Going to replace front and back brakes on my van tomorrow.
Getting pads from Euro car parts at £14.34 front and same for rear Eicher is the brand name any good?.
can any body help with a step by step guide and do I need any special tool?.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Yes, you need a wind back tool, RH thread and the correct adaptor. Just turning the piston is not enough, you need some possitive pressure on it too to make it retract. I got my tool from eBay, about £30 and It pays for itself the first time you use it.
When you say winder for each side in the kit
Ones LH & ones RH threaded
I'd only need the RH would'nt i ? clockwise.
Rear single pot calipers would be easy,
front 2 pot, you have to wedge a piece of wood on 1 pot to stop it coming out while you wind other one in - correct ?
Good grief, piece of wood and a g-clamp. I remember changing the ring gear with an oven, freezer(compartment in the fridge), and a rubber mallet. Now, if you don't have computerised equipment, you can't do any work on a car.
I have the identical set and its good and I payed a great deal more for it than that..I'm sure I could have got mine to you so you could use it but to late you have bought it now..:d
On the pads in question in post 1 ..avoid they are low quality..seen many a write up on brake fade on other forums with those..
I have the identical set and its good and I payed a great deal more for it than that..I'm sure I could have got mine to you so you could use it but to late you have bought it now..:d
On the pads in question in post 1 ..avoid they are low quality..seen many a write up on brake fade on other forums with those..
Yes, see it, I would'nt buy that sh*t, you forget i spent nearly 6 years looking for bolt on bits for my Peugeot 405 & some of those bits were one off's. I know what is good & what to steer clear of.
Cheers Phil :d
Renault Trafic - Covering May2001 to 2011 (Y to 11 reg) Right then, Sunday morning the sun is shining, time to tackle the front discs & pads:
You will need : Pads(4) & new guide pin bolts 4 off, Discs (2) & 2 M8 disc retaining bolts T40 torx head, 12mm socket, 18mm socket, torque wrench, hide or wooden mallet Jack, axle stands, anti-seize compound (copper grease), syringe & glass jar. Brake cleaner & small soft brush, eye protection & mask. ·If not fitting discs then do not follow instructions marked with a bullet
Jack up front of your van & support it on axle stands Take cap of brake fluid reservoir
Take the road wheel off Undo the 2 guide pin bolts (12mm socket) lift off & support the calliper
Remove the 2 brake pads
·Undo the M8 bolt holding the disc on (T40 torx)
·Undo the 2 mounting bracket bolts (18mm socket) & remove the mounting bracket
·Remove the disc by giving it a few taps on the rear face. (wear eye protection) Push in the pistons using a retraction tool
(pistons are not threaded on the front) Use a piece of wood on the other piston to prevent it coming out
KEEP AN EYE ON THE FLUID if needed, draw some out with a syringe & put in a glass jar.
Clean everything using brake cleaner & a soft brush[/FONT][/SIZE]
(wear a mask & eye protection) Now you can put it all back together: (copper grease all threads prior to assembly) ·Put some copper grease on hub face before putting new disc on
·Clean new disc faces with a suitable solvent
·Hold disc in place with new M8 bolt (21 Nm or 15 lbf ft)
·Fit mounting bracket & torque up the 2 bolts (107Nm or 79 lbf ft) Fit new brake pads & apply a little copper grease to the back plates Fit calliper & torque up the guide pin 2 bolts (35 Nm or 26 lbf ft)
Refit the flexible brake hose back into its bracket
Refit road wheel & check brake fluid level & refit cap on reservoir. Repeatedly depress brake pedal till normal pressure returns. News discs & pads need to be bedded in so no heavy braking for a few hundred miles.
N.B you may have noticed in photo below that the rubber has perished on one of the pistons, this piston was harder to wind back & will be sorted ASAP.
Remove it completely.
Get a torch inside as much of the bore as you can and see if any sign of rust.
Give it a good squirt of WD and get any gunge out you can
Carefully extend the piston.
This can be done by clamping with a G Clamp and slowly winding open as someone pushes on the brake pedal...clamp the second piston hard.
Don't let the piston escape, you just want to get enough of it out to get an idea if there is dirt which is cleanable or rust/damage that isn't.
If cleanable...WD40, toothbrush whatever, get the dirt out, re-grease, preferably with silicon or high temp grease. New rubber and you're away.
Cheers Phil that is a handy site to know about & i agree with you the piston looked too far gone to do anything about.
Thanks for your advice too DD but not going to muck about as i know the piston is rusty.
Hi all, hopefully a weekend where i can change those calipers over.
I was flicking through ebay & spotted these pads (see photo) which are supplied with a yellow tag - question : what's it for ?
When i replaced my pads (with genuine ones) one was fitted to my NSF (see photo) i believe under one of the mounting bracket bolt heads.
Thank you
Am trying to change the rear brake pads on my Kangoo Trekka. A simple job I thought ... but all my previous cars had drum rear brakes.
The piston on the left side caliper is so far out that I can't refit the caliper over the new brake pads. No amount of G cramp and levers will push the piston back in ... and now I find this thread.
Let me see if I have got it straight. The rear caliper pistons are threaded, so that operation of the handbrake lever on the back of the caliper winds those pistons in to clamp the brake pad. Releasing the handbrake allows the pistons to unwind in some way?(Perhaps there is a ratchet device in there?) But to fit the caliper over new pads the piston has to be "wound back" into the caliper. Since the calipers are handed does that mean the left side piston has to wind in anti clockwise, and the right side caliper winds in clockwise.? :crazy: Grateful thanks for help
Am trying to change the rear brake pads on my Kangoo Trekka. A simple job I thought ... but all my previous cars had drum rear brakes.
The piston on the left side caliper is so far out that I can't refit the caliper over the new brake pads. No amount of G cramp and levers will push the piston back in ... and now I find this thread.
Let me see if I have got it straight. The rear caliper pistons are threaded, so that operation of the handbrake lever on the back of the caliper winds those pistons in to clamp the brake pad. Releasing the handbrake allows the pistons to unwind in some way?(Perhaps there is a ratchet device in there?) But to fit the caliper over new pads the piston has to be "wound back" into the caliper. Since the calipers are handed does that mean the left side piston has to wind in anti clockwise, and the right side caliper winds in clockwise.? :crazy: Grateful thanks for help
On my trafic wind top to front of vehicle. Right stuff clockwise, left anti. Grip piston with pipe grips but don't damage seal. There are brake wind kits on eBay.
On my trafic wind top to front of vehicle. Right stuff clockwise, left anti. Grip piston with pipe grips but don't damage seal. There are brake wind kits on eBay.
Most europian car I have worked on have calipers that wind back in different directions ..but I have noticed posts on here saying some wind back in the same direction..for those that wind back in opposite directions a simple rule applies..passenger sides winds in the same direction as a wheel rolling forward..so the brake piston winds in anticlockwise ..drives side winds in clock wise like a wheel rolling in a forward direction..simple as that..little tip when winding back caliper pistons is to clamp the brake hose and crack that nipple open = less resistance..