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Righto Bob, thanks for the pics, you are catching this at just the right time. You will need to set aside a day for this (do both rear arches (as they are the same age, after all...).
You will need:
- 2 axle stands
- wire brush (or rough sandpaper circa 80-grit)
- 1 roll of masking tape
- at least 250mls of smoothrite (black)
- a 1/2" paintbrush
- a cotton bud
- Jack the car up, removing both rear wheels, and leave the car supported on the axle stands.
- using the wire brush/abrasive paper, remove all the rust, but be careful not to expand the area into the part of the arch which can be seen from the roadside. (you skip this step for the wheelarch which is fine).
- apply kurust to the area which was rusty (with a cotton bud), and whilst this is drying, move to the sound wheelarch and carefully mask off the exposed parts of the panel, which you don't want to get paint on, and apply a coat of smoothrite (not too much, as it drips, but ensure you cover the inside lip of the arch).
- by now, the other side is ready for the same treatment, so just repeat the masking off/painting process as before, and leave the wheels off overnight.
Ideally, this should be done on a dry day, and wear old clothes! The paint will become tacky after around 24hrs (so no jetwashes), but will gradually harden through after around 5-7 days depending on the air temp.
Hope that helps.
NOTE to Stef - waxoyl doesn't dry, its meant to remain viscous for as long as possible. This is to allow it to flow into every nook & cranny.
gonna print that out, will try this next weekend if the weather is good. need to catch the rust on mine before it gets any worse.
I know waxoyl isnt meant to 'dry' but its still just as wet as it was when i started brushing it on. says on the tin it will cure but remain tacky? is still very runny and ive even applied it very thin.
Currently in stef123's garage:
2006 Ford Mondeo ST TDCI