Join Date: Jul 2005
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I personally don't think you need to take bulb failure into account, but even if you do, a 6 channel bypass relay shouldn't hike up the price too much.
As for Scotchloks - they're great if you know how to use them properly. Lots of people don't (including professionals) and that's when they start to cause problems.
First of all, they don't work well with pliers, even though they're the obvious tool to use. You're not squeezing the blade in squarely and they generally don't give enough leverage to drive the blade fully home and ensure that you've properly penetrated the insulation. Long-nosed mole grips do a much better job, squeezing the blade more squarely and with greater force.
Secondly, there are different Scotchloks for different jobs. If you use the blue ones on very thin wires, then you won't get a good connection - you should be using the red ones instead. For really meaty wires, there are big yellow ones too - these might come in handy on the 12S feed if you're having one.
If you fit the wrong Scotchlok for the job or fit the right one incorrectly, then you're asking for trouble. But in over 20 years of using the things, I've never known a correctly chosen and properly fitted one to cause any trouble.
Detachable towbars have their good points and their bad. The car looks better with the towbar removed (though if the ST is anything like the hatch, the socket will always be visible.) You don't smash your shins against it while loading things in and out of the boot either (well not unless you leave it attached.) Then again, you have an extra item of junk kicking around the boot, and there will be times when you forget to put the thing on before loading up the boot and then realise that you have to go digging for the towbar. They can also develop play in the socket (mine has, though I'm assured by the manufacturer that it's still safe.) A flange style bar can be tightened, but a detachable one cannot.
Currently in Horatio's garage:
2010 Laguna III Initiale.