If you are going to do them yourself......
Simple without worrying about finding the right pipe or flare tools
After jacking up and supporting......
Get underneath and identify the offending pipes.
Remove any clips holding them.
Find where the ends are and undo the nuts...hint, investing in a proper "Brake" spanner is worth it. (These are open "ring spanners" like this one
Check the size needed)
Have a bowl to catch fluid that will run out...save it running all over the drive
Remove the pipe.... you may have to cut it to slide it out from above the fuel tank or even cut either side of the tank and leave the remainder in place...
If you do cut, measure the distance between cuts and make a note of it.... important.
Take the removed pipe to your local motor factors (or friendly garage) and they will make up a straight length (which is why if any missing you can tell them how much to add.) with the right end flares and nuts.
Typical pricing is couple of quid a foot plus end fittings..may vary so phone around and ask.
Back under car and carefully bend as needed to get the shape right (photos before you remove are useful.)
With copper pipe, bends easily by hand but do not repeatedly bend in same place as it can (will) crack
Get the bends right at one end and the nut loosely tightened into fitting, then work your way along, re fitting into clips, until you can get the other end into it's fitting.
Cable ties if needed, try to keep it neat, not only looks better but makes MOT inspectors believe it's been done properly.
Sketching the old pipe before removing (or straightening) so you know where the bends are... ie, bend at 4", bend at 6" will help guide when refitting, as will photos.
When happy, fully tighten both ends.
Will then need to re-fill with new fluid and bleed brakes..... plenty of youtube videos on that process but if unsure, we can talk you through it.