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It's a simple job really, and the results are good!
You will need:
10mm socket (I think!)
Small flatblade screwdriver
Sealant (to make sure)
Bear with me, I've written this as an idiots guide. If you find I'm a little patronising, I apologise!
There are three bolts or possibly four to loosen.
Unscrew the black plastic cover and you'll see the gold bolts hidden behind. All you have to do is remove these and slide the connector off the light board,then carefully remove the unit.
On the phase two clusters, the light board is longer than the old units so part of the bodywork has to be cut so it can fit. This is easy - a normal hacksaw will do the job in seconds as the metal is so thin. Make sure you keep the cut to the 'clean' bit on the metal, this is the bit that is protected by the weather seal. I decided to cut two lines each and fold the metal back, to minimise the amount of exposed, sharp metal! Try to measure how much u need to cut. There are one or two holes you'll be 'cutting out' but theres no problem as long as you keep the sawn-out area within the seal on the light units.
After you've cut enough back to allow the new units to fit, removing wires from the connector plug is the next task. This is simple; underneath each connection is a small plastic tine. Lift it a bit and the wire will slide out. Each wire is numbered on the connector from 1 to 6 which will make reconnecting them easier.
The fogs in the new light clusters are redundant and can thus be wired up as stoplights.
Note that although ti's the sam bulb used for the stop/tail lights, the power supplied comes from two separate circuits.
Now the connector, with the wires correctly connected for the new setup. The standard wiring order for the phase one is as follows:
1 - Indicator
2 - Negative
3 - Reversing Light
4 - Sidelight
5 - Brake Light
6 - Negative
The order below is the new order you will need for the wires if you intend to re-wire the brakelights. The colours differentiate the different functions:
1 - Black - Negative
2 - Beige/Orange - Indicators (orange on the n/s and beige on the o/s for me)
3 - Black - Negative
4 - Blue - Sidelights
5 - White - Reversing lights
6 - Brown - Brake lights
The wires will just push back in to the connector, don't forget the connector is usefully numbered.
Reconnect the connector to the lights and test all the functions. If all is not well, double check the guide.
If everything works as it should then refit the lights. I'd advise putting extra sealant on the lights, as you've disturbed the light unit seal.
You may find a slight gap between the top of the units and the bodywork, near the boot hinges and seal, as the body may be slightly different from the phase two (it varies from car to car, oddly). Seal all around this area to prevent water ingress. I used Plumbers Mait as it was all I had to hand but good quality automotive sealant will work fine.
If you do not seal the edges of the lights you may find water can leak in to the clusters themselves and the boot; this is a side effect of the slight panel differece mentioned above.
Currently in klw7me's garage:
2000 renault megane coupe 1.6 16v