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Grand Scenic Electronic Handbrake Stripdown Plus Photos

153K views 59 replies 36 participants last post by  samorai 
#1 · (Edited)
How to remove and take apart the handbrake control unit on a 2005 Grand Scenic II.

Most of this guide was written after reading a brake unit replacement by Gonescenile I suggest you read that also.

This is my version with unit strip down and service from my experience working on it.
The photos should make sense of things detailed in the text.
Do not start the car at anytime during this process.

Park the car on level ground, chock the front wheels. If the unit still operates ok but the cables do not release fully do the following. Put the key card in the ignition and press the start button until the instrument panel lights up and the steering lock releases. Operate the handbrake so that it is OFF. Press the button twice and remove the key card. It will beep and complain that the handbrake is OFF. I then disconnected the battery negative terminal.
Put the car in gear.

I jacked the car up at the Off/side jack point, until just before the wheel lifted, just to give me more room to work under the car.Use an axelstand as well for safety.
Working inside the boot remove the boot carpet and then the plastic cover just behind the normal rear seats. Three big plastic knobs. Remove the jack and tools.
Lift up the extra rear right seat; locate the spare wheel release bolt under a small flap in the carpet. Release the spare wheel using the wheel nut spanner or a socket set.
From under the car pull the wheel towards the back of the car and release more cable until you can release the wheel. The mechanism may be a bit rusty so apply plenty of WD40 or similar. Grease the unit later prior to refitting the wheel.

Put the seat down again. Open the central storage section and then remove the plastic cover over the yellow handbrake release handle. Take care not to break the plastic clip. (I did) Pull the handle up a bit but not fully up, as this will release the handbrake mechanism inside the unit. At the top of the handle there is a small plastic clip that needs to be pushed upwards so that the cable nipple can be released from the handle. (See Photo 1)
With the handle removed go under the car and gently pull the black plastic mounting free from the floor. (See Photo 2) Release the two clips holding the cable.

MEASURE the distance from the cable end round nipple to the support arm holding the cable end at the C-clip. If the arm is fully back on its stop then add about 10mm to this measurement. If not estimate the extra needed plus the previous length. This is so that when you have reassemble the control unit you can set the internal screw to the required length of exposed cable to fit the unit back on to the callipers. (See photos)

Unbolt the nuts on the actuating arms of the brake callipers and carefully lever them off the splined shaft. This makes releasing and refitting the cables easier.
Carefully remove the C-clip on the cable end, the clip will be a bit rusty and you don’t want it to break if you are going to use it again. (A new unit will have new C-clips).
With the cables now free push them sideways out of the mounts half way along the cable. On the N/Side above the exhaust pipe there is a tie wrap that will need cut as this holds the cable in place.
Unclip the electrical cable on the unit. Lift the small bar slightly and turn it, this should eject the plug as it turns. Release the clip holding the cable to the unit.

The unit has 3 mounting points, two bolts located in the recess beside the jack storage area inside the car and one smaller bolt holding the unit in place from underneath. Working inside the car release the two bolts holding the control unit. (They have big square washers underneath them)
The unit is now only held on by one screw under the car as shown in the photo. When you unbolt this, the unit is free. Feed the cables around the springs etc to get it out from under the car.

Check the rubber shock mounts on the unit, one of mine was broken.

To open the unit unscrew the Torx screws on the cover. Very carefully prise up the lid and try to remove the lid without damaging the seal beneath it. Work a thin blunt tool round the seal to release it, try to keep it intact so that it doesn’t leak when refitted. Easier said than done, use silicon gasket sealant sparingly when refitting.

With the lid removed your will think, this is a bit complicated. However the unit is quite simple, mechanically that is. Avoid damaging the circuit board.

Using a large spanner release the cable end caps. If the cables are jammed and the inner cable does not move inside the cable try the following. Find a way of holding the unit so that one cable faces the floor.
Hold it in a vice or get someone to hold it for you. Fill up the big cable end at the unit end with WD40 or release oil. Try bending the cable back and forth all the way up towards the top to try and work the lubricant down the inner cable. Keep doing this until the cable moves freely. Eventually it should. I used 3 in 1 oil once the cables were free.
Check that the calliper end is not broken or the inner cable plastic covering wrinkled. If they are they will probably always give you trouble.
If you can find replacement cables then they are easily fitted. Reno does not sell them. Donor cables from a scrap unit will probably have the same faults. You might get lucky.
Do the same to the other side.
The length of the outer cable is important so do not remove any damaged rusty broken bits unless you fabricate a spacer to go on the cable to compensate for the missing cable. I did and that caused other problems. (The motor wound the cable in and jammed as the screw fully wound in due to too much slack cable, see photo)

You will see from the internal photos how the unit comes apart. First release the plastic clip on the O/side end where it meets the Switch assembly. Carefully prise out the lugs a little either side and it should slip off. Release the cable from the switch peg. The emergency release cable pulls a round bead on the internal small cable on to the release arm; this disengages the switch assembly from the motor screw assembly. This is why once the emergency cable is pulled the brake will remain off until this is re-engaged. Carefully remove the plug on the flexi cable at the PCB end. Note how it is fitted.

Three Torx screws hold the motor in place remove them and carefully lift the motor partly out. Unscrew the N/Side cable out of the tube that goes though the motor. This is a LEFT HAND THREAD. The cable can be removed from the unit and the tube part from the motor. The tube part should rotate freely on the release actuator block.

Do not take the Switch apart; it is very unlikely that this unit will fail. You will not get it back together as the top gets damaged taking it apart.
I have shown it in detail in the photos to show how it works. Basically the action of pulling the cables on, compresses the spring and the pin with the magnet moves with it to operate the switch in the plastic lid. This indicates that the brake is on. Releasing it does the reverse. If the emergency handbrake lever is pulled then the switch will never indicate that the brake is on, as it will not move. (The instrument service light would come on and stay on)
(As we have the battery disconnected no fault codes will be stored. That’s why I did it, plus safety)

Before you put the motor back replace the rest of the assembly without the tube through the motor. With the main cables fitted CHECK the exposed section at the end of the cable. Rotate the tube section until you have the correct length of exposed cable as measured before removing from the calliper. Allow a bit extra rather than less.
Now measure the distance between the screw end and the tube end. Unscrew the cable and refit with the motor in place, screw the cable in until the length of screw is the same as above. Bolt the motor in place.

Grease all the moving parts. ENSURE the brake release cable passes through the actuator arm. Refit the plug from the Switch to the PCB.
You may want to leave the lid off until you test the unit on the car its up to you.

To refit the unit, run the cables in the general direction they would take.

Loosely fit the small supporting bolt before locating and tightening the two bolts inside the car followed by tightening the small lower bolt fully.
Clip the cables though the brackets and feed the cables though the mounting plates on the callipers.
Fit the C-clips. If you have measured correctly the cables should have enough exposed cable for the actuator arms to be refitted.
Before fitting, put the arm on the shaft and CHECK that the brake calliper mechanism works properly. It should not stick and it should return fully to the end stop.
The wheel may have to be raised off the ground to check that the pads and discs do not bind with the cable not fitted.
There is no point in fixing the handbrake cable if the calliper and discs are not operating properly. Check the travel of the actuating arm.
If everything is OK refit the arm and cable with the arm against the end stop. Torque the Nut up.

Refit the emergency release cable, clip in place, pushed through the floor and fit the handle.

Check that all bolts and clips are secure; refit the wiring loom plug and clip.

Lower the jack.
Take the car out of gear.
Refit the battery terminal. (You will need to reset the radio, hope you have the codes)

Insert you key card and press the start button until the steering unlocks. Don’t start the engine. (The car may be complaining that the hand brake is off)

Pull on the handbrake switch. The motor should operate and take up the slack cable. Release the handbrake and repeat a few times with your foot on the footbrake, this should self adjust the calliper position. Hopefully it works OK without any strange noises. (If there are stop and investigate)

Check that the lever on the calliper releases fully and that the brake does not bind. Check the handbrake later on a road test.

If you did not fit the unit lid earlier do it now if all is well. If the seal was damaged use a little silicon gasket sealant. If it was intact use a little silicon grease on it.

If you do need to replace the pads or adjust the calliper you WILL need a brake winding/unwinding tool.

If you do remove the calliper do NOT let it dangle on the handbrake cable that WILL damage the cable.

If the cables move freely and appear OK then the pads may be causing the problem being worn right down, you may also need a special tool to release some slack cable from the control unit.
I made a tool up for that purpose from an old tyre lever and two lengths of 10mm screwed rod as in the photos. Fit to the cable as shown (with the handbrake off) ( See photos 29 & 30)

Screw up the nuts until the cable is tight. Operate the handbrake. Release the handbrake, there should be some slack on the cable now. Screw the nuts up to take up the slack. Repeat the process until there is enough slack cable so that the actuator arm will be at its fully open position. Adjust the calliper action on the disc so that it works correctly. Refit the cable and arm.
DO NOT operate the handbrake without the special tool ON or the cable fitted to the brake correctly. If you do the cable will get drawn into the unit and keep going until the motor jams. You will need to strip the unit as above to sort it out.

NOTE 1: This will also cause the brake fail on the instrument panel to come on and stay on. The same will happen if you pull the emergency release handle or if there is any other fault. You will need to get it reset by Reno or an independent garage preferably.

Note 2: This unit is on the CAN Bus and has the VIN number embedded into it when programmed. This means that a unit of another car will not work. Since the unit can be reprogrammed in theory it should be able to be reprogrammed. However as it has a different VIN that the car its fitted to it may not be recognised on the bus.
I have heard that it cannot be reprogrammed but that may be the reason.
A brand new unit is blank and has to be programmed using the clip software but this probably sees it as a new blank unit that can be programmed.

If the above does not fix your handbrake problems or the motor does not run, then the electronics may be the cause.
You will need to check that the clutch, brake and handbrake switch assembly are all working.
I do not have a wiring diagram and the Haynes manual is sadly lacking with no references to the electronic handbrake whatsoever.
I don’t know if there are any fuses in the circuit.
The plug on the unit has a lot of connections. The big pins are power. The smaller have the Can bus wires and I imagine the rest are to the switches mentioned above plus control wires to the instrument panel and the main ecu.
I don’t know so don’t take my word for it
This was about stripping down the brake unit after all...

Good luck if you try a strip down it is not very difficult.

I hope this clears up all questions on the Electronic Handbrake.:d

My Cables were too far gone and I had the “pleasure” of having my wallet dipped for £530, unit fitted and programmed. The units cost around £420 upwards and programming £48 (independents) and from £60 by Reno (plus time to fit):mad:
I would have fitted it myself but I ran out of time, wife needed the car.....
:eek:
 

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#29 ·
I have come to the conclusion that nothing is happening when I pull the emergency handle in the boot of my Grand Scennic II and I do not hear any sound when I do the reset as found on another thread on this site.

I have checked all the fuses under the passenger seat and they are all fine.

What do I need to do to fix this?
 
#30 ·
I have just reinstalled the handbrake and all looks fine excepty I had to pull on the emergency cable in order to get the yellow handle back on again and now I cannot get the handbrake to reset. The dashboard says Handbrake Fault.

Noting happens when I try to reset the handbrake following the instructions on this site.

What have I done wrong (I had the handbrake working fine out of the car and feel that it was putting the yellow emergency handle that did the harm)? :confused:
 
#33 · (Edited by Moderator)
If everyone would post comprehensive articles like this, there would be much less need to hover in the internet world desperately searching answers... (In other words, thank you!)

Inspite of very detailed case description, I'd like to get a bit deeper asking the value for the shunt (current sensing) resistor since mine is partially merged to oxygen (I can't see any markings).

Another thing is this position sensor (inclinometer). What is its function? Will the handbrake still work when the car is parked on its roof in to the ditch? I was just thinking whether the brake works when it is investigated in some other than "normal" position.
 
#34 ·
The inclinometer, I believe is to assist with hill starts.
Is this the same thing as the position sensor, which stops the system motoring too far & jamming?
Re the resistor, try spraying with WD40 or silicon oil, it often helps readability of faded legends.
Fortunately, I've never had to repair one, but I'm learning, just in case.:eek:
 
#40 ·
Hi I have got electronic handbrake issues with my Meganne.
I took it to my mechanic who replaced it with one off another scrap car.
The car stills comes up with Handbrake Fault and no sound is being heard from the motor to show that it is being activated, when I drive the car and remove the card, on occasion it says handbrake is off but then goes into fault mode.
The fuse under the seat is ok, and the car recognises when I pull the activator on the dash as it goes into fault mode.
Is it my understanding from the first thread that the unit cannot be interchanged between cars. If this is the case , is there anything that can be done to allow the car to recognise a different unit has been fitted? Any help would be appreciated..
Reading the initial thread it says that
 
#41 ·
Hi
Can anyone please help Im absolutely stuck with so much varying and confusing advice!

My Ehandbrake seized (stuck on) and I had to pull the dreaded yellow lever of death.

Several mechanics tried to buy my whole car for 30 -60 quid telling me to give up and that it would cost me a min of 300 to fix with a 2nd hand unit and could be up to 600
Thing is ...I refuse to give up the engine on this 06 is really good and the car runs smashing ...Just obvs fail mot with no handbrake.

We followed this strip down sucessfully and have the whole unit and cables off intact to find major corrosion of the cables (theyve actually split at one end) so I cut the dead one off.

Is there any way of testing the motor to see if it is just the cables or the motor/module at fault please? Father in law has all sorts of tools - electric testers etc.?

Im also having an horrific time locating replacement cables cheap enough (been quoted 185 when a recon full unit is only 180 - thing is am unemployed and thats a lot of money to me :( anyone have any ideas where I can locate new cables for the 7 seater cheap enough please?

Alternitively looking at manual conversion - has anyone had any experience of this or am I going to come across the same needle in haystack issues?
 
#43 ·
My EPB on my newly acquired 05 plate grand scenic was not working after the yellow handle was pulled.
No amount of reset attempts would work so today I got around to taking a closer look.
I'm posting this to say inspection is possible with less faff:

I found after removing the cable from the handle and unbolting the unit from the car I could drop it down without disconnecting anything else.
I got the lid off and it had clearly been examined before with loads of new white grease. I couldn't see a problem but was careful to firmly push the release cable as far under the motor as possible. This must have been the issue because after loosely bolting it back I was delighted to discover it was working again so I properly greased inside and silicone sealed the lid back on and bolted it back in place and it is all working correctly. I hope it'll last.

Now how to get the warning message off the dash?
 
#58 ·
Underneath the passenger seat is a drawer.Remove the draw to access the fuse box below. You will probably see a minimum of 2 relay cubes and 2 blade prong fuses...the white one (25 amp) should be removed and replaced with a new one ..replace drawer unit , start engine and 'hey presto' parking brake fault on display should have disappeared. Usually sorted after 1ST attempt, but occasionally you may have to repeat .
 
#45 ·
You'll see from my earlier post that I've been here before - sadly - it didnt last.

Grand Scenic:
How can the drivers side cable be removed from the end of the magnetic switch. i cant see how to remove it one mine. I have another very new unit from a scenic which only has one cable - I'm sure if I could remove the drivers side cable from the unit currently on the car then I could fit the scenic one on.
 
#46 ·
Hi Guys,

I have a renault grand scenic 2006 and twice now the EHB has failed first time was at an MOT testing when I arrived to pick up car the guys said it would not move, so I had to pull the emergency realease. I took it to my mates garage and stripped out the PCB and the relay had bubbled got one off ebay and my mechanic soldered it back on and voila it worked fine he cleared the codes with his snap on comp.

Then 4 months later I left it at a valeting place and on return they said the same thing so again had to pull emergency cord. Now this car has not been a problem for besides when left with monkeys that manage to screw it up, I think the error this time was something like they had applied the brake while in motion or something on computer!

So stripped it again and my mechanic tested the motor as relay looked fine and the motor was dead he had a spare so he fitted that and we put unit on car! Then plugged in snap on computer and tried clearing the error codes they all cleared but the one 'the emergency handbrake cable has been pulled'.

took neutral off battery and tried again still this one error code would not go tested the motor on the car and it worked fine so it maybe down to the load sensor but the ribbon and sensor unit look fine but it would not work because of this one error!

Any suggestions as to what might be the problem please ?
 
#52 ·
Sorry for stealing the thread, but i to, have had all the problems with the EPB, and found this thread very usefull, so i hope it's allright that i add some info and pictures?

For me, it is both the blue relay, and a tiny bit of brushes back in the motor, so i could just as well change the brushes, as everything allready is taken apard.

I started by dismantle the motor, so i had the brushes, and the brush-holder in my hand. I found some spare brushes, laying around, filed them to fit, and simply changed them..[emoji106]

And now one working motor again. Now i'm just wayting for the relay, to arrive from France. [emoji4]

 
#53 ·
Just had the misfortune to do mine.

The o/s was caked in rust; the c clip had been taken off (somebody tried to botch it before) and the cable had seized because of no movement. Managed to free cable and bully the actuator in moving. Don't ask me how this passed an mot last time out. This stuff has been seized for a long time!

New cables £48 (inc vat & del) from Germany.

Need to scrub the caliper and check that then it's chocks away! (hopefully)

Couldn't have done it without this thread! Many thanks Gonsecenile!
 
#54 ·
I am at my wits end - Please could someone offer me any advice ?
So I have taken the handbrake motor off the car and had it repaired and fixed - both cables have been replaced and it was all looking lovely and new. I've bolted the box down and connected the cables to the callipers - replace the rear pads and given everything a good clean up. But the problem is that the handbrake still doesn't work. there seems to be no communication from the switch to the box. The lights are still flashing on the switch so I am assuming the fuse hasn't gone. Ive tried the reset procedure detailed in this thread but nothing seems to work. Please help. Happy to pass on any knowledge Ive gained getting this far. Thanks everyone
 
#56 ·
Hello Everyone - Me again ... Still having problems with the flipping parking break.
Im wondering if anyone has any experience of replacing the ECU in the parking break module ? - Ive had the module repaired - new motor, new gearbox and new relay circuit board. but the car does not communicate with the parking module. Renault techs have run diagnostics and its still not playing ball. All the fuses are fine and maybe the loom is damaged but the techs said that it was trying to communicate but the ECU does not respond. Does anyone have anymore advice ???
Please help.
 
#59 ·
How to remove and take apart the handbrake control unit on a 2005 Grand Scenic II.

Most of this guide was written after reading a brake unit replacement by Gonescenile I suggest you read that also.

This is my version with unit strip down and service from my experience working on it.
The photos should make sense of things detailed in the text.
Do not start the car at anytime during this process.

Park the car on level ground, chock the front wheels. If the unit still operates ok but the cables do not release fully do the following. Put the key card in the ignition and press the start button until the instrument panel lights up and the steering lock releases. Operate the handbrake so that it is OFF. Press the button twice and remove the key card. It will beep and complain that the handbrake is OFF. I then disconnected the battery negative terminal.
Put the car in gear.

I jacked the car up at the Off/side jack point, until just before the wheel lifted, just to give me more room to work under the car.Use an axelstand as well for safety.
Working inside the boot remove the boot carpet and then the plastic cover just behind the normal rear seats. Three big plastic knobs. Remove the jack and tools.
Lift up the extra rear right seat; locate the spare wheel release bolt under a small flap in the carpet. Release the spare wheel using the wheel nut spanner or a socket set.
From under the car pull the wheel towards the back of the car and release more cable until you can release the wheel. The mechanism may be a bit rusty so apply plenty of WD40 or similar. Grease the unit later prior to refitting the wheel.

Put the seat down again. Open the central storage section and then remove the plastic cover over the yellow handbrake release handle. Take care not to break the plastic clip. (I did) Pull the handle up a bit but not fully up, as this will release the handbrake mechanism inside the unit. At the top of the handle there is a small plastic clip that needs to be pushed upwards so that the cable nipple can be released from the handle. (See Photo 1)
With the handle removed go under the car and gently pull the black plastic mounting free from the floor. (See Photo 2) Release the two clips holding the cable.

MEASURE the distance from the cable end round nipple to the support arm holding the cable end at the C-clip. If the arm is fully back on its stop then add about 10mm to this measurement. If not estimate the extra needed plus the previous length. This is so that when you have reassemble the control unit you can set the internal screw to the required length of exposed cable to fit the unit back on to the callipers. (See photos)

Unbolt the nuts on the actuating arms of the brake callipers and carefully lever them off the splined shaft. This makes releasing and refitting the cables easier.
Carefully remove the C-clip on the cable end, the clip will be a bit rusty and you don’t want it to break if you are going to use it again. (A new unit will have new C-clips).
With the cables now free push them sideways out of the mounts half way along the cable. On the N/Side above the exhaust pipe there is a tie wrap that will need cut as this holds the cable in place.
Unclip the electrical cable on the unit. Lift the small bar slightly and turn it, this should eject the plug as it turns. Release the clip holding the cable to the unit.

The unit has 3 mounting points, two bolts located in the recess beside the jack storage area inside the car and one smaller bolt holding the unit in place from underneath. Working inside the car release the two bolts holding the control unit. (They have big square washers underneath them)
The unit is now only held on by one screw under the car as shown in the photo. When you unbolt this, the unit is free. Feed the cables around the springs etc to get it out from under the car.

Check the rubber shock mounts on the unit, one of mine was broken.

To open the unit unscrew the Torx screws on the cover. Very carefully prise up the lid and try to remove the lid without damaging the seal beneath it. Work a thin blunt tool round the seal to release it, try to keep it intact so that it doesn’t leak when refitted. Easier said than done, use silicon gasket sealant sparingly when refitting.

With the lid removed your will think, this is a bit complicated. However the unit is quite simple, mechanically that is. Avoid damaging the circuit board.

Using a large spanner release the cable end caps. If the cables are jammed and the inner cable does not move inside the cable try the following. Find a way of holding the unit so that one cable faces the floor.
Hold it in a vice or get someone to hold it for you. Fill up the big cable end at the unit end with WD40 or release oil. Try bending the cable back and forth all the way up towards the top to try and work the lubricant down the inner cable. Keep doing this until the cable moves freely. Eventually it should. I used 3 in 1 oil once the cables were free.
Check that the calliper end is not broken or the inner cable plastic covering wrinkled. If they are they will probably always give you trouble.
If you can find replacement cables then they are easily fitted. Reno does not sell them. Donor cables from a scrap unit will probably have the same faults. You might get lucky.
Do the same to the other side.
The length of the outer cable is important so do not remove any damaged rusty broken bits unless you fabricate a spacer to go on the cable to compensate for the missing cable. I did and that caused other problems. (The motor wound the cable in and jammed as the screw fully wound in due to too much slack cable, see photo)

You will see from the internal photos how the unit comes apart. First release the plastic clip on the O/side end where it meets the Switch assembly. Carefully prise out the lugs a little either side and it should slip off. Release the cable from the switch peg. The emergency release cable pulls a round bead on the internal small cable on to the release arm; this disengages the switch assembly from the motor screw assembly. This is why once the emergency cable is pulled the brake will remain off until this is re-engaged. Carefully remove the plug on the flexi cable at the PCB end. Note how it is fitted.

Three Torx screws hold the motor in place remove them and carefully lift the motor partly out. Unscrew the N/Side cable out of the tube that goes though the motor. This is a LEFT HAND THREAD. The cable can be removed from the unit and the tube part from the motor. The tube part should rotate freely on the release actuator block.

Do not take the Switch apart; it is very unlikely that this unit will fail. You will not get it back together as the top gets damaged taking it apart.
I have shown it in detail in the photos to show how it works. Basically the action of pulling the cables on, compresses the spring and the pin with the magnet moves with it to operate the switch in the plastic lid. This indicates that the brake is on. Releasing it does the reverse. If the emergency handbrake lever is pulled then the switch will never indicate that the brake is on, as it will not move. (The instrument service light would come on and stay on)
(As we have the battery disconnected no fault codes will be stored. That’s why I did it, plus safety)

Before you put the motor back replace the rest of the assembly without the tube through the motor. With the main cables fitted CHECK the exposed section at the end of the cable. Rotate the tube section until you have the correct length of exposed cable as measured before removing from the calliper. Allow a bit extra rather than less.
Now measure the distance between the screw end and the tube end. Unscrew the cable and refit with the motor in place, screw the cable in until the length of screw is the same as above. Bolt the motor in place.

Grease all the moving parts. ENSURE the brake release cable passes through the actuator arm. Refit the plug from the Switch to the PCB.
You may want to leave the lid off until you test the unit on the car its up to you.

To refit the unit, run the cables in the general direction they would take.

Loosely fit the small supporting bolt before locating and tightening the two bolts inside the car followed by tightening the small lower bolt fully.
Clip the cables though the brackets and feed the cables though the mounting plates on the callipers.
Fit the C-clips. If you have measured correctly the cables should have enough exposed cable for the actuator arms to be refitted.
Before fitting, put the arm on the shaft and CHECK that the brake calliper mechanism works properly. It should not stick and it should return fully to the end stop.
The wheel may have to be raised off the ground to check that the pads and discs do not bind with the cable not fitted.
There is no point in fixing the handbrake cable if the calliper and discs are not operating properly. Check the travel of the actuating arm.
If everything is OK refit the arm and cable with the arm against the end stop. Torque the Nut up.

Refit the emergency release cable, clip in place, pushed through the floor and fit the handle.

Check that all bolts and clips are secure; refit the wiring loom plug and clip.

Lower the jack.
Take the car out of gear.
Refit the battery terminal. (You will need to reset the radio, hope you have the codes)

Insert you key card and press the start button until the steering unlocks. Don’t start the engine. (The car may be complaining that the hand brake is off)

Pull on the handbrake switch. The motor should operate and take up the slack cable. Release the handbrake and repeat a few times with your foot on the footbrake, this should self adjust the calliper position. Hopefully it works OK without any strange noises. (If there are stop and investigate)

Check that the lever on the calliper releases fully and that the brake does not bind. Check the handbrake later on a road test.

If you did not fit the unit lid earlier do it now if all is well. If the seal was damaged use a little silicon gasket sealant. If it was intact use a little silicon grease on it.

If you do need to replace the pads or adjust the calliper you WILL need a brake winding/unwinding tool.

If you do remove the calliper do NOT let it dangle on the handbrake cable that WILL damage the cable.

If the cables move freely and appear OK then the pads may be causing the problem being worn right down, you may also need a special tool to release some slack cable from the control unit.
I made a tool up for that purpose from an old tyre lever and two lengths of 10mm screwed rod as in the photos. Fit to the cable as shown (with the handbrake off) ( See photos 29 & 30)

Screw up the nuts until the cable is tight. Operate the handbrake. Release the handbrake, there should be some slack on the cable now. Screw the nuts up to take up the slack. Repeat the process until there is enough slack cable so that the actuator arm will be at its fully open position. Adjust the calliper action on the disc so that it works correctly. Refit the cable and arm.
DO NOT operate the handbrake without the special tool ON or the cable fitted to the brake correctly. If you do the cable will get drawn into the unit and keep going until the motor jams. You will need to strip the unit as above to sort it out.

NOTE 1: This will also cause the brake fail on the instrument panel to come on and stay on. The same will happen if you pull the emergency release handle or if there is any other fault. You will need to get it reset by Reno or an independent garage preferably.

Note 2: This unit is on the CAN Bus and has the VIN number embedded into it when programmed. This means that a unit of another car will not work. Since the unit can be reprogrammed in theory it should be able to be reprogrammed. However as it has a different VIN that the car its fitted to it may not be recognised on the bus.
I have heard that it cannot be reprogrammed but that may be the reason.
A brand new unit is blank and has to be programmed using the clip software but this probably sees it as a new blank unit that can be programmed.

If the above does not fix your handbrake problems or the motor does not run, then the electronics may be the cause.
You will need to check that the clutch, brake and handbrake switch assembly are all working.
I do not have a wiring diagram and the Haynes manual is sadly lacking with no references to the electronic handbrake whatsoever.
I don’t know if there are any fuses in the circuit.
The plug on the unit has a lot of connections. The big pins are power. The smaller have the Can bus wires and I imagine the rest are to the switches mentioned above plus control wires to the instrument panel and the main ecu.
I don’t know so don’t take my word for it
This was about stripping down the brake unit after all...

Good luck if you try a strip down it is not very difficult.

I hope this clears up all questions on the Electronic Handbrake.:d

My Cables were too far gone and I had the “pleasure” of having my wallet dipped for £530, unit fitted and programmed. The units cost around £420 upwards and programming £48 (independents) and from £60 by Reno (plus time to fit):mad:
I would have fitted it myself but I ran out of time, wife needed the car.....

:eek:
 
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