So I decided I needed to get around to changing the broken read spring on my Grand Espace III 2001 and that went fine (only did one side, so did a bit of spring compression but still needed to release the shock from the lower point).
Anyhow, noticed how bad the read discs had got, all rusty to heck, and I had already bought the parts so decided just to get on with it that carry on procrastinating.
Renault garage previously been mentioned that one rear caliper was likely seized, but I didn't really take much heed as it was still passing the MoT. Well, couldn't budge the blasted pistons, either of them. Decided they were both shot as the dust boots were all wrinkled up and probably leaking dirt into the pistons, so bought two new calipers. £39.99 from J&R in Birmingham, next day delivery. Perfect. Thanks, guys.
Job went fine, bled the brakes through with fresh fluid, long over due, all hunky dory.
Now, when I went on a test drive, the brake pedal really moved a whole lot more than it ever did before. But not necessarily requiring more pressure, it actually seems to stop quicker with less pressure now.
I figure this is because the rear pots are no longer seized , I'm now actually filling 4 pistons with fluid instead of 2!!! A new feeling!
Would you agree this is the sort of outcome I might expect?
Reason I ask is because I did ponder whether any air bubbles had entered the front circuits during the caliper swap. I don't think that's the case - not sure it even can? Can it?
Well, went to bleed out the front brakes too seeing as the fluid needed flushing through there too and ... aaarrgghhh!!
FRH caliper bleed nipple sheared straight off with barely a hand turn.
Those front calipers are in a bad place, aren't they! They are leading brakes and pick up all the crap straight off the road, rusty as heck. Maybe I could've worked harder at easing the bleeder out, but maybe it was just corrosion, pure and simple.
So now I have a conundrum. Car seems fine, no leaks. I don't think there are air bubbles in the front circuits, but still some old fluid. Will need to swap out those discs pretty soon, also a bit rusty, so could do with the bleed nipple.
1) leave and forget!
2) have a go at getting the bleed nipple out, and replace (does anyone know the thread size - is it a M6 or M7?)
3) get a reconditioned caliper (J&R don't have fronts, so best price I've found is £80 new or £35 recon)
One problem with (3) is that the flexi-hose threads directly to the caliper, no banjo bolt. So I'm figuring I could just rotate the caliper around, holding the hose still, to refit it.
Will that work?
I'm looking at the other end of that flexi and it disappears into the wing, with the ferrule hidden. I don't fancy having to replace that flexi! Anyone got any advice on that if it becomes necessary?