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post #50 of (permalink) Old 15th November 2014
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Question Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

It's back to its new tricks again.

Tomorrow, I have agreed with my wife that, after helping her get the kids up (she has a swollen knee ), cooking breakfast, getting some stuff down from the loft and avoiding mowing the lawns, before I cook lunch, I'm allowed to get to work on the grubby, French muppet on wheels.

Order of play:
  1. Oil flush treatment
  2. Disconnect the battery
  3. Drop the oil
  4. Drop the sump
  5. Check/clean the oil pick-up (I'm looking for all sorts of crud, my hypothesis is that after it ran dry it built up a lot of rubbish in the sump, which when the oil is to temp and thicker, is preventing the flow up the intake, causing the lower pressure at idle, hence the flickering stop and oil lights)
  6. Maybe pop a big end cap or two to inspect the big end shells
  7. Air filter check/clean
  8. EGR canister check/clean
  9. Remove intake
  10. Remove and dismantle the throttle body as far as possible for cleaning (I've seen clips on the plastic part which should allow something to be done, I have some switch cleaner that I'd like to try if I can get any access to the throttle position sensor though I suspect it's a bonded unit)
  11. Ensure the idle control valve air port is clear (if it has one and isn't controlled by the butterfly valve)
  12. Clean all connections - I haven't done this on the TB yet
  13. Check the MAP sensor seals and the state of the MAP sensor (I fitted a new one when I did the tappets but it didn't make any difference)
  14. Take the valve cover off - checking for excess oil in the inlet
  15. Recheck the tappets I adjusted last time, maybe let up a little on the exhaust tappets in case the last adjustment delayed any required back pressure (0.25mm on these I believe, though documents state 0.20-0.25) for those looking for data on this for doing your own, you need to check for a groove somewhere on the cam shaft - this indicates a 0.35mm clearance on the exhaust tappets
  16. Attempt to clean the breather valve by spraying liberally with carb cleaner from the under side until I see something drip through
  17. Clean the exhaust manifold
  18. Tighten any loose bolts on the exhaust manifold (could oil leak from their stud ports?)
  19. Check the O2/lambda sensors are tight and the wires/connections are all clear, clean, etc.
  20. Check that vacuum hose that was loose last time, determine what it's connected to at the other end and make sure it's clear
  21. Change the oil filter and seals again
  22. Would replace the oil pressure switch but both motor factors I normally use don't have any in stock, so may just check it's in one piece and fastened securely (had alarms and leaks from the high pressure switch on my Passat caused by this, saved a good few hundred pounds DIY when the garage told me it would be a lot of work and it turned out that the 2.50 switch was leaking)
  23. Recheck/re-clean the crank sensor
  24. Replace the coolant temp sensor
  25. Check as much of the wiring loom as possible (the ECU cover was missing when I got the car, so the previous owners had the sense to remove it) there is no evidence of chaffing round the ECU though I did manage to snap one of the plug clips, it's pretty stuff to get off though, hasn't budged in the last month or so
  26. Refit the valve cover (the gasket is almost new)
  27. Refit the TB to the intake manifold, bending the pins for the connections and using electrical grease
  28. Maybe I'll fix that knock sensor wire while it's still light - using a head torch with the loom all connected last time, in the dark was a little painful
  29. Refit the inlet manifold
  30. Refit the sump
  31. Fill with oil
  32. Connect the battery
  33. The engine management light is on again so I'll get the code(s) and clear it
  34. Recheck the oil level
  35. Start the engine and get it up to operating temp
  36. Check the idle and if it's still being a female dog, I'll take it at speed, 40 minutes to the coast and jump out of the door, leave it for someone on the other side of the Solway to grieve for it
If you guys can think of anything that doesn't require new parts (not going anywhere tomorrow) that I can check while I'm doing all this, let me know, I have bags of ideas and no idea if any of them will get results.

Engine oils often cause long debates however, I'm using a 5w40 fully synth oil at the moment, is it likely that this is causing the low pressure light when hot? Would a 5w30 grade, being thinner at that temp, provide a faster flow, therefore a higher pressure? Just a thought.

Thanks people, will update as things progress slowly.

Currently in mah14681's garage:
2001 Clio Mk2 Ph1 1.2 16v Sport, 2001 Citroen Xsara Picasso 1.6 LX (95)
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