Join Date: Mar 2012
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Re: Broken bleed nipples and caliper replacements.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I am inclined just to replace. If you think I'm likely to get away with screwing the caliper onto the flexi, then that is reassuring. I don't think I really want to get into changing the flexi. I can see even more problems there!
I think I'll order the recon calipers, and then have a go at getting the bleeder out. What's the worst that can happen? I give up and put the recon calipers on?
I've thought about it and think my best plan is to buy some torx bits of a diminutive size, T5 maybe, and then sacrifice them by hammering them into the hole. If I get that in, I can then put a gang'o'heat on the thing and try to work it out.
I'll have to put some heat on that flexi union anyway, that looks like it has gone that way too, so will need some encouragement. I'll get myself a set of flare spanners - never had a need before to get any!
Why they put a crappy little bleed nut on these things I can't really fathom at all. An M8 bleed nut should be minimum, IMHO.
On the subject of creased up boots, I was surprised that the replacement pads did not have a 'notch' in the back of one to locate the rear piston on to. Usually, you need that to stop the piston rotating with the handbrake. Did I do something wrong? Were they the wrong pads? I was surprised at that...
PS - I wouldn't say the pedal is 'soft', just that it has a lot more movement in it than it did before. Just been out in it and got used to the additional pedal movement almost straight away. I think it's just I got so used to the rears being seized!! Of course, it is a RHD-conversion thing with a torsion bar and the piston on the LHS, so there is yet more 'play' in the thing than a 'proper' RHD piston setup too.
Currently in donald68's garage:
Grand Espace 3 16v Auto, Scenic Dti Auto & Fluence ZE