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Megane II rear brakes service - Numpty's guide.
As I am a proper ignorant all things mechanical and my Megane needed loads of work done, I made my mate a cuppa and asked him to do it for me. He agreed on the condition I would be helping and learning, what could possibly go wrong?
It was decided to deal with the rear brakes first, something to do with them making a screeeeeaaaaching noise. Here we go!
1. Loosen up the wheel bolts, lift the car, remove the wheel. My bolts were 19mm.
2. Look at the brake. You will need to undo the bolts keeping the pads' thingy in place (16mm in my case) and the caliper (16mm again).
3. Ditch the old pads if you are fitting new rotors, I did.
4. Clean (with a brush and sandpaper) these bits; if the little copper (or is it brass?) sliders holding the pads are mucky, clean them too. Be gentle, take your time, it'll take 5 mins anyway.
5. Remove the rotor - undo 2 torx bolts. They were quite big but a cycling torx key toolset was sufficient. No drama to be expected unless you drop the disc on your pinky. DON'T! It hurts!
6. Have a coffee/tea, a sarnie/butty, relax. 10 mins won't slow you down but you'll feel waaaaaay better.
7. Your hands need to be spotless, gloves would be handy.
8. The replacement is the opposite of dismantling, so...
- rotor on, 2 torx bolts tight;
- new pads slide onto the u-shaped holding thingy, your clean brass sliding jobbies allow them to move freely without any effort;
- fit the above back in its place with new bolts, should be supplied with the pads;
- with a proper tool (you can pick it up on eBay for a few quid or, as I did, borrow from another car guy for a pint) screw the cylinder into the calliper, it needs to be turned and twisted, you could possibly do it with pliers of some sorts;
BEWARE: if the cylinder, the seals or anything at all looks dodgy, replace it there and then.
BEWARE: in Ireland it is cheaper to buy a complete calliper than to service it, circa 60 Euro delivered. The interweb is your friend.
- fit the calliper nice and tight, but don't go OTT tightening, no need for a yard-long piece of scaffolding for some extra leverage, honest!
- put the wheel back on only if you've checked it isn't too ovalised, too severe damage to the rim will knacker the expensive bearings which sit in the rotor;
- tighten the NEW bolts you remembered to buy before you started the overhaul;
- lower the car;
- RE-TIGHTEN THE WHEEL BOLTS!!!!!
The job took us some 2 hrs, the other wheel was done under an hour. I took pictures of the process, they're attached, I believe.
It was an easy job as I had nice disc and pads replacements from TRW (the rear brakes on my Megane are TRW, unlike the front), with the ABS sensors fitted. There was absolutely no drama, if I could do it anybody can.
Currently in Hairychested's garage:
2003 Renault Megane II 1.6 16V automatic hatchback; Honda NT650 Bros Mk.1; On-One Inbred SS & 456 Summer Season, both 16"; Scott Octane custom; Marin B17 SS custom.