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Diagnostic code DF0067 **Fixed**

20K views 46 replies 2 participants last post by  cherrypicker 
#1 ·
Hi guys, Laguna ii 2003 1.9dci is lacking power and kangarooing between 1500 and 2500 hundred revs.
No engine warnings on dash.
Fault codes showing are :-
DF067 valve set to summer no setting available
DF067 two valves set to summer are showing the same setting
DF052
DF052
After clearing the codes they just reappear.
Any info is much appreciated as always.
Thanks for your time
 
#3 ·
Fantastic stuff. I thank you! It's always that one thing that us amateurs would never think of. Genius tho OURS2012.
I had a couple of tyre changes last year and the fitter didn't have a clue what the valve sensors were so he knocked them off!!

I'm still at a loss tho regarding the loss of power and kangarooing. I'm changing the fuel and air filters later today but suspect the EGR. Any thoughts?

Thanks again
 
#4 ·
Got to ask, what interface did you diagnose with....
Kangerooing would be doing as you say, change air and fuel filter,...
Also check ,, at the turbo, from drivers side, a small pipe coming off the waste gate actuator , check this for splits, lose fitting this will give issues at the speed you mention

This is not your one, but will give you an idea of where I mean to look


for Renault Laguna / Master / Scenic Trafic 1.9dCi F9Q Turbo Actuator wastegate | eBay
 
#5 ·
Hi OURS2012,

Used a Launch x431 pro 3 but they're only as good as the operator right? Ha.

I can only think the fault isn't generating a code yet. Strange thing is the DF067 DF052 seem to point to airbags and injectors. All the more reason for my respect for your earlier input.

I picked up the filters and a pot of injector conditioner for the tank (yeah I know :) and a tin of EGR cleaner and was that happy to make it home I chilled out so will be the am now. I'll let ya how things go in the pm and will def check your latest tip. Cheers
 
#6 ·
Dont know how launch works, but winter and summer settings are only for tyre monitoring,, so DF067 is deffo those,, But now you have thrown the cat amongst the pigeons, where has the DFO52 come from
On your car, you are able to diagnose UCH ( body control module) UCP (undeer bonnet fuse box) Airbag Ecu/module, Abs Ecu/module..
Most if not all phase one lagunas, steering column not diagnosable.. Electronic hand brake if fitted,,,...
So with this added info, would you know what ECU/module launch has found the fault in,..
Can give you an explanation of the DF052 in all the modules/ecu's ..
But if not sure what part your interface is connected to, you could end up getting lost in the system,,,
Ok after typing all this, so will let it go through,,, DF052 valve receiver, as no other module/ecu on your car has this code, apart from the possibility of your engine/injection ECU,,
But that is going on a Laguna, phase 1 ,, Have not looked in my Laguna phase 2 folder
 
#7 ·
ours2012 apologies. I thought this was posted last night.

" The codes were generated a few days ago by a mechy friend but from what I can remember he was surprised that a UCH code was generated on module 8? I think it indicated an electrical fault because mechy said he had an additional software package to investigate that issue further although I haven't seen him since!!
I have only ever managed to access modules 6 and 7 on my Espace (very basic so called code generator) so 8 presents an unknown for me. According to mechy he reckons the launch x431 pro 3 is the business but thats the only opinion i've had about it. I do tell him that I don't expect anything else from him as (and i do wind him up about it :) he spent 3 and half grand on the full kit. (OUCH!)
Hope this helps to track the problem and please tell me your info is based on experience and not a shed load of money on a program. Lol. In any event I appreciate your support. I'm thinking the former is true. Thanks."

Latest developments:-

Filters changed and bled. A can of EGR cleaner emptied down the air intake. Result. Pulled away ok and can now rev to 4500 in neutral. In gear it hops badly at 1800 revs and has no power whatsoever. Following the bleeding of the fuel filter and the attempted test drive I noticed the priming bulb has gone soft. Pumped it up again till hard with the engine off and felt it as the engine was started and immediately went soft again.

Continued support please ours2012 I just know you have the right answer given the right information. Grovelling thanks :)
 
#8 ·
Shed load of money on a program mate sorry:grin2:
Thats why its shown this,. His machine should be able to alter configurations in the UCH,,, (I did mine with clip)

Can you ask your mechanic friend to monitor position one and two (in live data) of accelerator voltage, and position, see if its down to that area,,
Ask him what accelerator is reading with his foot off, as in 0% ,. See if he can take it upto 1800 revs and see if voltage is ok, ,,
Are you able to drive it with him monitoring sensors ,,,
He wants MAP, MAF, FUELPRESSURE, ECT SENSOR CRANKSENSOR, Not sure if his machine will allow more than 5,, But ask him do it on data, then on graph, see if you get a red line on one of the sensors going out of range,,,, ..
He will understand all that,,
P.S. only kidding about this (Shed load of money on a program mate sorry:grin2:)
 
#9 ·
Not being funny but I don't care if you got you knowledge from a passing UFO :) You know your stuff and that's refreshing mate!
i'll get mechy to check all your pointers. Sad man is in love again and hard to pin down just now but i'll keep you updated as soon as. He offered to lend me the launch but I don't trust myself to do more good than harm. I've been known to wipe the odd hard drive :)
 
#10 ·
It is virtually impossible to screw up, as long as you dont willy nilly press enter on anything that does not make sense,,
Never clear any faults unless you have saved the data,,, Ever, never change a parameter unless you have saved the parameter settings first.
You always need to know where you started, in case you C0ck up.....
Can always put it back, as in, not touched state,,,

Its always save save and save again... Have done this for as long as I have played ,,, Its easy to think, I will remember, but when it happens, its to late
 
#11 ·
Hi ours2012,
Spoke to mechy and hopefully gonna see him tomorrow am. If he gets my sense of humour anyway.
By his suggestion (and i've gotta say in his wisdom :) he thinks it best for him to perform the checks. Relieved or what!
Only problem now is getting the car to his garage (2-3 miles?) Down hill there uphill back. Wish me luck and i'll update ya tomorrow.
You and him would probably get on very well regarding the nature of the subject. All beyond me I'm afraid. Give me a twin carb, a screwdriver and an ear rinse and then i can play otherwise still in awe of it all :)
 
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#12 ·
Hi ours2012

As promised here's the update on today's polarver :)
Mechy was as good as his word and did things as you suggested. More questions than answers raised for me. (amature as I am).

Mechy is adamant that the following fault codes point to his suspicion, and one of your possibilities, The crank sensor.

The codes showing after full investigation are:- (indicated A for active and M for well memory)

DF186 A
DF209 showing once A and once M
DF002 M
DF056 M
DF195 M
DF209 M
And lastly DF216 M

Test drive resulted in normal idle (825)
Accelerator pedal ok but cannot produce more than 3800 in idle foot on the floor.
Engage first gear release clutch and barely enough power to start the car rolling. Second gear sees no improvement and third stalls the car.
Your thoughts appreciated as always. Cheers
 
#14 ·
Can you post your vehicle type, found in your oval plate,,,

want to make sure of the codes
DF186 A = heater plug circuit
DF209 showing once A and once M =EGR valve position sensor circuit
DF002 M = air temperature
DF056 M = airflow sensor
DF195 M= Engine speed/camshaft sensor consistency
DF209 M=EGR valve position sensor circuit
And lastly DF216 M =Sensor supply voltage no. 1
My thoughts are it is all pointing to your airflow meter as regards lack of power..,, but post your vehicle type, let me find out what,, sensor 1 supply circuit is pointing to
 
#15 ·
Hi ours2012, Thanks Man. Type is BGOG,

is it safe to assume that the codes, in memory but not active, can be set aside with regards the current problems

I'm with you on the flowmeter theory. I trusted the egr cleaning fluid application to another. coz I couldn't apply it an rev at the same time. He's just suggested that he "might of accidently sprayed" the flowmeter filaments!! How the feck I don't know coz it was off the car at the time. Aaaaaaaaaaagh.

Anyway in the hope of removing any contamination I have simple brought the engine up to temp. Then 1200 revs for a minute 2000 revs for a couple of minutes and 3000 for a while. It will still only rev to about 3200 in neutral but on the run the power has picked up a bit and the kangarooing is still present only worst. Is there a definitive way to clean the flowmeter sensor wires? I'm hoping that will at least restore the power to what it was when I first posted which was down but not terminal :)

I vaguely remember seeing a post on here about a clio with a df216 code. I'll see if I can find it and get back to you. Thx
 
#16 ·
Supply no. 1 is for the following components:
The pedal sensor (gang 1)....The fuel pressure sensor.....
The air flow meter ... The exhaust gas recirculation valve
and turbocharger pressure sensor.
Tracks 2 and 3 of the air flow meter connector.
Tracks 2 and 4 of the exhaust gas recirculation valve connector,
Tracks 1 and 3 of the fuel pressure sensor connector,
Tracks 2 and 4 of the pedal sensor connector,
Tracks 1 and 2 of the turbo charging pressure sensor connector.
This is where its going to be hard to pinpoint if it is a connector sensor or wiring
With clip, we can check voltage through the screen, and see what one is giving us the fault, as the voltage will go up to 4.9v when the faulty sensor is disconnected..
Now as you have not had a problem with your fuel rail pressure sensor..
You will have to use this (fuel pressure Tracks 1 and 3) as your reference point..
You will have to back probe the two wires, find somehow of connecting your meter to these two wires,,, Now pull the plugs off each other sensor one at a time, once your voltmeter shows 4.9v whichever one was holding the power down, that is either faulty, or the wiring is faulty....
Now with having all this info,, and re reading it, an educated guess on my part because its gone active, then memory, as in faulty for code, then logged,... your EGR, or the plug going to the egr,,, would start with that first
 
#17 ·
Genius! Back probe (paper clips) and connect multimeter across 1 and 3 of the fuel sensor for reference. Pull the sensor plugs 1 at a time (starting with EGR) faulty plug being disconnected should produce 4.9 at the meter. great stuff.

A couple of points to aid my ignorance if you've the time.

Ignition on or off?
what should I expect as the initial voltage across pins of fuel sensor?
Any idea where i can find a wiring diagram for the sensors?

Gotta tell ya i'm stunned but my carer (who doesn't know the difference between light and hard. yeah we can go to sleep with the light on right :) saw the term EGR on a google search and swore blind that must be it! That'll change my life forever if your right HaHaHa
Thanks
 
#20 ·
Hi ours2012,

I just spent an hour typing up the results of the tests done yesterday and today but after hitting the post quick reply button I was asked to log in again as I'd been timed out.
Result:- Post lost AAAAaaaaaaaaaagh :)
I'll type it up again tomorrow. cheers
 
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#21 ·
Oh so many times that has happened on me,,,
Have learnt to copy, before hitting the reply, and then, if I have to log back in, can just paste..
When I first started, it would take me 20 minutes to find the correct key on the keyboard to press, can know do 120 words a minute. and thats when drunk>:)
 
#22 ·
Your a sad Man! I noticed you liked my loss Lol.

I didn't think a forum would time me out but i'll follow your lead in future. I'm on about four words a minute sober so today's (weird!) results will have to wait but I think you'll find amusement in them :)
 
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#23 ·
NOT liking your loss ,, more can relate to it.......


Think eveyone on here has been caught out on that, at one stage thought they had given me dispensation , then just realised was getting quicker at replying
 
#24 ·
Evening ours2012 :) I was laughing.

Don't know about you but i hate doing anything twice! I really do hope you get a smile out of this :)
Anyway lets see if i can remember what i said yesterday before being dumped off the site.

It went something like this:-

Apologies for late reply but Sunday presented interventions beyond my control.

Monday got back to the car, and within minutes of opening the bonnet, the postman turned up with the crankshaft sensor I ordered in antisipation. Couldn't help but to suchum and fit the thing before cracking on with the advice recieved so far. (It looked so simple given my knowledge of these things. Whaa) What a bastad to find, let alone remove and refit! If I were a pro I would have known (as i do know) to remove the undertray and access from the bottom. Being the amature I am I followed the book. Thats not strictly true coz the "book" doesnt identify the position of the sensor and advices removing the battery, it's tray and the computer below the tray. AaaaaAAAZGH. TO WHAT END I DON'T KNOW COZ ONCE REMOVED NOTHING IS ANYTHING MORE ACCESSABLE THAN BEFORE. (Renualt's own workshop manual (MR339 available via Diologies) identifies the TDC sensor in the rear right top of the head where the camshaft sensor is.

Anyway found it changed it and found during a test drive that i'd got rid of the kangaroo effect. Hooraaaa.

Short lived joy coz the lack of power is still severe enough that any attempt to go uphill (whatever the gradient) that I had to turn around and find a flat route home. Not easy given where I live. Still, got home alive and finally got to attending to the advised procedures.

The results (that I suggested you might find find amusing) are as follows:-

Backprobed 1 + 3 of the fuel rail pressure sensor. ignition on = 5.0 v
Pulled the plugs one at a time from the follwing sensors:- (in order)

EGR
MAF/Air Temp
Turbo
Fuel pump

Result = no change on any of them.

Placed back probe pins to each of the sensors mentioned ( in the positions given) and recorder the voltages with the ignition on and again with the engine running. The results (that I'm baffled by :) which I hope you can make some sense of are as follows:- (ignition on then engine running) Battery voltage ignition on = 12.33. Engine running 14.64.

EGR 0.01 and variable
MAF/Air Temp 5.0 then 12.22
Turbo pressure 5.0 then 9.46
Fuel pump pressure 3.92 then 7.93

I havent been able to access the accelerotor potentiometer (gang 1) yet due to my own disabilies and physical restrictions. Now I'm back where I started by apologising for the late reply....
Thanks again for your help. Enjoy :)

PS took your lead on writing posts and put this together in notepad and copied it over :)
 
#25 ·
Should add that codes df066 and df301 appeared after crank sensor was changed and before the other sensor checks but they didn't re-appear after clearing all codes following the sensor checks.
 
#27 ·
No worries, looks like i'm rained off today and tomorrow :)

Got the EGR off finally. Is it supposed to have a lump of coal in it :frown2: only kidding but i've seen less soot up a chimney before now :smile2:

I'm now getting 3.24 volts across the fuel temp sensor at ignition. No further checks made on the electrics until the EGR and the damper valve are refitted (coked and oily as well)

Stay cool :cool:
 
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