Renault Laguna I - Phase 2 - Heating and Cooling - Heater Fan 1,2,& 3 speed not working + FIX
Hi Just thought I would share with you how I have fixed a Laguna heater blower that worked in speed 4 but not in 1, 2 or 3. The root of the problem is there is a device called a Thermal Fuse in the circuit for the 3 lower speeds but not for the top speed. Once they blow they have to be replaced. These special fuses can be obtained from somewhere like RS Components. Have a look at:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx...u=y&criteria=Thermal Fuses&doy=15m1&worldid=3
This is what the fuses look like. You would have to check that is has the current carrying capacity of the one fitted to the resistor pack which is 16 Amps at 240 Volts or 25A at 120V. I bought mine from RS some years ago, picking up a couple at the time, I knew it would come in handy eventually!
Also look at :
http://www.atconline.com/microtemp-detail.htm
It is located in the resistor pack that is inserted into the airflow, the Haynes manual calls this the "Heater Blower Motor Resistor/Control Unit". Note the Haynes manual says this unit on a car with Air con cannot be renewed seperately - correct, but it can be repaired! I have done the same job on both types now!
1. Extract the unit, on the aircon you have to leave the unit dangling on it's wiring harness.
2. remove the aliminium shield by bending the lugs straight and gently prising it off.
3. identify the fuse and snip it off leaving the legs attached to the terminal posts(Important this otherwise you will not have anything to connect the fuse to!). You can gently bend the curly resistors out of the way , putting them back once finished.
4. :steam: Now comes the fiddly bit! As the fuse cannot be soldered in (it would 'blow' because of the heat) you have to fit the fuse by mechanical means. I used some small plastic terminal block ( 5 amp size , I think), sometimes called chocolate block, with the plastic cut off. This leaves you with a small brass tube with 2 terminal screws in it. Arrange the tubes and the fuse so that the fuse is in circuit but not touching any other part of the circuit eg the curly resistors, It doesn't matter which way round it goes!
5. put the shield back on, bending the tags over again and double check to see there are no undesireable shorts anywhere
6. Put the unit back in connect up and away you go.
I am an electrical engineer so found this a fairly easy task but any competent DIYer should be able to save them selves £50, the fuse costs about 50p
HTH
Sorry meant to add: my fuse was marked
MICROTEMP This is the manufacturer
TFDAGG
G5A01 This is the part number
TF110C This is it's 'blow' temp ie 110 degrees C
Hi Just thought I would share with you how I have fixed a Laguna heater blower that worked in speed 4 but not in 1, 2 or 3. The root of the problem is there is a device called a Thermal Fuse in the circuit for the 3 lower speeds but not for the top speed. Once they blow they have to be replaced. These special fuses can be obtained from somewhere like RS Components. Have a look at:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx...u=y&criteria=Thermal Fuses&doy=15m1&worldid=3
This is what the fuses look like. You would have to check that is has the current carrying capacity of the one fitted to the resistor pack which is 16 Amps at 240 Volts or 25A at 120V. I bought mine from RS some years ago, picking up a couple at the time, I knew it would come in handy eventually!
Also look at :
http://www.atconline.com/microtemp-detail.htm
It is located in the resistor pack that is inserted into the airflow, the Haynes manual calls this the "Heater Blower Motor Resistor/Control Unit". Note the Haynes manual says this unit on a car with Air con cannot be renewed seperately - correct, but it can be repaired! I have done the same job on both types now!
1. Extract the unit, on the aircon you have to leave the unit dangling on it's wiring harness.
2. remove the aliminium shield by bending the lugs straight and gently prising it off.
3. identify the fuse and snip it off leaving the legs attached to the terminal posts(Important this otherwise you will not have anything to connect the fuse to!). You can gently bend the curly resistors out of the way , putting them back once finished.
4. :steam: Now comes the fiddly bit! As the fuse cannot be soldered in (it would 'blow' because of the heat) you have to fit the fuse by mechanical means. I used some small plastic terminal block ( 5 amp size , I think), sometimes called chocolate block, with the plastic cut off. This leaves you with a small brass tube with 2 terminal screws in it. Arrange the tubes and the fuse so that the fuse is in circuit but not touching any other part of the circuit eg the curly resistors, It doesn't matter which way round it goes!
5. put the shield back on, bending the tags over again and double check to see there are no undesireable shorts anywhere
6. Put the unit back in connect up and away you go.
I am an electrical engineer so found this a fairly easy task but any competent DIYer should be able to save them selves £50, the fuse costs about 50p
HTH
Sorry meant to add: my fuse was marked
MICROTEMP This is the manufacturer
TFDAGG
G5A01 This is the part number
TF110C This is it's 'blow' temp ie 110 degrees C