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post #14 of (permalink) Old 6th April 2008 Thread Starter
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Heh, I've just 'refreshed' the thread prior to posting the following and you're making me nervous. The old girl's given three years of sterling service and is approaching her 78,000th birthday. I'm only asking for another couple of years from her: 9-10k a year and yes, sadly, half of that distance is made up of fifty or more two mile journeys each week.


Sorry, can't compose a nice list of numbered questions. Too much child activity going on around me.

The basic aim is a car that works. I have no interest in the car's performance (which is just as well: it's a 1.6 Scenic, after all). I would sooner spend an extra penny a mile on petrol than spend 200 more than I have to on the car now. I've no objection to pouring in half a litre of oil once a month. I believe spalling is a town in Lincolnshire.

The gasket didn't look very healthy, but there was no obvious route between water and oil . Similarly, there was no obvious route between oil and 'the outside'. So I guess the next step is to get the head checked out for warping (it appears to have been running 'dry' for some time, after all). Presumably I need to clean it back to metal before taking it in for measurement. Is that just gasket remover and emery cloth?

Pressure testing is 35, which seems pretty cheap for peace of mind. Am I right in thinking that I should leave the valves in for this? If it's found to be warped I'll have it skimmed, despite Renault's recommendation.

In terms of preparing the block's gasket face, again can I get away with gasket remover and emery cloth? Was going to take pipecleaners to the head bolt threads etc.

The dipstick comes in very handy for the rusty sludge in the block's waterways. I can't flush it in its current state without getting water everywhere. I know there are some heavy duty rust shifters designed for car cooling systems: would it make sense to 'plug' the system at the waterpump, fill the engine block water channels with something evil and chemical, agitate with the dipstick and leave overnight? Or should I just ignore it until the car is reassembled? I intend to remove the radiator and flush with a hose: again, would plugging and 'soaking' with a rust shifter prior to reassembly be worthwhile?

On to reassembly...

I'd already bought a new water pump before I realised that a 'timing belt kit' included both pump and tensioner. My water pump came with a new bolt for the tensioner; is it really necessary to replace the tensioner itself? It's just a 'round metal thing with an off centre bolt hole' rather than a sprung jobby. I'm also troubled that the water pump came with a 'card' gasket. There was no gasket on the previous pump, and the Haynes doesn't mention using one (says Loctite 518 or similar). My instinct is to chuck the gasket...

In addition to changing the three belts, pump and thermostat I'm wondering about changing the water temp gauge sender. As the photo shows it's in an area that's scaled up, and to clean it properly I'd have to remove it which would mean a new seal anyway. Oh, and I need to replace the infamous MAP/inlet hose, which is broken. Anything else while I'm there?

Post-rebuild it appears to be a case of one if not two loads of cheap engine oil . Not so sure about the cooling system, though: I'd reverse flush prior to restarting, but after that should I actually run the car up to temperature on a cleaning agent? Any recommendations on flushing products/procedures would be most welcome.

I think that's it. Fire away!
Currently in mojolicious's garage:
2001 Ford Focus 1.9TD(d)i Estate in the incredibly luxurious 'LX' trim :)

Last edited by mojolicious; 6th April 2008 at 04:55 PM.
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