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clio authentique, problem fitting brake shoes

12K views 66 replies 8 participants last post by  Dancingdad 
#1 ·
hello

i am having a problem fitting my brake shoes. i have made a video showing the issue.
https://youtu.be/arLMmvXVU-A

any advice would be great

thanks
simon
 
#34 ·
Make sure that spring is in the right place

Use grease sparingly and only on the adjuster

Considering the bearing issue with it jamming, may be an idea to leave it out when offering up the drum to check initial adjustment...just careful not to damage the inner cage and balls.
Will allow the drum to go further on and (hopefully) overlap the shoes enough to give an idea where you are.
Bearing needs to be in to check for clean rotation and not binding.
 
#35 ·
Sorry to burst your bubble,, but if the release arm to your handbrake is not fully back,, you will have very poor braking on the back wheels.
The arm needs to be all the way back, before you can adjust the brake shoes,,
You will wear away your brake shoes very quickly, and your rear wheel cylinder pistons will be travelling to far, giving a high chance of premature seal wear, and raising the risk of fluid seeping past the seals.
 
#36 ·
sorry ours, not to sure if i understand what you are saying.

the release arm, thats the handbrake right. so i slacken the brake cable that attaches to the right rear wheel. pull the handbrake right up? then adjust the brake cable?
 
#37 ·
The lever inside your drum, must go to its stop, (piece of metal on the lever stops the lever going any farther back this will make contact with the brake shoe ). If this is now on its stop, then you can use the knurled adjuster to adjust your brake shoes,( the adjuster just below the wheel cylinder).
Then, you can adjust your handbrake cable, to remove any freeplay in the handbrake..
If that lever does not go back, then you must undo your hand brake cable adjuster,,
If you have not found the adjuster, you need to lower one side of the heat shield, above the exhaust , to get at the adjuster, which is in the middle of the car,

Otherwise, everything you have done, ( to put it bluntly) will be a waste of time.
 
#38 ·
hello,

i fitted the hub, finally. really tricky getting it on and i dont know if it has gone on straight. when i turn the hub, it does seem to bind(?) as in, i spin the hub and it spins about half turn. it feels like the hub is wonky. i am not sure of the best route now. should i "tap"(whack) it with a mallet to get it straight? or pay someone else? i don't want to pay out any more and i cant help but think that it will cost around £100 or more.
 
#39 ·
Hate to ask but could you remove drum and post up a photo of the shoe arrangement again.... as it is now.

Really, the amount of "bind" should be fairly even.
A little bit stiffer in one place to others is common due to slight distortions (dead on perfect is rarely achieved) but free to stop doesn't sound right.

Or a video of the rotation may be an easier place to start.
 
#40 ·
hello

here is a quick video.

https://youtu.be/0iecu1lJem0

removing the hub was ok, then refitting the hub scared me. i pushed the hub on and the outer bearing fitting came off!
i pressed it back in, then put the hub on using an axle nut to press the outer bearing fitting back in and press on the hub. i think that it is on full now. i also think that it is fitted properly. though the brakes are worrying me now. i have an mot coming up, the mechanics is just round the corner.

thanks

simon
 
#41 ·
That level of spin-bind doesn't seem bad, I've had far worse :wink2:
Will likely centralise a little more if you push the foot brake a couple of times.

BUT.... is that the arrangement now ?
If so, that spring underneath the cylinder.
Should be attached to both shoes.
(look back at the picture Ralph posted earlier)
At the moment seems it is floating in the wind by the RH shoe
 
#43 ·
BUT.... is that the arrangement now ?
If so, that spring underneath the cylinder.
Should be attached to both shoes.
(look back at the picture Ralph posted earlier)
At the moment seems it is floating in the wind by the RH shoe
I think so too!

Not done Clio shoes TBH but on others I have had to hook BOTH springs onto BOTH shoes FIRST, then persuade them to go on as a pair while linked together by the springs, usually using big screwdrivers as levers... not possible to put the springs on afterwards, cos the hooks will not go through the holes.
 
#42 ·
If you are inexperienced working at brakes it can be difficult to reassemble them unless you have good photos or diagrams to help you. Renault using two differing makes of brake shoes, etc doesn't help either.

In the interests fo safety it may be prudent to seek professional help.

Do remember brakes are like your best friends - you miss them most when they ain't around.
 
#44 ·
hello

sorry for the confusion but that top spring actually fits behind the shoe. it is connected.
i fit the hub and tyre. i drove round the block waiting for the wheel to fall off!
i pressed the brake pedal and very very spongey. i have to fit the left rear brake shoe and then sort the spongey bit.
thanks for the help so far. not to sure about how to test if the hub is fitted right. i keep thinking that the bearing will fall apart.

thanks

simon
 
#45 ·
Pedal will be soft just after new pads / shoes installed, until they have bedded in. Maybe have to allow a couple of weeks!
 
#46 ·
And may be adjustment.
How does the travel on the handbrake feel and does it lock the wheel?
Could need bleeding.... shouldn't if you haven't opened the hydraulic circuit but..... If you pump the brakes do they go firm?

Bearing won't come apart as long as retaining nut torqued up properly. The bearing fit in the hub and on the shaft squares it up.

Do the other wheel ASAP else you could find imbalanced in the wet.
 
#47 ·
hello

i replaced the left rear shoes and that was much easier than the right side. i fit the brakes and put on the wheel. im still getting the same problem. i press the pedal and it goes to the floor. i checked the fluid level and it was in the middle of the max and min. the handbrake feels hard to pull. it goes to about four notches. i have watched some videos on youtube and they mention the master brake cylinder.
that would cost about £62 for a new one.

any advice on this.

thanks

simon:smile2:
 
#50 ·
hello

i did loose some brake fluid when changing the wheel cylinder. i can pump up the brake. when driving if i hit the pedal hard it does have a hard braking effect. when i press slowly its as though the brakes are not working at all.
when changing the wheel cylinder, i removed the brake fluid cap and placed a plastic bag over it to try and stop the flow of brake fluid. apparently this can cause air to get in and damage the master cylinder. i didnt see any fluid leaking from either rear wheel. there is a small cap on the new wheel cylinder breather valve. should this be removed?
 
#53 ·
hello

i did loose some brake fluid when changing the wheel cylinder. i can pump up the brake............ there is a small cap on the new wheel cylinder breather valve. should this be removed?
Forget any worries about the master cylinder, it will be fine.

From what you have said, the brake system needs bleeding.
What you are calling a breather valve is the bleed nipple on that wheel.
There will be a similar one on the other back wheel and one on each of the front wheels.
The plastic caps simply stop them getting dirty/clogged.

Air has got into the system. Hydraulic fluid is not compressible. Air is.
With NO air, the fluid acts as a solid object, transmitting force from the master cylinder to the cylinders on each wheel.
With air, a chunk of that force compresses the air, the result is more travel on the pedal. Extreme cases and you can run out of travel before the brakes bite.

They need bleeding.
You will need assistance from someone you trust to follow instructions or a powered bleed system.
May well be the time to go into any of the fast fit centres and ask them to do it.

Find a how to video on you tube to get a general idea then decide.
We'll advise if you want to do it yourself, first time I did my own brakes I think I made as many mistakes and we learn from them...hopefully before we kill ourselves.

If you could answer LD's questions would help us know if possible other errors.
 
#52 ·
If you look at the pic I posted half way down the leaver that works the hand brake is
a lump that lump is a return stop and should rest on the shoe yours does not seem to
I think you need to loosen the hand brake adjuster off till it does, fit the spring that on
yours does not seem to be fitted then put the drum back, then if the auto adjuster is
working ok with hand brake off press the brakes a few times and that should adjust
them up once that's done adjust the hand brake till it starts to come on after about 4 clicks,
to be honest I think you need to get someone that knows what they are doing to sort
it as you real'y should not be taking chances with brakes.
 
#55 ·
hello

i have adjusted the little bit of metal that sticks out and sits against the rear shoe by slackening off the handbrake cable. i have done this on both sides. then adjusted the self adjusting thing on the drum brake. both drums move but only slightly. they do move by hand but provide some drag. they do not spin freely. i then tightened the handbrake cable. the handbrake comes up four notches and stops. the hand brake stops the car from moving without a problem but the pedal is still soft.
that is as far as i have gotten. i have to get some brake fluid to bleed the brakes. there is a one man bleeder video on youtube that shows how to do this.
this is as far as i have gotten. i think after this if it is not working i will have to get a mobile mechanic. i just want to avoid spending lots of money.

thanks for all your help and advice. i do appreciate it.

thanks
simon:smile2:
 
#56 ·
Okay Simon
So far so good and does sound as if bleeding is the only bit left.

I'm going to suggest something different as this is something you need to get right rather then read a list of instructions and not take it all in.

Post up a link to the one man bleed kit pls, let's check if it is suitable or if there is a better one to look at.

Break down how you intend to bleed the brakes into simple instructions, a bullet list.
We can then comment.

Doing it this way will help get it firmly in your mind, telling others how to do something, really does make you understand it better.

If we need to, we will put up instructions but try writing them yourself first.

When you get the brake fluid, make sure you get a 6 sided (Hex) socket to suit the bleed nipple (what you called a breather) or a hex ring spanner.... I think it's 8mm but check me on that.
Over time they can get tight and are brass.
Very easily rounded off... the six sided socket or ring gives you the best chance of loosening them.
Unless you already have one :d
 
#57 ·
hello,

this is one of the videos that shows how to bleed on your own.



there are videos that show how to make the bleed kit.

you put the tube over the bleed valve and pump the brake pedal. it should force the air out. topping up the brake fluid every few pumps. i will start with the brakes furthest from the master brake cylinder working toward the master brake cylinder.

thanks

simon
 
#58 ·
That method works.
What he hasn't shown is that you need to let the fluid fill the pipe before pumping or you will pull air back in.

Ideally, you should have a non return valve in the pipe to prevent this.
Various one man kits on ebay have this in the pipe.
One example
VIZIBLEED ONE MAN BRAKE & CLUTCH BLEEDING KIT CAR MOTORBIKE BLEED SET ECO BOTTLE | eBay

Another option, which I have used and works well is the Gunson powered bleed kit
Gunson | G4062 | Eezibleed Kit
More expensive but will last forever.
 
#62 ·
That method works.
What he hasn't shown is that you need to let the fluid fill the pipe before pumping or you will pull air back in.

Ideally, you should have a non return valve in the pipe to prevent this.
Various one man kits on ebay have this in the pipe.
One example
VIZIBLEED ONE MAN BRAKE & CLUTCH BLEEDING KIT CAR MOTORBIKE BLEED SET ECO BOTTLE | eBay

Another option, which I have used and works well is the Gunson powered bleed kit
Gunson | G4062 | Eezibleed Kit
More expensive but will last forever.
Also helps to have the jar / bottle higher than the nipple, air bubbles will always go up, so not back to the nipple.

HTH
 
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#61 ·
You want the drum to be able to turn, but with a very slight bind,,.
Do the same on both sides of the car....
Now when this is done, readjust your handbrake cable,..
To do this ,, use the adjusting nut, ....Keep tightening the nut,, (wheel still raised off the ground) hand brake not applied ,,,until you can feel the wheel starting to bind,,.
 
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