Hi Johnny – Nice run down on doing brake but these wee pointers may help.
Only two bolts are supplied as you only need to remove one each side to replace pads – you undo one bolt and guess what the calliper swings upwards rotating on the bolt that is left. Well that’s their reasoning although I prefer to remove both and apply locking compound
Yeh all rear brakes get more cr** on them that’s because the front wheels fling all the road dirt towards them.
If the handbrake cable is removed the pistons will retract more easily.
The proper tool is best and can be bought for around a tenner and minimises the risk of any damage to the piston
It is not recommended to use copper-slip (anti-seize compound) on the rear of pads as it will cause the rubber seal around the piston to deteriorate and as repair fits are no longer available it would then mean replacing the whole calliper. I have contacted a brake manufacturer and they do not recommend the use of any form of lubricant. Copper slip may be used in lubricating the guides or slides but only the minimum should be applied. But be warned brake manufacturers will not give any warranty if anti-seize compound is used.
The tacky surface as you call it is there to minimise squealing but only works if the surface of the piston is clean and undamaged.
The pad which wears the quickest is always the one that was stuck but probably the only one working properly – hence it wears more.