words, that's the immobilizer functioning as it should when the car is being started with a non-legit key, say a screwdriver.

The wipers, lights, heater, horn, radio & heated rear screen work but the indicators, hazards & windows don't. Also the clock is winding itself forward at a rapid rate of knots.
The indicators (including the hazard mode) and power windows are controlled by the UCH. The heater and horn are not controlled by the UCH.

Would you knowledgeable folks assume like myself that damp has got into the UCH and making it do silly things and if so do I wait for it to dry out OR do I take the UCH out & give it a good going over.
Probably the UCH is shot, mate. You are probably gonna have to source a second-hand replacement UCH. If you do find a similar version UCH, you can just swap over the 93C56 / 93C66 EEPROM chip using a hot-air rework station, etc.

If so, how the HECK do you get it out from under the dash?
At least on Clio 2003, you need a 13 mm socket and a torx screw bit (can't remember the size for that). The torx screw is behind the fuse box cover on the left hand-side of the car. Then the 13 mm bolt is under the dashboard fixing an aluminum colored metallic structure. First, unplug the three connectors (40 wires, 15 wires, 15 wires), then, unclip 3 relay base sockets (6 relays in total) from the rear-end of the black UCH plastic box. Next, remove the bolt and the torx screw, now the UCH will come out. Just manhandle it out of there, it will come out in some orientation. Honestly, I don't know if these instructions apply to your car, model year 2000. But probably it will be something similar. :) P.S. oh yea, you need to pull the black plastic box towards the rear of the car, as there is a funny latch thing that clicks into place when you insert the UCH into the car.

The aluminum colored metallic structure and the UCH's black plastic box will separate when you have the whole thing out. Do not separate them before, pull out as a whole package.
 
#33 ·
Cheers for that Rone, I managed to wriggle the UCH out & it smells like something's definitely burned out which isn't surprising really as the interior was so wet.

It's just very annoying when it all worked fine on Wednesday & was drying out nicely. In fact the UCH itself was dry as a bone but some of the connections were corroded too. I have my local electronics whisperer on the case atm but at least if I need a replacement UCH he can replace the relevant chips. :)
 
#36 ·
Ok,

Today I've found an identical Clio in a scrapper so I took the board out.

Plugging it all in it all works except start the car. Hurrah!

So now all I need to do is swap the eeprom chip so it'll talk to the key & keep the engine running.

My board is version 6, the one I got out of the scrapper is a version 4. Both BMT N3

So I've been looking which chip to change but the nearest I found is a 93C46.

Is this the one I need to swap? Can't find a 93C56 or 93C66 on the board anywhere
 
#37 ·
I cannot guarantee that it'll work if the board versions are not an exact match. It COULD WORK. Hoewever, there is a possibly of having some differing software code in the main microprocessor's memory between the different board versions. For example, after the swap you could end up with some function not working properly, e.g., the remote controlled central locking will be offline or the electric windows do not work anymore or something like that...

But other than that, yes it would be the 93C46 chip. Those are just some different versions of the EEPROM in question. It is still doing the same function (storing the immobilizer code, etc.) You should however make sure that the chip is the SAME on both of the boards, i.e., you need to have a 93C46 on both the boards, unless that is the case, do not attempt the swap. Also note the orientation of the chip (I prefer to take a photograph) before you start swapping the chips.
 
#38 ·
Clio 2005 1.2 16v.
Main lights randomly going out whilst driving.( DANGEROUS).Also the dash blacks out
Dose the Main (Headlights)Lighting circuit run strait through the light switch or via a relay or via the UCH.? I cant Trace out the circuit.!
I cannot find a 0 ohm path from the main battery fuses F8 F10 ( 60amp) to the individual lighting fuses. Diode test was about 0.5v or 1.2k ohm on all.
I dont trust the Haynes Manual. Its some time gives a simplified generic outline and is sometimes not complete.
I suspect a worn out main lighting relay or loose connection. I hope the relays are not inside the UCH.
Is the main lighting circuit direct through the lighting switch and independent of the UCH as the Haynes Manual suggests or some other configuration.?

Please Help . can some one join this new but related discussion.

Great previous UCH discussion by the way.
Big up Component Level Electronics:)
Cheers
 
#39 ·
Exclellent thread. Almost single source of information that enabled me to fix this issue. Here are my symptoms and fix.
I had random hazzard lights on in the past, then door open signal for years (flashing at first then continous) and just recently unwanted repeated unlocking, signals for these behave like they are stuck on. When it started first, seemed to behave worse when its humind. According to info here, but also from my tracking of input signals that most signals from switches have paralel debounce capacitor (capacitor arrays below black connector). On door open signal i tracked it to be the only component beside sagem IC and one resistor in series so only thing on the board that could make it leak to ground and cause stuck signal. (Measuring while they are on may not give valid result so i blindly replaced). If you are in a hurry and dont have replacement part i would just remove those and see if issue is gone. Shouldn't cause critical issues (if any). Anyways, I ordered 1uf 0603 50v capacitor arrays from china and replaced. No issues for three days now!

Noone offered board repair here, so i was quite motivated for this instead of paying for new(used) uch plus coding.
Hope this helps someone, and many thanks to previous posts.
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