Task ***8211; Horn Replacement / Upgrade ***8211; Renault Scenic 03 Onward
Tools ***8211; 10mm Socket, 13mm Spanner, Wire Cutters, Pliers, Jack, Axle Stands, Electric Drill.
Parts ***8211; Replacement Horn (or Upgrade), Auto-electrical wire in 2 Colours, Spade Connectors, 2 electrical ***8220;tap***8221; connectors.
Time Allocation - 1 Hour
The horn is located directly behind the front Renault badge in a void between the radiator and the front grill of the car. It can just be seen if you look up through the grill. It is suspended from a fixing bolt directly under the flat section inside the bonnet and is held in place with a 13mm nut.
The easiest way to access the horn is from underneath the vehicle.
Firstly jack up the front of the car and place it on axle stands. The underside of the engine is protected by a thick plastic sump guard. The sump guard is in 2 pieces, a front and rear section. To access the horn you only need to remove the front most section. This front section is held in place by 3 x 10mm bolts but it is also pop riveted to the underside of the front bumper. To remove this front section you first need to locate and drill out the pop rivets. There are usually about 5 or 6 of these. Once the pop rivets are removed you can then remove the bolts and remove the front sump guard section.
You will now have access to the void and the horn. I used a Ring replacement twin horn kit from Halfords (£15). The Renault horn is connected by two wires, a black and brown and a grey and brown. Remove the wires from the horn, this will give you better access to tap off your wires. The connector has a wire circlip retaining mechanism which you need to push down to release the connector.
To mount the new horns I used the pieces which came with the horn kit and fabricated a connecting piece so that the two new horns could be connected directly to the same fixing as the old horn. Doing this I could leave the original horn in situ and use it as a fastening point for my new horns. If you remove the Renault horn completely you will not need to do this but you will need to find a suitable short 13mm nut and bolt. If you need to do this add another 15 mins to the allotted time.
I then assembled and wired the new horns on the workbench using both terminal connectors on each horn. I wired these in parallel and found that doing this meant the horns simply worked (without a relay) when connected. Once you have your new horns, mounting and wiring complete you can then use the old mounting point. With the horns in place use the tap connectors to piggy back your new horn wires into the wiring loom.
Replace the sump guard. You can either re pop rivet the sump guard back to the underside of the front bumper or, as I did, use small stainless steel self tappers.