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Renault Scenic I - Heater Fan Fix

164K views 78 replies 54 participants last post by  funkydingo 
#1 · (Edited)
As per Ben1400's threads re the resistor pack, or as the Haynes Manuel calls it, the Heater Blower Motor Resistor/Control Unit, I've just repaired mine following Ben's instructions for his Laguna...what a top man!

As I have a 99 Scenic Alize with Air Con and I thought I would share with everyone who has the same (and it appears a commom ) problem, how I did this on my car - a much edited version of my experience!

Firstly, take out the pollen filter (if fitted) and the blower motor, then get upside down in the passenger footwell (in a girlfriend/mistress sort of stylee) and look up into the air chamber. You will see the resistor pack, but unless you're a gyneacologist, you won't have much of a chance carrying out the repair as per Ben1400's instructions.

Too get to the little beastie, I had to take off the top of the dash, straight foward and as per the Haynes Manuel. Once thats out of the way, you will seen the left hand air vent tube, its got a thin sponge cover. This has to be pulled from the centre consol air duckting and from the left hand air vent. It does come off, just needs a good 'yank'.

Underneath this trunking, you will then see the top of the resistor pack and you can now undo the little grub screw that hold the resitor pack into the air box. Once this is undone you can lift the resistor pack out and undo the electrical connections, 4 in total (3 on the top, one underneath the dash, to the blower motor) and repair it as per Ben1400 instructions.

The biggest of the 3 top connections ia a bit of a funny set up, as you will see a red ribbed 'tab' at one end. This simply pulls away from the main body and as it does so, it releases the connection.

The fuse is easily identified, as its the only one there, once you have replaced the thermal fuse, it all goes back together in reverse order. All in this took me about 3 hrs, but I have recently had the blower motor out and therefore managed it a bit quicker this time. If you can manage to see the resistor pack from the pollen filter 'hole', you don't need to remove the blower (this just gives you an idea where it is).

The replacing of the thermal fuse is straight forward as Ben states, it cost me the grand sum of 71p at Mapplins and thanks to Ben's fantastic input into the forum, not only did I save a fortune, I got a lot of satisfaction from repairing my own car!

JUST A QUICK UPDATE ON THIS THREAD, THE THERMAL FUSE I USED AS PER BEN1400'S INSTRUCTONS BLEW A DAY LATER (RATED AT 110c). I MANAGED TO FIND MY OLD ONE AND IT IS RATED AT 192c, MAPLINS PART NUMBER IS RA20W.......ITS STILL 71p!! This time I only took off the top of the dash and removed the heater tubing, all in it took me about 20-30mins, a real bonus.

Finally......THANKS BEN!!!:eek:
 
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#57 ·
First of all, great thread.
I've been having a right old battle with mine today.
Took all the dash out to get to the thermal fuse, went and bought a new one from Maplin.
Got back and soldered it in, fitted back to the car and...... it didnt work :(
Then i thought of soldering in a single piece of wire to bridge the 2 pins for the thermal fuse.... Still the same :(
My heater works like this:
Turning to the right, 1,2,3 dont work, 4 does work.
Turning to the left (recirculate) 1,2 dont work, 3,4 works :confused:
Could it be a problem with the fan switch?
If anyone could shed some light on this i'd appreciate it.
Thanks,
Ade.
 
#58 ·
Useful thread, but desperate attempt at repair and reaching out to resistor set led to some other problem.
Now, my side mirrors controller, radio, clock display, heater fan display is not working.
But I can see light on display(It is not blank) but readings is not there. If I press Ac button, different vent setting buttons, now no yellow light turns on, as it used to be. But my cigarette lighter is working. Can anyone suggest me whats the potential cause. Thanks a lot.
/Can
 
#63 ·
Hi Guys,
I have just got a second hand scenic megane 2001. And have just discovered that the heater blower doesn't actually work. When I turn the switch it makes a noise like it's starting up, but then stops a couple of seconds later. Is this the resistor pack that I have read so much about or could it just be the actual blower motor it's self :confused:
Any help would be gratefully appreicated.

Thanks on Advance

Maisie
 
#64 ·
Could be either or both; a few years back the heater fan on my Scenic stopped working. It was around £500 or was it £600 to fix it as the motor cannot be bought alone but only as part of the complete fan assembly, plus the resistor pack had also failed at over £100 plus VAT. The usual reason for failure, as in my car's case, was the silly drains hidden between the inner and outer front wings become blocked and the rainwater cannot escape so ends up going into the fan entry duct. Blockage is caused by some very cheap one-way drain flaps becoming jammed by mud and debris. I found out about this too late, but needless to say I have removed the flaps and we've not had any water getting into the car via the air inlet since.
 
#66 ·
Hi, I've taken the resistor pack out the dash on a 54 scenic II. The fan only worked on position 4. I have replaced the thermal fuse with a 192c from Maplin. Before I put it back together I have tested it and the repair works, but the resistor pack started to smoke after 5 seconds. Does anybody know if this is because there is no airflow to cool it down or a problem with the resistor pack? Any help will be very welcome.
 
#75 ·
Hi. I have had the same problem with new resister and loom fitted. All fan speeds were working, then smoke from resister pack which got very hot before losing fan speeds on setting 1, and 3. Setting 4 works. Just wondering if you managed to get a response and fix your problem. Many thanks.
 
#67 ·
I just carried out this fix, and thought I would add three things that I discovered to make it a bit easier.

1. You don't need to remove the duct pipe completely. If you remove the right hand end (where it links to air distribution box) you can gently lever it up so as to make room to get in. Its even easier to see if you have a dentist mirror type thing, and a torch.

2. If you remove the clock console as well (2 screws and 3 connectors) it's easier to get the duct pipe back on without bending or breaking it, as you can use both hands....all you need to do after is reset the clock

3. The fan itself on mine was also in a bit of a state, but I couldn't remove it, as with others, and I didn't fancy hacksawing things off.....so I unbolted it, lowered it as much as I could, and then used a pipe and some wd40 to liberally spray towards the spindle, and under the fan.....seems to work a treat.

Thanks for the help, and great fix.

Perry
 
#68 ·
Just a little note of thanks and a little tip.

There was no trod screw retaining my pollen filter cover. It wasn't missing as there was no hole for it.

Took a few minutes of trying to find a non-existent screw before I got a mirror.

Other than that I got it all done in less than an hour.

Top notch help folks.
 
#69 ·
as per peoples instructions about resistor pack, the first thing to check is fuses and mine were all ok, rather than pulling the dash apart just to check something that may not be faulty if you have no blowers at all unplug the connection in passenger foot well (red and black wires) put a volt meter in the terminals coming down from dash (remove white insert on plug) with ignition on and fan switch on 0 place meter on terminals when the switch is moved to position 1 you should get 12.1v and as you move switch to higher positions voltage will rise but not by a lot, if you have voltage on all positions then its the motor at fault not the resistor pack. could be water ingress from air intake as there is no cover it just goes straight to the motor or it could be clogged by leaves and other junk its sucked in, remove blower motor and try putting 12v straight to motor if it wont run replace!!!!
 
#70 ·
Thanks to all of you for the hints and tips on this issue, especially removing the clock display when fitting duct. Now I will try to add a little help myself:-

When removing and re-fitting the duct be aware that it can dislodge the vent 'open/close' control - it's a small grey lever that clips onto the butterfly shaft and has a slot that locates over a pin on the thumb-wheel. It can be re-fitted if you have a mirror and a torch but if you close the vent flap before removing the duct that helps avoid the problem.

I managed, with brute force, to remove the fan unit without sawing off the bracket but it moved the fan on its shaft so when re-fitted the fan was binding -Beware!
 
#71 ·
Hi there ,
I've also got heater problems , fan only works on setting 4.
I know it's probably the thermal fuse in the resister pack but how do you get the dash off , I've taken the two screws out that are under the left and right hand speaker vents ? but how hard do you have to pull the dash board
I'm using all my strength and it won't budge I've heard a nasty cracking noise .
 
#72 ·
The ducting to the passenger ventilator duct just didn't want to release from the passenger vent on my RX4, no matter how hard I pulled and twisted it from the centre.

Here's how it's done:

Lever out the swivelling vent air director unit from the dash panel with a small screwdriver slid into the pivot points - go carefully and it should spring out with no real effort.

This reveals the airflow flap, which you need to open fully to reach just beyond it, where you'll see the inside of the duct. Now simply prise off its mounting from the inside with your fingers
 
#73 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi Barney,
I have a 2002 Scenic 1 version 2, 1600cc petrol Dynamique with standard aircon

Blower motor and fan are at full blast once ignition is on. While the heater and aircon indicators respont to controls the blower just keeps going.
I tried pulling fuse 28 which feeds the heater control panel but it still keeps roaring away.

If you have any ideas on a fix but also how in the mean time to shut it down I would be very greatful

David

I've created a thread of your very own "Heater Fan Stays on". Please refrain from Hi-jacking futher threads, Thank you
 
#79 ·
not sure if anyone can shed a light, blower tested and running, resistor pack tested and has continuity. fuses ok that leaves blower control but not know a way of testing it.

there is a sound like a weer when switch 2 point 1 on circulating air and then same noise when i turn back to zero
 
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