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reverse lights stuck on after electrics' die :\

10K views 137 replies 7 participants last post by  THEOUTLAW3497 
#1 ·
Hi guys, just got back from Tesco after breaking down, with a turn of the key the car wouldn't start couldn't even hear the starter motor. Had this problem a few times whilst driving, the car would just loose all power but then would kick back in because the car was in motion. So today after a couple of minutes I managed to bump the car which started it, but now I have found my reverse lights are stuck on and a break light is out. So could anyone help with the potential problem with loosing power and reverse lights sticking? and how to rectify both problems ?


Cheers guys.
 
#3 ·
Hi possibly a coil fail causing power loss, brake bulb could happen anytime so I wouldn't worry too much about that but I would renew both bulbs, the other will probably blow soon too, and reverse lights staying on could be the reverse light sensor failed possibly due to bumping the car did you bump it in reverse at all. I would disconnect the reverse sensor and the lights should go out and then reconnect and hopefully it's just a glitch, the sensor in on the gear box either on the outside near the passenger wheel or on top of the gear box and is probably green. Hope this helps
 
#4 ·
Brilliants news thanks guys I thought it was going to cost a arm and a leg. I will check both tomorrow i have just run a test on the battery using a multmeter and the reading came back at 12.71 I'm taking this as a good reading and the alternator is doing ita job ?
 
#5 ·
........ I will check both tomorrow i have just run a test on the battery using a multmeter and the reading came back at 12.71 I'm taking this as a good reading and the alternator is doing ita job ?
Good reading with engine off.
Should be around 14v with engine running and not drop or climb a lot if lights put on or engine revved.
Check voltage in morning as well, see what it is after sitting overnight.
 
#7 ·
They run in pairs, ...
Easiest way, is take all four out, but put them in order,,.
Dont want them mixing up. Take the spark plugs out, so if you took number 1 coil out, then take no 1 sparkplug out, and refit it into the coil
This way all coils and plugs are kept in their respective order.
Have a look at the plugs, one will be different colour to the rest, that is the one you change..
Its a bad idea, to put new coil on an old plug, its the plugs not being changed or gapped, that wears a coil pack out ,,.. It has to work harder, than it should.
So buying one coil, and 4 spark plugs,, is the way to go.
Once you have found your faulty coil, put the new one on for this. Dont throw the old one away, in case you have got it wrong,....
 
#8 · (Edited)
greeting. or when an error occurs and the car dies. dies all other devices, or working on radio, etc. and when you want to start the car starter does not work but what about other electronics when you put the key in ignition.or counters work when you put the ignition. or immobilizer light goes out. or hear a petrol pump for a few seconds. check if the starter on the small white cable comes 12v when you want to light car
 
#9 ·
Fantastic ours2012 I will do it today and get back on the results :) and hey Alex if I remember rightly (because most of the time I was in motion and it was a split second) it was just the engine I think but I did notice that the clock was reset so it maybe it all went out. Yesterday when the car wouldn't start I couldn't hear the starter motor there was nothing but the dash and radio did light up and the lights.
 
#12 ·
Ok so today Mrs farther was in hospital after putting the battery back on from charging the car started up fine and we was away we drove 6 mile to hospital then was parked up for a good 5 hours came back the car and it wouldn't start again had to bump it. I haven't had chance to check any of the options I have been given as off yet this may happen tomorrow. Could you point me in the right direction toall the earths ? I want to make a list off all the options and eliminate tem as I go along. I will add I have cleaned the crankshaft sensor
 
#15 ·
Greetings. check the white wire to the starter of 12v. when someone lights the car. Try clean it of
corrosion.
also removes all of the relays and fuses and cleaned of corrosion with sandpaper. one by one that does not confuse them. If I understand the car ignited when pushed .. sorry for poor English skills
 
#16 ·
Thanks Alex for your input. My English isn't much better and it is my mother tongue lol. Anyway I have cleaned some of the earths and the car started this might be a fluke so I'm not taking it as gospel just yet. I have checked all internal and external fuses and all are ok but I haven't cleaned the external this I will d now.

As for unclipping the revers switch in the gearbox what a bloody pain it is to uncleip but access is good i removed the wheel to do this. Anyone need to do it I recommend two flat head screwdrivers at either end and slightly lift up the catches and pull out BE CAREFUL WHEN PULLING. For me it didnt make a difference so have a new one on the way as we speak with a friend. I will take some pictures when fitting the switch. :)
 
#17 ·
UPDATE. Ok the reverse switch has been replaced and RESULT the light went off and work as they should so thanks for that guys.

Today I replaced the starter motor and it hasn't changed anything to the way the car starts. I now think it is the battery as when I removed the old starter I tested it on the car battery and it wouldn't work the new one was tested at the scrap yard and it worked and now it doesn't. Could anything else be stopping it from working apart from the battery ?
 
#18 ·
A starter motor works in two parts.

Solenoid which moves the starter gear into engagement with the flywheel and makes some heavy duty contacts at the end of the stroke.
This is powered from the start system via the small wire and connection. A relay and possibly fuse are likely culprits if this part not working.
Could be immobiliser system also.

Second part is the motor itself, the bit that spins the starter gear.
Powered directly from the battery (big heavy cable) via large fuse on battery positive and then the solenoid contacts.... should be 12v positive supply at all times on the big connection on the starter.

Last is earth connections, if poor, circuits won't be made and starter will not spin.

Make sure battery charged.
Immobiliser light going out when key in
12v to big connection.
Can you hear the solenoid operating...load clack, often repeats like a machine gun?
If all seems good, try a jump lead from battery negative to engine block and see if anything then.
 
#19 ·
Been out again this morning.

Immobilizer lights outing

12v is connected.

I can here a loud crack when turning the key.

Just waiting for a mate ow to jump the car with leads.

I have noticed when the battery is disconnected and left then reconnected the car starts but then after a run there's nothing this leads me to thing the alienator isnt charging the battery.
 
#21 ·
Earth strap to gearbox ?
Something isn't liking it when hot, I'd be checking the heavy straps for green or crumbly strands and remaking connections having cleaned them.
Could be wrong but....

The other thing is are your battery connections on properly, fully down and tight ?

Alternator seems OK
Battery, what voltage after it's stood overnight ?
 
#23 ·
Battery's still on so Il take a reading in the morning. And tbh ours2012 I dont know that is the weird thing when left standing all night sometimes it starts then after a drive around and turning the engine off it won't start again but just gives me a click sound when trying the ignition. During a drive like today the dash just went black radio turned off and i lost all power then came back as the engine was turning but had a stop sign light up with the battery symbol this made me think battery isn't holding or alternator isn't charging. I have tried everything to diagnose the problem with no result and I don't want to replace one or the other without knowing as funds are running low at the moment.
 
#24 ·
Hey guys right nothing has changed. Iv checked and replaced.

Starter motor

Battery

Checked all fuses and earths

Checked mobilizer and it's going out when the keys turned.

When turning the key something is cracking is this normal ?

All lights work and dials but the engine isn't even turning over.

I'm loosing faith. SOS
 
#28 ·
Mark 2 and

yeah dancing dad the motor is clicking (I think it is the motor) the starter isn't spinning at all but was when we tested it on the bench. I can jump start it but a sign then comes on with stop and battery sign.the engine isn't turning over at all I thought the engine might have been seized but I bumped it and it started.

I don't believe it is something major but something and nothing and I can probs do the repair my self. The thing that's getting to me is I am find it so hard to find what is causing the problem.
 
#29 ·
Testing a starter on the bench , this is only telling you the starter will turn..
At the end of the starter,, the cog/bendix, this part,. Now where the part it slides up and moves, that shaft, if this shaft has movement from side to side, where it goes in the end piece/ferrule, because the ferrule is worn, then this shaft gets pushed over, when you turn the key, jams, and stops the motor turning.
Was there any play there, did you notice..
 
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