Generally there are two types of MAP sensor one type fits directly into the inlet manifold and the other is mounted independent of the engine connected by a vacuum pipe to the inlet manifold.
Don't have the car in front of me, so to speak, but I believe I know of what you speak and they're both in place.
Will sort out the throttle housing (lack of) gasket today, but isn't it the case that an inlet leak will cause revs to rise rather than fall?
750rpm isn't the end of the world (believe it should be 820rpm) but I suspect 700rpm would make life tricky when pulling away. Especially when you've got big fat feet like me.
I take it you checked the valve clearances before starting the engine. With adjustable type tappets you normally need to re-adjust them after a few miles driving.
Mr Haynes didn't mention checking clearances prior re refit/restart. The git.
What sort of time would that take as a garage job, then? There's only eight of those valve-y things to be set.
Regarding the heater situation Renaults are notorious for air locking and it may take numerous attempts at bleeding the system to ensure good circulation.
I'm trying to think if the heater matrix sits above the level of the expansion tank filler cap? Car was still on axle stands when it was filled, too... Might try the 'bottomless plastic bottle upside down in expansion tank' trick. I've got a two part Holt RadFlush to go through there, so it looks like half the day's going to be taken up with removing and refitting Jubilee clips. Joy.
I'm using is Shell Helix Super 15W40 at a very reasonable £16 for five litres. The Shell website suggests the
of choice would be a 10W40. If I remember correctly the owner's handbook gives a choice of both the above plus another spec. Any thoughts on 'the one'? Was planning on buying another couple of litre bottles and going for a second